Live Plants for Cichlids-Aquarium Plants-Care-Information for Floaing Plants

Floating Plants

Floating plants do serve useful and integral purpose in the aquarium unfortunately some aquarists regard floating plants as unwanted pests. However floating plants do perform a effective principle for aquariums.  They offer shade for fish from the glare of the aquarium lights, and can provide a sanctuary for newly born young fish; if there are any Gourami in the aquarium they utilize fragments of the floating aquarium plants when building their bubble-nests.

 

In the aquarium and surface natural waters; the top of the water and surface above it is the best place for light and gas exchange. Most plants, even when rooted in the substrate, try to send their leaves and stem close to the surface to take advantage of this prime aquatic real estate. Some plants have evolved to spend their entire lives floating in the water; several have even given up their roots finding them to be unnecessary in this environment.

Floating Plants in the Aquarium are Useful

Floating plants in particular for breeding purposes and providing hiding places for fry. They can also be used to shade parts of the aquarium if needed. And they can be quite useful if you want plants in a bare bottom tank. Several floating plants are commonly found for sale for both aquariums and ponds with varying degrees of ease of growth and usefulness for the aquarium.

Azolla

Azolla is a floating fern. There are about 6 living species in the genus, though more than 25 species have been recognized in fossils. Azolla is used in ponds, (if you have Koi think about these) and can be difficult to grow in the aquarium. Low water movement, nutrient rich waters, and high lighting are recommended for their growth.

1.     Azolla caroliniana,

2.     Filiculoides,

3.     Mexicana are native to some parts of North America.

4.     A pinnnata is considered an invasive plant on the federal noxious weeds list.

5.     Many Azolla have become noxious weeds in different countries across the world.

Unlike many plants that get in to the noxious weed list, Azolla are actually quite useful. Azolla have an interesting symbiotic relationship with a blue-green algae Anabaena azollae. Because of this relationship and the nitrogen fixing ability of the blue-green algae, Azolla are used as a green fertilizer. They are also supposed to be nutritious with a high level of protein and are used for livestock and even eaten by people.

Ceratophyllum

 

Hornwort, Ceratophyllum

Hornwort is a very common feathery leaved aquarium plant that will grow well in many aquariums. Hornwort also stands up to many fish that may have tendencies to include salads in their diets.

Hornwort is unique in that it will never develop roots. You can put the plant in bunches in the back of your tank and it can look nice that way but the plant will roots just won’t ever form and if you try to place any part of hornwort under the substrate, that portion will die.

Hornwort can grow under lower and higher light levels. In lower light it will be brighter green and thinner. In higher light the plant gets bushier and can get red tints particularly in the stem. In fact hornwort is usually very easy to grow in the aquarium and pretty much anywhere else. Though a native of North America, this plant has been introduced in many parts of the world where it’s become a problematic weed.

The Ceratophyllaceae have their own family and its relationship to other plants is still undetermined. They seem to be confusing plants for botanists, the number of different species isn’t certain either. Earlier sources argued at 1 or 2, newer sources list 6 or 7; but over 30 have been described, though many of those are almost certainly the same highly variable plants.

Eichhornia crassipes

Water hyacinth is a beautiful flowering plant, originally from South America and used mainly in ponds. E. azurea is listed on the federal noxious weed list but E. crassipes is listed as a noxious weed in many states and countries. It’s one of the most problematic of the invasive weeds in the world. It can fully cover a lake or pond from shore to shore.

Water hyacinth isn’t a practical plant for most aquariums. The plant can get quite tall if it does well and it usually doesn’t inside anyway. Considering its invasiveness, possible illegality in many states, and the fact it isn’t a practical plant in most aquariums, I would not suggest using it.

Lemnaceae family

Lemnaceae family-duckweed

The duckweeds and their close relatives are some of the most well known of aquatic plants, seeming to occur just about everywhere there’s water worldwide. Often duckweeds can become a pest in the home aquarium, but they can also be useful and aquarists have used them pretty much since there has been aquariums.

The duckweed plants are all small but come in several sizes of very small. The smallest are the Wolffia. These tiny plants are the smallest known flowering plants in the world with tiny leaves 1 to 1.5 millimeters. Wolffia are sometimes called water meal because of their small size. Unlike the larger duckweeds, Wolffia don’t have roots. This is a neat plant to have in the aquarium but very hard to keep because most fish seem to think their on the menu and ypur fish will eat them

Wolffia

The most common and middle sized duckweeds are the genus Lemna which have more than a dozen species. Duckweed is usually very easy to grow in the aquarium though I have had tanks where it just didn’t want to grow; some sources indicate this can mean there are nutritional deficiencies in the water.

