Live Crickets Selling, Care-Breeding-Feeding African Cichlid Fish

Female Live Crickets Raising-Care-Breeding and Feeding-for African Cichlid Fish

Breeding crickets

If you are interested in breeding cichlids or koi than plan on feeding your fish live food and crickets are one of the best live insects for feeding any fish, bait, and for profit.  I put this together for the small grower who wants to get started with crickets but doesn't want to spend a fortune on equipment. You can get started with your cricket breeding with some odds and ends that you can find around your house.

Let's start with which cricket can be raised in confinement.  The cricket that is raised and sold in pet stores is the Gray Cricket, Acheta Domestica.  This particular cricket is easily bred and raised in captivity and can become a great source of profit for you the grower.

To start, all that is needed is some sort of container to act as brooder/incubator.  The container must be large enough to provide room, but not so large that it cannot be heated. 

You can use a garbage can, a Rubbermaid container, a wooden box, an aquarium, or any type of container that will allow free movement, air flow, heating, and room for all of the components necessary to successfully breed crickets.

The first question to ask is how many crickets do you want to breed; the answer to this question will determine the size of the container you will need and how many breeder crickets you will need.  There are male and female crickets. 

Each female will lay about 100 eggs in her lifetime, and she will lay about 5-10 per day until 100 is reached.  They sometimes lay more or less, but you can bet on approximately 100.  If you want to have 1000 crickets, you will have to start with at least 10 female crickets and 10 male crickets.

You will also have to provide space for 1000 crickets.  One thousand crickets take up a great deal more space than 20 crickets, so you have to plan ahead;  a 20-gallon Rubbermaid container or a 20-gallon fish tank.

Cricket Breeding Set up

How do you distinguish the males from the females?  The female cricket has 3 long extrusions on her back and fully developed wings.   The male cricket has two extrusions.  In the female, the extrusion is called the ovipositor.

This is the sexual organ of the female cricket and is what is used to lay eggs. The female will stick the ovipositor into the soil and lay eggs.  The ovipositor will deposit the eggs beneath the surface of the soil or bedding material you will furnish to house the eggs before hatching and female cricket.

Back To The Box

The container you will use must be escape-proof from the inside and out.  You do not want critters getting in as much as you do not want crickets escaping.  The enemies of the cricket are numerous:  centipedes, millipedes, spiders, and a whole host of insects find crickets an attractive addition to their daily menu.  Crickets are excellent climbers and jumpers, so the container has to be closed on all sides.

The container must also provide air and heat; crickets need fresh air to stay healthy and to breed.  The best way to provide air is to use some sort of cover that allows the passage of air but one that doesn't have holes. 

A piece of cloth secured over the top can provide air and no escape for your crickets or entrance for the enemies of the crickets.  Use of cheese cloth, an old shirt, or any old cloth will work.  Try to boil it first so that any bacteria in the cloth are killed before use.

Once you have decided upon a container, your next problem will be to figure-out how you will provide heat for the crickets.  Crickets breed and grow best in a temperature of about 88 degrees.  They will breed at lower temperatures, but you will have a higher mortality of the young and a lower egg lay rate. 

There are a number of ways to heat the crickets.  You can keep the crickets in a warm room.  For instance, you can keep the cricket bin near a furnace or other heating source. 

Another Way is to Heat the Bin.

You can do this by using a heating element like the type used for heating reptiles, or you can heat the bin using a light bulb.  In the case of a bulb, you have to make some provisions so that the bin does not get too hot and kill the crickets or start a fire. 

A Thermostat Can Be Added to the Bulb

This will cost a couple of dollars, but you will be able to set the thermostat on 88 Degrees and get optimum growth from your crickets.  I prefer using a warm room or using a reptile type heater.  This will minimize the chance of a fire.

Choose your heating method and then gather up the rest of your supplies.  You will need a food dish.  A shallow dish will work well.  A cap or cover from a peanut butter container works well.  You will also need a water dish. 

Crickets should not have access to an open water dish.  An open dish will cause drowning, bacteria growth and will sour the entire culture.  Try to give the crickets water in a different way.  There is a new product available that will allow water in gel form.  This stops many of the problems that used to pervade breeding and raising crickets. 

You Can Also Set Up a Wick Watering System.

