Sunday, February 26, 2012

Wolf cichlid -parachromis, dovii, guapote, rainbow bass,


Wolf Cichlid- parachromis, dovii


Wolf Cichlid a fish by any other name this fish is called parachromis dovii, Dovii, Parachromis, Guapote, Leopard Cichlid or sport fishermen refer to this cichlid as Rainbow Bass or the Gold Bass. The name Dovii is paradoxical regarding this fish as it name implies means peace dove the Wolf Cichlid is not peaceful fish. The Wolf is playful, curious, and intelligent; this is one of the few cichlids that can be trained to be hand fed. In the areas where this cichlid is naturally occurring they are usually referred to as guapote (guapote blanco) or lagunero in Spanish and as rainbow or gold bass in English speaking regions all these names are describing just one fish and that is the wolf cichlid or in the US they are usually refereed to as dovii.

The wolf cichlid is one of the largest growing of the cichlidae family; The dovii is somewhat similar in appearance to the jaguar cichlid (Parachromis managuensis), however the dovii is larger and stockier, and a dark, solid, unbroken band runs horizontally thought the flank of the fish; in contrast jaguar cichlid possesses a series of large spots along the flank. Base color of the Wolf cichlid is gold, and well-kept specimens will take on a beautiful lavender color. They have random black spots all over their body and the young juveniles are gold with a black horizontal stripe.

Big and mean best describes this wolf cichlid. Dovii are known for their aggression, so tank mates need to compete with their temperament and size. It is recommended that these fish are kept in a large species tank with no tank mates to avoid issues. They will eat anything small enough to fit in their mouth, and will not hesitate to beat or kill more docile tank mates.

Feed pellets, frozen foods like silversides and krill, and earthworms on occasion. This fish is a substrate spawners. Wolf Cichlids are widely regarded as one of the most vicious cichlids available to aquarists; though many specimens may not live up to this reputation they are still considered wolf cichlid as extremely, strong and powerful cichlid with winning personality.

Breeding can be achieved with very little effort and no specific requirements are needed for breeding purposes. As long as water conditions are maintained at a desirable high quality, I use nitrates denitrator freshwater filtering systems in my opinion this type of filter is worth every penny what we as hobbyists fail to mention is the nitrate filter will greatly reduce the need for water changes in your fish tanks, saving you time, money, and reducing the stress on your Wolf Cichlids a breeding pair of such fish will readily spawn. The aquarium must be large 250 minimum to 500 gallon for a breeding pair of wolf cichlids. As with all members of its genus, these fish are large and heavily built cichlids that produce large amounts of body waste.

dovii Breeding/Reproduction

The Wolf Cichlid or Dovii Cichlid has been bred in captivity. They are substrate spawners and both parents will care for the young. When a pair is formed out of a group, the male should not be too hard on the female. Often times a male will excessively beat up on the female. In this case a divider with the bottom open just large enough to let the eggs be fertilized would be needed.

The female will lay over 1,000 of eggs that hatch in 5 days. The fry are free swimming in a few more days. The young can eat baby brine and other meaty preparations, and offer larger sized foods as they grow. Sort the fry by size as they grow as well, or the larger siblings will eat the smaller ones. The Wolf Cichlid is sexually mature at 10 to 14 months and will spawn about every 4 weeks.

To enhance the likelihood of acquiring a breeding pair, purchase several healthy very young and active juveniles at a young age (between 1” -2”) and grow these specimens until sexual maturity. Generally, you should have at least two breeding pairs. These fish will noticeably become more aggressive and territorial, Remove all other fish at this point and keep the newly formed breeding pair separate.



When a breeding pair had been successfully established, the male will begin to court the female by displaying his erect finnage to the female as he tries to impress her in an attempt for her to accept his mating invitation. The pair will begin to clean a flat surface if the female is responsive of the male's previous courting behavior. The female will then lay approximately 1000 - 2000 orange colored eggs which will then be fertilized by the male wolf cichlid.