Duckweed can look different in different aquariums, sometimes having very long roots hanging down in the tank, in other tanks fish may nibble on the roots keeping them very short. Sometimes duckweed may drop its roots making a mess of the bottom of the tank. Some aquarists use string or other barriers at the top of the tank to try to keep duckweed roped in to a specific area. The best way to control duckweed, if you don’t have a duckweed eating fish, is to remove the excess plants by hand.

Larger duckweeds include Spirodela and Landoltia. These are similar to the Lemna. Often in the wild and sometimes in the aquarium you will end up with several different types of duckweed growing in the same place.

Limnobium

Frogbit is another plant common for ponds that can grow in the aquarium. There are two species that may be available L. laevigatum, from Central and South America and L. spongia from North America. The plants are very similar in appearance. Both look like very large duckweed but they aren’t closely related. In fact they are from the family Hydrocharitaceae and are related to such diverse looking plants as Blyxa, Najas, Elodea and Vallisneria.

 

Frogbit will need good lighting to grow in the aquarium. If it likes your tank it can grow quickly and will have to be regularly thinned. Daughter plants grow on stolons to the sides of the plants. Also remember these plants can have very long roots which in most aquariums will easily reach to the substrate where they will be happy to anchor. Remember that under these plants it will be shady. Be sure to plan where they frogbit will sit on the surface of the aquarium accordingly.

Amazon Frogbit

Pistia stratiotes

Water lettuce is another plant used often in ponds. As the common name implies this plant looks like a head of lettuce sitting on top of the water with roots hanging below. Like water hyacinth you have to consider the height of the plant out of the water when considering it for the aquarium. It would probably work better in an open tank than one with a cover. This is not an easy plant to grow in the aquarium and it needs a great deal of light.

There is some debate about whether water lettuce is a native plant in the US or not, but either way it has been here a long time, since the first recorded observation was in 1765. It has caused problems as an invasive weed in some places and is listed in some states.

Riccia

Riccia fluitans Aquatic floating

Riccia fluitans common name is crystalwortused as lawn

Riccia fluitans is a liverwort that’s been getting a lot of attention lately as a ground cover. Tied to rocks it does make an attractive lawn plant in the aquarium, but for years it’s been used as it grows naturally, floating. In the past this plant was commonly called crystalwort and is referenced in aquarium literature from at least as early as the late 1800’s. It’s a particularly useful plant in the breeding of some fish. The dense mats can hide tiny fry, much better than even other floating plants or can be used on bottom aquarium as lawn or growing over rocks.

Salvinia

Salvinia is another floating fern most often used in ponds. It is interesting in that the “roots” seen floating below the plant is actually a modified leaf. There are considered to be 10 species of Salvinia. None of them are native to the United States though they are in the country now. 4 species are on the federal noxious weed list. They are also invasive in many other countries. Salvinia will sometimes grow in an aquarium under the right conditions but considering their status I would advise against growing them at this point.

Utricularia

Bladderworts are very interesting carnivorous plants, several of which you can keep in the aquarium. There are over 200 species of bladderworts world wide living both in the water and in moist environments. These can look like several other aquatic plants with their fine feathery leaves, but unlike the similar looking plants, bladderworts have tiny bladders. These small bladders capture tiny insects and crustaceans, sometimes even very tiny fish fry, depending on the type and size of the plant.

I’ve found bladderworts to be somewhat temperamental in the aquarium. Some are not very attractive and look more like hair algae with a few very tiny bladders thrown in. These types seem to grow about as well as hair algae in the aquarium and are generally a nuisance. Other more attractive bladderworts can be somewhat temperamental, growing well for some time then deciding to fade away, popping up again several months later. In tanks with added CO2 I’ve noticed they don’t play the fading away trick. I have noticed in the tanks I’ve put the bladderworts in with additional CO2 that the leaf growth isn’t as thick as the tanks without added CO2.

Bladderworts don’t usually flower in the aquarium but if they do the small and lovely flowers grow above the water. Depending on the species the flowers can range from yellow to violet.

Moss Ball (Chladophora aegagropila)

Moss Ball (Chladophora aegagropila)

Moss Ball
 
Due to variations within species, your item may not look identical to the image provided.

• QUICK STATS

• Care Level: Easy

• Lighting: Moderate to High

• Placement: Foreground

• Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 3-8, pH 6.8-7.5

• Propogation: Division

• Color Form: Green

• Supplements: High Quality Aquarium Fertilizer

• Origin: Farm Raised, USA

• Family: Cladophorales

All fishes love the Moss Ball-(although not floating plant this is highly recommended) Moss ball  is a spongy velvet-like green algae ball that in the wild is found around Japan and Northern Europe. They were once thought to be extremely slow growing, but recent studies suggest that the growth can be accelerated by providing more nutrients. In its natural habitat, they are moved around by undercurrents and sink or rise in order to receive plenty of light to carry out photosynthesis.