This type of system allows the crickets to get water from a dish through a sponge or cotton. If you use this method, you must remember to change the cotton or sponge every couple of days so that you will not have a build-up of bacteria.  

 

 You can also give water another way, which is the way that we recommend, by using a slice of fruit or potato every couple of days.  The crickets will get water and food from the slice.

Use Chicken Mash as a Food for Your Crickets

Egg layer mash works well. Heat the mash in an oven to kill bacteria before giving it to the crickets.  The container should also be cleaned really well so all bacteria is killed.

You will also need some sort of substrate so the crickets can lay eggs in it. There are two ways of doing this.  One way is to place removable egg laying containers in the main containers. 

These containers can be something like a margarine container or some sort of soup container.  The other way is to place a substrate of soil or peat moss. on the bottom of the entire container so the crickets can lay eggs on the floor, in the sand. 

Then, you can use the entire container as an incubator.  I like this way of doing it because you do not have to remove small containers all the time and place them into incubators. 

The problem of doing it this way is that you have to use a different container for each generation, or you will not be able to easily size your crickets for resale.  If you use a separate container with the substrate on the floor, you will have to date the container, so you can ascertain the age of the crickets. 

If you keep detailed records like -Date Started and Date Babies Started Hatching, you will have a system of keeping all one size together and will be better able to offer them for resale based upon size.  You will not sell many mixed size crickets. 

Cricket customers are buying crickets to feed pets, fish, or to go fishing.  They have needs for specific sizes, and if you can’t give them those sizes, you will not sell crickets.

After your crickets have laid eggs in the substrate for a few days, you can move the breeders to a second container to lay eggs in there, or leave them for the full ten days and then remove the breeders to feed pets, to go fishing, or for resale. 

After two days, you will want to remove the breeders so that they do not eat any crickets that have started to hatch.  Breeders sometimes eat the babies if they can catch them.  Removing the breeders stops this and ensures you will have all one size growing together.

Keep the babies in the brooder/incubator until half grown.  Then, move them to a storage container.  A sweater box works well as a storage container.  You can place the container in a cooler room to slow growth and development.  At this stage, the crickets do not need the sand but do need food and water.

Using chicken mash and fruit and vegetable slices will help provide these needs.  Do not allow the vegetables to get stale or moldy.  Replace the slices every couple of days. That's it for care and breeding. 

You will now need to sell your crickets.  Pet shops and bait shops buy large amounts of crickets.  There are companies that raise and sell only crickets and do extremely well. 

You can market your crickets to local pet shops.  In the year 2000, crickets will go for about five cents to ten cents each.  This is a great price and can make you a great deal of money. 

Call pet and bait shops in the area and ask them if they would be interested in trying your crickets.  Explain the plusses of buying crickets from a local breeder, such as:  no shipping costs, no shipping strain on the crickets and the ability of the shop owner to have you service their needs right away.

You can also look into placing local advertisements telling customers that you have crickets.  Advertise specials in free local papers or low cost papers. Find out what the shops charge per cricket and advertise a lower price.  You will get buyers.  You can easily earn $10,000 per year in a basement or spare room.

Finally, shipping crickets is easy.  A one foot square box can hold 1,000 crickets.  Make sure that the box is taped securely on all sides.  In one of the sides, cut a rectangle with a knife and staple and glue a screen in the box so the crickets can get air during shipping. 

If you are shipping in the winter to cold areas, you may need to add heat packs to the boxes.  These are usually 48 hour packs and will get your crickets where they are going with enough heat to keep them healthy. 

You can ship the crickets through USPS Priority Mail, Air Mail, UPS, or Overnight.  We ship Priority and Air Mail and have had great results.  As of now, there are not any regulations against shipping crickets. However, that may change some day.

Also read  How To Raise White Worms For Your Cichlids and Koi Fish September 23, 2011
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Cichlids -What Equipment Do I Need To Become A Fish Breeder?

Cichlids -What Equipment Do I Need To Become A Fish Breeder?

Breeding fish is a very complex, very tricky thing to try. If you've decided to try and breed fish on your own, you are going to need to buy a few essential pieces of kit. The basic set up of a fish breeder comprises of the same as with any other aspect of fish keeping.