The eggs will be vigorously guarded by both Dovii, parents and the amount of parental care is always shown to the eggs as well as the fry. When the eggs 'hatch' after approximately 5 -7 days as you can see in the video, both parents fan the eggs, the eggs should hatch after about 4 days into what we call "wrigglers"; the offspring (known as wrigglers in this stage in development) wrigglers cannot swim, consequently the name, and the wigglers do not need to be fed, because each wriggler has a yolk sac attached to their stomach and the wigglers feed off their yolk sack.

The wriggler stage lasts approximately 5 days, after which the fry become free swimming. Further it is not uncommon for one or both wolf parents will often transport the young into pre dug pits and are guarded the pit and again dig another pit and move the young again. Once the fry only become free swimming you will need to start feeding the fry; the best thing to feed the fry is frozen baby brine shrimp and quality high protein pellets ground to fine powder. 



The fry will begin to swim in approximately 7 days and should be fed with baby brine shrimp or alike. If you would like to rear these fry, they should be removed at this point as they will later be consumed by both parents as the female becomes due to spawn once more. Feed the fry baby brine shrimp until the stage where they are large enough to consume white worm, daphnia and other live foods.

When you purchase your young wolf fish in an attempt to acquire a breeding pair, try to buy fish from different sources. There is a high probability that when buying fish from the same source, fish will be from the same parents (siblings). Breeding fish in this manner may form offspring with genetic disorders usually associated with interbreeding; always buy your young wolf fish are of a similar size.

dovii Aquarium

The aquarium should be large (250 gallons or 947.35295 liters or 500 gallons or 1892.7059 liters) for a breeding pair of wolf cichlids. As with all members of this genus, these fish are large and heavily built cichlids that are aggressive and highly territorial. Decor could be kept to a minimum in such an aquarium and sand or fine gravel should be used as the main substrate. If you desire some landscaping either glue rock together or use a very large flower pots placed on it side if you want to include caves for female Dovii; for the substrate use many pieces of flat slate or rock should also be included for the female to lay her eggs upon; remember this fish is a digger and prefers to rearrange their habit. Include large moss balls or ping pond balls this is highly intelligent fish and suffer from extreme curiosity and boredom always leads to aggression.


wolf cichlid Care and Feeding   


The wolf cichlid or dovii is a carnivore, a predator that feeds on primarily other smaller fish, along with crustaceans and insects in the wild. In the aquarium they can have a pellet base foods but must be supplemented with fish, shrimp, earthworms, and other meaty foods; they prefer floating foods according to one fish keeper. Consider only feeding them frozen, since live fish can carry disease, unless you are willing to grow a ton of feeders on your own.

Keep in mind that giving them live foods makes them much more aggressive naturally. Fed them no more than 3 times a day and feed them only enough food they can eat in 5 minutes. Then do not feed them for 1.5 to 2 days once every other week this is the same as in the wild. Further this will keep the water quality higher over a longer time. All fish require vitamins and supplements added to their foods.

Remember this is a big cichlid that requires a lot of free swimming space, a tank of over 120 gallons is suggested for their long term care. Ideally 150 gallons for a female and 200 gallons for a male should be provided and over 300 gallons if you attempt to breed them. They need good water movement along with strong and efficient filtration. The female wolf cichlid requires and needs many hiding places to protect herself from the male wolf cichlid.