  

The Moss Ball requires moderate to high lighting, approximately 3 watts per gallon provided by full spectrum (5000-7000K) bulbs. The temperature of the water should be between 72°-82°F, with an alkalinity of 3-8 dKH and a neutral pH.

The Moss Ball propagates by division. It starts with a division line which progresses to the splitting off of a smaller new Moss Ball.; approximate purchase size is small: 1" to 1 -3/4" compared to when they start growing.

Summery

There’s a large selection of floating plants that can be used in the aquarium for a variety of purposes. Sometimes these plants can be overlooked when deciding what to put in your tank but the floating plants have a lot to offer. Floating plants can be useful for utilitarian purposes like breeding your fish or using plants in a bare bottom tank. Some of them have very fast growth and can be used to help clean up your tank. Floating plants can bring the beauty and interest of long hanging roots to your pristinely Aquascape planted tank. And floating plants can add something uniquely unusual for the collector, like the carnivorous bladderwort. There are many more floating plant species and many more uses for them than I could possibly cover in one column, but perhaps this brief review will encourage you to try some of them in your aquarium.

Originally appeared in the June 2007 issue of

Tropical Fish Hobbyist Magazine

.

South America Cichlids-apistos

Apistos South American Dwarf Cichlid

Apistos South American Dwarf Cichlid Genus Apistogramma;there are volumes of material regarding aquarium literature discussing tank size and how it relates to the apistogramma. Most of the literature implies large tanks should be for large fish and small tanks for small fish; one line in particular stated the apistos are perfect for apartment dwelling hobbyists because you can keep them in small tanks tens and fifteens; well, this is true to a certain extent you can keep them in small tanks and they will live and breed there but what you won’t see, is apistos as they really are in nature defending territories and protecting areas against other males and bully females; further you will experience high unnatural death rate for your Apistos in small fish tank.

A Male Apistogramma cacatuoides there is a German dwarf cichlid researcher Dr. Uwe Romer has found by studying apisto populations in the wild that these little fish live in a fairly crowded environment; with perhaps as many as a thousand fish in an area of nine square meters, with leaf litter up to one meter thick on the bottom. You can’t duplicate these conditions in a small aquarium, but you can in a large one he recommends keep your fish in tanks from no less than 40 gallon or 152 liters to 150 gallon or 658 liters aquariums

Large tanks provide many advantages; they are easier to maintain the proper pH and hardness. It is also easier to control the effects of ammonia and nitrites. Lastly, you will see the fish act in a way that more closely resembles their behavior in the wild. As an example, many as 125 of A. juruensis living in a 40 gallon aquarium and around 500 of A. cacatuoides living and doing well in a 150 gallon aquarium.

Of course, to have this many fish in a tank it must have the correct environment. To achieve this in one of two ways your aquariums have either lots of cured drift wood, rocks (i.e. granite) and live plants or live plants, cured driftwood, river rocks and leaf litter can be moss balls. Follow the usual precautions with the wood and rocks make sure they are clean (sterilizing is always required) and with rocks, (never use) use just any type of rocks that will alter the chemistry of your tank water like rocks with limestone in them use sterilized river rock or granite this requires boiling them and then placing them in large bucket of clean water for several days pour off the old water and rinse them daily add new clean water.

There are hundred of aquatic plants that can be used like Anubias- Sword plants are a good choice for the new hobbyist; since they tend to grow quite well even in less than optimal conditions. Dwarf Hairgrass. Pygmy Chain Swords, Indian Fern, Java Fern, Water Sprite, Moss Balls, Lilaeopsis brasiliensis and Dwarf Hairgrass. For spawning caves, very small plastic seeding planting pots or small ceramic pots they are available in most nurseries. They are cheaper than other sold in aquarium shops and you can get them in green which blend in with their environment. As often as not, though, the fish will spawn on a rock or log or plant leaves; but put the caves in the fish really like them caves make them feel safe and secure.

Water

The most important component for apisto aquarium is the water. There are three things about the water MUST be accurate;

1.      Hardness,

2.      pH,

3.      Cleanliness.

Is your water not quite good enough for apistos without any conditioning at all (100ppm hardness and a pH of 6.5 and run it through an R.O. (Reverse Osmosis) filter. Ion exchange is OK but if you are still not satisfied recharge them and run through again you probably won’t wear out the membrane in the R.O. filter.