You'll need a tank plus filters, lights and all the usual. However, if you're going to breed fish successfully, you'll require much more than just the basics. For example, you will need to have either an additional tank to breed the fish in, or a special fry tank for the safety of the young fish. It is important that they be separated from the adult fish until they're big enough to fend for themselves. But this second tank is just one of the necessary considerations.

Many people start off keeping fresh water cichlids in their aquarium because of their beauty. With the variety of colors and shapes, it's about as close to a saltwater fish tank that you can get, without the salt or the upkeep of salt water tank!

 

But before long, most people become interested in breeding cichlids, rather than just having them. Quite often this is due to the cichlids breeding without any intervention on the aquarist's part, who thereafter becomes interested in keeping the next batch of fry.

By and large, the majority of African cichlids are mouthbrooders. This means that the eggs are actually brooded in one of the parents' mouth - typically the female cichlid's mouth. Other types of cichlids (shelldwellers for example) will be written and considered in other articles. But how do you get your cichlids to breed? How can you protect the female, and ensure that the eggs hatch successfully? And then how do you protect the young from hungry predators?

The first step in breeding cichlids is to obtain fish that will breed. While this may seem obvious, it's not as simple as obtaining a male and female of the same species of tropical fish. With African cichlids, it's much better to obtain a harem, quite often referred to as a breeding colony. If you only have a pair, the male may be too aggressive towards the one available female, resulting in stress and potential death.

When you have your breeding colony, you'll want to give them a good environment. Have plenty of caves, rocks, shelves and crevices that the cichlids can choose as their territory and breeding ground. Don't bother with aquarium plants; they'll only be removed by the cichlids!

 

To get your African cichlids in breeding condition, you need to feed them well. I've always found spirulina flakes to be excellent quality food, as well as the live earthworm, white worm or crickets and shrimp.

When the fish are ready to breed, you'll notice the male chase the female and do a mating dance, which consists of shimmying in front of the female. The female will drop eggs, and then proceed to pick them up in her mouth. The male will fertilize them. It is theorized that this is where the 'egg spots' come into play. The egg spots are the small round yellowish spots on the male's anal fin. Many feel that when the male shimmies, these look like eggs that the female hasn't yet collected. She attempts to, and the eggs that are in her mouth are able to be fertilized by the male.

The process will be repeated a number of times, until the female loses interest (just like people!). If the eggs weren't properly fertilized, they will be disposed of. If they're fertilized, they will be kept until the eggs are hatched and the yolk sacks have disappeared. This can take from three to five weeks.

If you want to keep the baby cichlids, I strongly suggest that you remove the female to a comfortable tank for the female cichlid a place of her own. This can be a smaller tank, with some rockwork for her to hide in. You don't need to feed her, although when the eggs hatch (you'll see the wigglers in her mouth) you may want to toss in a very small amount of flake food. She may pick at it for the sake of the fry. There will be a follow-up article explaining how to strip the female cichlid, a process necessary if she won't release the eggs or if she eats them.

To feed the babies, you can crush up some flake food into a fine powder. Take a little, mix it with water. Then suck it into a straw of piece of aquarium tubing. Then insert it into the water near the swimming cichlid fry, and release it for them to eat.

Allow the female cichlid to feed back to health before putting her back in the tank. Also, try to keep the babies with cichlids of the same size, lest they become live cichlid food!

Firstly, the smaller baby fry tank will require a good filter unit. Generally, it is thought best to stick to using air powered filters with a basic sponge filter so that the small fry can't get sucked into it. Bigger mechanical filter systems occasionally suck in the fry and cause them to get stuck inside the filter. You obviously wouldn't want that to happen.

If you are serious about breeding fish, you will have to read up on the specialist fish foods that have been developed especially for small fry. This special fish food is made from different ingredients from standard fish food and is especially formulated to nourish developing fish. It is specially formulated to be easily eaten and digested by the fry and to provide them with all the nutrients they need to grow and develop at a healthy rate. Once again, it's essential to keep them apart from bigger fish for quite some time, just in case the bigger fish start to see the babies as food.

Breeding fish can be a painstaking and complicated hobby. However, with the right equipment, a good level of knowledge and a little determination, it can also be a rewarding and thoroughly enjoyable experience.

Looking for the very best fish tank accessories on the market? Look no further than http://petsuppliesfishworld.com where you'll find a massive collection of helpful tools that'll make life very easy for your fish.