The pH level in an aquarium is a measure of the tank's acidity. Most fish do best with a pH ranging from 6.5 to 7.5, but many aquarium keepers have difficulty maintaining these levels. With careful tank management, however, you can maintain the pH at a healthy level.

   

Tips & Warnings

1. Fish can thrive in a range of pH levels. Most will do well a full point above or below their recommended "ideal." You should only use chemical pH-altering substances if the pH is several numbers away from where it should be.

2. If you have difficulty regulating the pH in your aquarium, you may have either hard or soft water. Consider buying fish that naturally thrive in the pH level of your water.

3. Rapid changes in pH can be dangerous to fish. If your aquarium pH is off, avoid rapidly changing it. Huge alterations in pH are far more likely to kill your fish than an incorrect pH.

Lights & Live Plants

Lights should be dim this can be attained through Ceratophyllum which floats on top of water;Hornwort is a very common feathery leaved aquarium plant that will grow well in many aquariums. Hornwort also stands up to many fish that may have tendencies to include salads in their diets.

Hornwort is unique in that it will never develop roots. You can put the plant in bunches in the back of your tank and it can look nice that way but the plant will roots just won’t ever form and if you try to place any part of hornwort under the substrate, that portion will die. 

Hornwort can grow under lower and higher light levels. In lower light it will be brighter green and thinner. In higher light the plant gets bushier and can get red tints particularly in the stem. In fact hornwort is usually very easy to grow in the aquarium and pretty much anywhere else. Though a native of North America, this plant has been introduced in many parts of the world where it’s become a problematic weed. 

The Ceratophy llaceae have their own family and its relationship to other plants is still undetermined. They seem to be confusing plants for botanists, the number of different species isn’t certain either. Earlier sources argued at 1 or 2, newer sources list 6 or 7; but over 30 have been described, though many of those are almost certainly the same highly variable plants. 

Although there are some very competent apisto keepers who use straight R.O. water for their fish, mix with tap water to achieve a desired hardness of 10ppm. Next I treat the water with Sodium Bisulfate to bring the pH down to 4.5. Also use peat in filters as well as leaves (either Oak or Birch) to bring the pH down. However, I have found that the peat and the leaves don’t get the pH as low as I like, so I supplement with Sodium Bisulfate. I like to A Female Apistogramma cacatuoides.end up with a pH of 5.0 to 5.5 for most of my fish. However, the fish in the A. pertensis and A. iniridae complex seem to like it lower, around 4.5 pH.

Water cleanliness means three things: filtration, water changes, and feeding. I prefer biological filters. Most aquarium manufacturers sponge filter media just don’t have enough surface area to keep my apisto tanks clean, or they require too much maintenance if you have a lot of tanks.

The filters I use are made up of glass partitions that separate one part of the tank from the rest and essentially turning in into a trickle filter. Next I mix peat into the bottom half layer of rock. Water changes are done once every week to nine days with my conditioned R.O. water resulting in the tanks staying nice and clean.

Feeding

The feeding part of the equation is simple. I feed only live baby brine shrimp twice a day and only as much as they can eat in five minutes or so. I know some apisto keepers who practically count the number of shrimp they put in the tank, but it is actually very important not to over feed because uneaten live shrimp breaks down quickly and apistos are very susceptible to bacterial infections caused by dirty water.

Species

Now that you have some idea as to the keeping of apistos some species of apisto are a bit more forgiving than others. Apistogramma cacatuoides, A. steindachneri, A. macmasteri, and A. sp. Schwarzsaum are all good fish for beginners. However, if given the right aquarium conditions, most apistos will adjust adequately to the aquarium environment.

Dwarf Cichlids-Laetacara curviceps

Laetacara curviceps-Flag acara-Dwarf Flag Cichlid

Laetacara curviceps, aka the flag acara or dwarf flag cichlid is a dwarf cichlid from South American.

This fish lives in habits off forested area streams or in sluggish tributaries and swamps off the main river channels or slow-moving rivers and streams as well as ponds and lakes in the vicinity of the Brazilian Amazon Basin. Flag acaras are commonly kept in aquariums though they were more popular in the past; nowadays other dwarf cichlids like apistos and rams have become the predominate favorites.

Laetacara curviceps is one of several Laetacara species. All are small and make good aquarium inhabitants. Several different species can be found at times through specialty organizations like the American Cichlid Association

This beautiful little species was previously included in the genus Aequidens and is referred to as such in older literature. The current genus name Laetacara was erected in 1986, and is derived from the Latin word 'Laetus', meaning happy. This was settled upon as the species it contains are often referred to as 'smiling' acaras, in reference to the distinctive markings around their mouthparts. There are a handful of undescribed species that have been tentatively placed in the genus. L. sp. "Buckelkopf" and L. sp. "Orangeflossen", in particular have achieved a fair degree of popularity in the hobby.

Characteristics Living in Home Aquarium

Step 1: Selecting the Laetacara curviceps species is worthy choice; the flag acara very peaceful compared to most cichlids;

Step 2: Flag acara will not uproot plants and well planted aquarium will be greatly appreciated and is necessary for this dwarf cichlid;

Step 3: Laetacara curviceps adult male and female size adult male can measure 3.6" (9cm). Females are smaller, approximately 2.8" (7cm).

Step 4: pH water range Flag acara prefers slightly acidic conditions, recommendation in the range 5.5-7.0.

Step 5: Water hardness 2-10°dH

Step 6: Recommended water temperature for Flag acara 24 - 29 °C ( 76 °F - 84 °F )

Step 7: Add a number of broad leaved sword plants as well as a thicket of java moss and some floating water sprite and they will soon be ready to spawn.

Step 8: Dwarf flag cichlid require slightly soft and acidic water but are sometimes tolerant of different conditions however it is important to try to keep water conditions as close to their natural habitat as they experience in the wild.

Step 9: Flag acaras are ideal for communities with other peaceful Amazon fish;

Step 10: Flag acara tank mates could be tetras and apistos. However, you must be careful in selecting Dwarf flag cichlids tank mates as they are easily bullied by more aggressive fish, even those that are much smaller Remember Laetacara curviceps species is shy and easily intimidated and breeding will be limited if at all.

Step 11: Tank size should be at least 30 gallon or larger the larger the aquarium the easier to keep your tanks eco system balanced and clean conversely the smaller the aquarium the more difficult it is to maintain water quality, water flow, pH levels, temperature and build-ups of nitrogenous waste; you will be required to indulged in 1000% more work for a 10 gallon or 38 liter tank than you will need to do on 100 gallonor 379 liter tank.

 

Great video however it is in German

 Laetacara curviceps Diet and Food

Flag acara do best on live or frozen foods.

1. earthworms chopped finely;
2. blood worms;
3. brine shrimp live or frozen;
4. white worms will bring out their full coloration;
5. water fleas
6. Avoid tubifex worms they have been linked to bacteria that kill cichlids.

 

Lifespan Dwarf flag cichlids

Anticipated and expected lifespan is 2-4 years.

Breeding Laetacara curviceps

Step 1: Laetacara curviceps, flag acaras will pair up at a very young age as small as one and a half inches.

Step 2: The dwarf flag cichlid will flare at each other when pairing up and will later swim together and breed and they usually will stay with their mate for the rest of their lives.

Step 3: Laetacara curviceps it never takes much to trigger the breeding of flag acaras. Clear-cut beneficial living conditions are more often enough;

Step 4: For the flag acaras warm and clean water is mandatory and plentiful live food is necessary;

 

 

Steps to Successful Eggs, Hatching, Wigglers, Free Swimming Young  

Step 1: Laetacara curviceps prefer their eggs are usually laid on a leaf or upright structure or on a flat surface but they can also dig a hole and spawn directly on gravel or sand.

Step 2: Five to seven days the eggs will hatch and become wiggler; this is when the hatchling dwarf flag cichlid have hatched out of their eggs but are still attached to the spawning surface feeding off their yolk sacs which are attached to their stomachs.

Step 3: Subsequently when the five to seven days of being wigglers have past the fish have almost completely consumed their yolk sacs and become free swimming.

Step 4: Laetacara curviceps free swimming young is very small but they can normally eat newborn brine shrimp as their first food and crushed flakes. Laetacara curviceps young can also be fed liquid fry food which is available at most fish or pet stores with good care and frequent water changes you can raise quite a few from a single spawn and sell the young it can be profitable.

          

Laetacara curviceps Parenting Skills

Step 1: Both parents take turns guarding and protecting their eggs, wigglers, and fry.

Step 2: Laetacara curviceps are dedicated as the parents however they sometimes become confused and eat their own eggs.

Step 3: Laetacara curviceps if they become fearful for their brood's safety, Laetacara curviceps will pick up the fry in their mouth and move them across the tank and some times the scoop up the eggs for no apparent reason other than to take the eggs for a swim about.

Step 4: The flag acaras will take turns moving the fry, one standing guard over the already moved young.

Step 5: The fry are protected by their parents until they are moderately large and can fend for themselves.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Laetacara curviceps

Scientific classification

Kingdom:         Animalia

Phylum:            Chordata

Class:   Actinopterygii

Order: Perciformes

Family:             Cichlidae

Subfamily:         Cichlasomatinae

Genus: Laetacara

Species:            L. curviceps

Binomial name: Laetacara curviceps

Dwarf Cichlids

Dwarf Cichlids

Dwarf cichlids are found in Africa and South America. The most well known dwarf cichlid species are the South American and belong to the genus Apistogramma laetacara-curviceps-flag-acara-dwarf. These cichlids live in the Amazon region and some species have also been found in Venezuela. 

1. Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma agassizi)

1.     Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma agassizi)

2. Blue Apistogramma (Apistogramma trifasciata)

2.     Blue Apistogramma Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma trifasciata)

3. Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma cacatuoides)

3.     Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma cacatuoides)

4 Yellow Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma borellii)

4.     Yellow Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma borellii). Apistogramma dwarf cichlids are the most common type dwarf cichlids kept in the home aquarium. 

In the wild; Apistogramma dwarf cichlids habitat is in soft acidic waters, and you must keep the pH between 5.5 and 6.8 in the aquarium and make sure that the water is soft. 

 

The male Apistogramma cichlids will grow too approximately three inches or 7.62 cm and the females are usually one and half inches or 3.81 cm in size; this makes it possible to house dwarf cichlids in smaller aquarium minim size can be 30 gallon  or 114 liters any smaller you will be working yourself to death; remember the smaller the aquarium the more water changes and extreme upkeep is always required for small tanks; you should not house dwarf cichlids in any type of small aquarium water quality and pH is absolute must for this dwarf cichlid-Apistogramma cichlids and care would be exaggerated in small tank.

However most dwarf cichlids are extremely sensitive to water and pH quality than their larger cousins and it will be hard to keep the water quality fine enough in a very small aquarium. Due to their sensitivity Apistogramma Dwarf cichlids are never recommended to aquarists without previous aquarium experience.

Apistogramma dwarf cichlids are quite docile but they will defend their territory during spawning. Just like many other cichlids, Apistogramma species and are great parents will care for their offspring. 

The male Apistogramma will claim a territory and protect it, and several females will care for the fry in small nests within this territory. The nests are usually quite basic, like holes in the sand or a little pile of leaf litter. 

Each female will defend her own spawning site against all others. If you keep bottom dwelling fish species, like catfish, with your Apistogramma dwarf cichlids you must remove them from the aquarium when the dwarf cichlids begin to spawning. Dwarf cichlids are known to pick out the eyes of intruding fish species.

One of the most commonly kept dwarf cichlids from Africa is Pelvicachromis pulcher, the Kribensis cichlid. A male Kribensis can reach a size of 10 centimeters (4 inches) while the females 5 centimeters or (2 inches) and they always are much smaller than the males. 

African Dwarf Cichlid is Pelvicachromis pulcher- Kribensis cichlid

1. African Dwarf Cichlid is Pelvicachromis pulcher- Kribensis cichlid

Unlike a lot of the commonly kept African cichlids, this cichlid does not originate from any of the Great Rift Valley lakes. Kribensis is instead found in the Pelvicachromis pulcher is native to southern Nigeria and to coastal areas of Cameroon, where it occurs in warm (24–26 °C or 75–79 °F), acidic to neutral (pH 5.6–6.2), soft water (12–22 mg L-1 CaCO3). 

Populations of P. pulcher prefers rivers with fast running shallow water;they also have occurred outside its natural range in Hawaii, as a USA by-product of the ornamental fish trade;
 

Pelvicachromis pulcher is native to southern Nigeria and to coastal areas of Cameroon, where it occurs in warm (24–26 °C or 75–79 °F), acidic to neutral (pH 5.6–6.2), soft water (12–22 mg L-1 CaCO3).

If you want to keep Kribensis cichlids, you should house them in a well planted aquarium with plenty of hiding places since this resembles the natural environment for Kribensis cichlids. 

Drift wood and rocks can also be used to create hiding places. Kribensis cichlids will work well with each other or in a community aquarium. They will claim territories, but these are so small that territorial fights will be unusual. Unlike many larger African cichlids, Kribensis cichlids are not very found of digging.

Set-Up New Aquarium Dwarf Cichlids

Set-Up New Aquarium Dwarf Cichlids

This article will only point out a few things that are important to keep in mind when you are about to set up a new aquarium. For more details, I recommend you download FREE the e-book called “Tropical Fish” from the forum,

Downloading the book is completely free of charge and will provide you with much more comprehensive information about how to set up and maintain an aquarium. By spending some time reading up on the subject you can save yourself a lot of problems (and money!) in the long run. A lot of new aquarists lose interest in the hobby when all the fish in their newly set up aquarium suddenly goes belly up, and this is sad because in most cases, this type of sudden fish death can be easily prevented. 

Location and surface

If you plan on using electrical equipment, e.g. airstones, heaters etcetera in your aquarium it must naturally be placed where you have access to electricity. Placing an aquarium where it will be exposed to sunlight is not a good idea since this will promote excessive algae growth. It is also important to keep in mind that a filled aquarium is really empty and normal your normal furniture may be not be strong enough to keep it up. Getting an aquarium stand or special aquarium furniture is therefore recommended for mid-sized aquariums and bigger.

Safety

Every thing that will go into your aquarium should be thoroughly washed to prevent disease and pollution from entering your aquarium. Use hot water and bleach rather than detergents, and meticulously wash away all traces of bleach afterwards. Gravel must be carefully rinsed unless you want the water to get really cloudy. Living things such as plants and fish can be dipped in saltwater to kill of external parasites and bacteria.

 

Water treatment
If you use chlorinated tap water you must add a dechlorinator before you use it for your aquarium since chlorine and chloramines damage the gills of your fish and kills of beneficial bacteria. You can purchase a dechlorinator intended for aquarium use in your local fish store. A less expensive way of treating the water is to mix a lot of air into it when you pour it into a bucket (e.g. by tilting the bucket) and then leave it to rest for 24 hours.

 

Filling the aquarium
Do not begin filling your aquarium anywhere else than in its intended place because it will become really heavy. When you have added the gravel, place a dish or similar on top of it and pour the water onto the dish instead of directly onto the gravel. This will divert the water and stir up less debris. Fill the aquarium half way up, plant any plants and add aquarium decoration, and then proceed to fill it all the way up.

Equipment

Connect all your equipment and leave the gadgets running for 24 hours. This will give you time to make sure that everything works as it should.

Cycling

Cycling is the process where you cultivate large amounts of beneficial bacteria in the aquarium. These bacteria will help you keep the water quality up by converting dangerous fish waste into a less dangerous substance and maintaining an aquarium without these helpful bacteria is really difficult. Many beginner aquarists are not aware of the necessity of cycling and this is one of the main reasons behind sudden fish death in newly set up aquariums. I therefore strongly advise you to read one of the articles about how to cycle the aquarium. It is not difficult at all and it will save you a lot of trouble in the long run. You can also download the FREE e-book “Tropical Fish” from the forum (for free) and follow the cycling guide.
 

Acclimatising your new fishes
Start by introducing a small number of fish during the cycling process (unless you opt for a fishless cycle) and then gradually introduce more and more fish over the course of several weeks. This will prevent the water quality in your aquarium to drop sharply. When you arrive home with a bag of fish, leave the bag floating in the aquarium to prevent sharp changes in temperature. After roughly 15 minutes, open the bag and pour some aquarium water into it. DO NOT allow any water from the bag to escape into your aquarium water since it can carry disease. After an additional 15 minutes, open the bag again and add some more water. This process will give the fish a chance to gradually grow accustomed to the water chemistry in your aquarium. Wait for 15 more minutes before you use a net to catch the fish and let it into the aquarium. Discard the bag with the pet shop water.

Related articles

• General Fish Care Tips (donjohnmmaglasang.wordpress.com)

 Blue Dolphin Cichlids-Blue Moorii Lipid Metallic-Blue

The Blue Dolphin Cichlid has a nuchal hump protruding from its forehead and it has Angelina Jolie bulging lips that extend from its face address with pink lipstick. Both of these physical characteristics combined resemble a dolphin. The nuchal hump on its head starts to develop as the fish develops and the nuchal hump becomes larger as Blue Dolphin Cichlid matures and ages further the nuchal hump develops in both male and female specimens.

The Blue Dolphin Cichlid is lipid metallic-blue in color and may or may not have a scattering of black splotches all over their bodies and as they age the top of their head will appears brown or moss algae green. This lipid blue male species can grow to be a maximum size of 12” inches in length although the females are predisposed to approximately 8” inches and she will always be slightly smaller than males and they can live for 12 to 15 years. The Blue Dolphin Cichlid is slow growing and this fish takes at least two and half too three year old to reach sexual maturity.

High Protein Diet-Live Food Is Required and Preferred

Blue Moorii Cichlids can be considered micro-predators because of their hunting habits in the wild. By following substrate diggers they can feast on the micro-organisms that get stirred up into the water. In captivity, this carnivore will accept a number of live foods such live brine shrimp, prawns, bloodworms, white worms, aquatic fleas. crickets, frozen brine shrimp. NEVER EVER FEED beef heart which has to much fat and can cause bloating which is fatal. Further do not feed them Tubifex worms the Tubifex worms have been linked with the appearance of bacterial diseases in Malawi cichlids.

 “There is not much need for green foods in their diet but they are likely to accept it as a dietary option if nothing else is available”. However Blue Moorii Cichlids Requires very high protein diet this is absolutely necessary for their overall health to thrive, grow, mature and breed”.

 

 Blue Dolphin Cichlid Behavior and Fish Tank Compatibility

This relatively peaceful cichlid fish is as non-violent as one can expect from an African cichlid. But don’t let that fool you because they can and will still be capable of eating any fish that is small enough to be eaten. The Blue Dolphin should not be in the same community aquarium as small, non-aggressive fish such as goldfish, beta, tetras, guppies, angelfish but they make great tank mates with species such as Plecos, Synodontis catfish. 

 

They do really well in species tanks as long as there are more females than males for breeding purposes. The male needs to have opportunities for breeding just in case one of the females is not ready to lay eggs just yet. Malawi Blue Dolphins can become very aggressive while spawning or when it comes to territories if there are not enough space or females for each male; each male needs at least three females, so be sure to provide sufficient swimming space to prevent disputes. Blue Dolphin Cichlid does not require hiding places they prefer wide open space for their territory so if you desire rocks place the rocks in the back corners along with rock along and against the back glass for the protection of your catfish. Remember their natural habitat is in shallow sandy areas of their lake environment and they do not go into rock areas ever unless they are panicked and pursued by a predator.

 

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“Eggs Everywhere What Do I Do- Jack Dempsey Cichlids

“Eggs Everywhere What Do I Do” 2 Jack Dempsey Cichlids

Question:

“Eggs Everywhere What Do I Do” Jack Dempsey Cichlid Laid Eggs

Answer

Eggs are not everywhere they are on flat rock. If you discover your Jack Dempsey cichlids have laid eggs, just leave them alone to care for eggs and fry. Jack Dempsey fish are superb parents from egg laying right on through to about 6 weeks when the immature Jack Dempsey can care for themselves.

If the aquarium is housing only the two parents, then you’re in good to go. If other fish are housed in this aquarium then you need to take other precautions.

• Step 1: Remove all fish other than the Jack Dempsey Cichlids parents leave them with their eggs they are great parents

• Step 2:  Make sure the rock where the female Dempsey deposited her eggs are at a 45 degree angle.

• Step 3: Place air stone close to the 45 degree flat rock the air bubbles will help the female cichlid keeping debris off her eggs you will notice she fans the eggs this is the keep the eggs clean.

• Step 4: Make sure your aquarium heater is set for 80 degrees water temperature your water should be approximately 78 to 80F (26-27C)

• Step 5: It’s very important to keep the water very clean when eggs are developing.

• Step 6: Invest in UV Filer or Ozone Generator this is must for egg protection from bacteria infection which kills eggs.  

With only the two parents housed in the aquarium, leave them to care for the eggs they will hatch in about 3 days and the fry once they hatch Jack Dempsey fish eggs they will continue to care for the fry.

Water temperature should be between 75–80F (24-27C). The warmer the water the eggs will hatch a bit sooner. It’s important to keep a gentle current of water moving across the eggs.

Use air stone with a gentle flow of bubbles nearby the eggs is good. This will help keep debris from settling on them. You’ll notice that the female almost constantly fans the eggs to keep off any debris that might settle on the eggs.

This debris can often infect the eggs, causing a white fungus growth on them. The female will usually remove those eggs before others nearby are infected as well.

Some eggs will always turn bad, even if your water is very clean. When the male fertilizes the eggs he seldom gets every single one of them and that eggs will die. 

It is best if the surface that she lays her eggs on is at or near a 45 degree angle so this helps avoid anything from settling on those eggs. If she has laid them on a flat surface in the aquarium, try to carefully slant the rock at an angle near the nesting site.

Transferring Eggs To The Nursery

If the Jack Dempsey’s laid their eggs in an aquarium with other fish then you’ll need to remove the eggs to a nursery tank before they hatch.  Even cat fish or Plecos will be a danger to the eggs and hatchlings they certainly are in danger and can and will be eaten at the egg stage or the hatchling level.

Use 5 or 10 gallon tank is the best size for the original nursery so that the young fry will have an easier time finding food on the bottom. 

 

It’s best that you not place gravel on the bottom for ease of cleaning and the fry find food faster. If possible, place the female in the nursery with the eggs. This is NOT necessary but her care is beneficial to a high percentage of hatchlings.

Remove water from the original aquarium  

And place in nursery tank before moving the eggs.  Be sure the temperature and pH are very close to that of the original environment before placing eggs in this nursery