Provide lots of rocks, bog wood and tunnels to dig under with sandy or fine gravel substrate. Put large heavy rocks on the glass, not on the substrate because they dig under everything and falling rocks can crack your glass aquarium and scratch your acrylic tank. Glue desired rock formations together or your Wolf Cichlid will have other plans for your perfectly placed rock tower, just leave some rocks and stuff for them to move that where the large moss ball and ping pong balls come in; Decorating with tough plants is also possible, though strong light levels can cause algae growth. Do water changes of Water changes of 20 - 40% up to twice a week, give or take depending on your water quality.

dovii Diet

The Parachromis are not fussy eaters and will readily accept most food substances offered. Cichlid pellets are a good daily food. Diet should be varied however. Offer a variety of insect, including white worms, crickets (for larger specimens). Chopped meat can also be offered along with frozen finely chopped chicken no bones, frozen halibut, frozen salmon, frozen krill, small/medium silkworms are for medium and large aquarium fish of all types of cichlids excellent for Oscars, Cichlids, Large Angelfish, Barbs and many more; according to many animal experts, Silkworms are one of the healthiest insects you can feed your fish and other pets. Silkworms are low in fat content, are a high source of Calcium, Protein, Iron, Magnesium, Sodium and Vitamins B1, B2, and B3. Silkworms; do provide the essential variety required to maintain healthy cichlids. but never beef heart (due to its high fat content) along with prawn, wheat germ,  Hikari Tropical Food Sticks and high quality pellet carnivore food.
           
Supplement your meat-eating fish's diet with this complete nutritional package. Carnivore diets generally lack a lot of necessary elements. Food Sticks fill in the remaining gaps by providing a full assortment of essential vitamins and minerals to promote health and enhance coloration and (/frozen) Silversides frozen fish. Frozen fish is a much preferred method of feeding fish as many "feeder fish" carry the risk of the introducing disease into your aquarium, possibly harming your breeding wolf cichlid. I can speak to this I feed my Moray Ells and my Ribbon Ells feeder fish and approximately year they would die when I stopped feeding (feeder fish) to my ells and only frozen fish I’m happy to say they are doing fine and are now approximately eight year old.

Sexing

Females tend to be smaller than males but in some cases can grow just as big or as bigger than their spawn mates. The gold/yellow coloration is more prominent in the females, especially during courtship, breeding and raising fry. The male's dorsal and ventral fins are also much more elongated than the female's. Males tend to have more spots and will take on a beautiful lavender color comport varies on individual females or males and situations but aggression is usually to be expected during courtship and spawning periods.

Water chemistry

pH of 7.0 - 8.0 preferably;
Temperature of 23.9-27.8°C (75 -82 °F)
Water Hardness 15-20 °d


Stocking Ratio
1:1 M:F

Size of Wolf Cichlid
65-72 cm (25.6-30.") This fish grows to a length of 30" (72 cm).

Diet
Carnivore
Pellet Foods
Flake Foods
Live Food

Life Span Wolf Cichlid
8-12 years

Wild Wolf Cichlid Habitat
Central America

Family
Cichlidae

Parachromis dovii
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Parachromis dovii
Scientific classification
Kingdom:       Animalia
Phylum:           Chordata
Class:             Actinopterygii
Order:             Perciformes
Family:            Cichlidae
Subfamily:      Cichlasomatinae
Genus:            Parachromis
Species:         P. dovii
Binomial name
Parachromis dovii
(Günther, 1864)

Infection/Diseases

The dovii cichlids are subject to infections as well as other diseases that ail all freshwater fish. One common problem is Ich. It can be treated with the elevation of the tank temperature to 86° F (30° C) for 3 days. If that does not cure the Ich, then the fish needs to be treated with copper (remove any water conditioners). Several copper based fish medications are available for Ich. Copper use must be kept within the proper levels, so be sure to follow the manufacturer’s suggestions. A copper test can be used to keep the proper levels. You can also combine increasing the temperature with an Ich medication treatment. Intestinal disease can be treated with metronidazol.

Wolf Cichlid Water Region: Top, Middle or Bottom: These fish will swim in the middle areas of the aquarium.

Social Behaviors:    This is not a community fish, it is a predator that is territorial and aggressive and even more aggressive when spawning. The Wolf Cichlid can be kept alone, or as a mated pair. Other Wolf Cichlids in the tank will be killed by the dominant male.

This fish can only be kept with larger fish that have the same temperament and cannot be swallowed. The Wolf Cichlid will even try to consume a larger fish that is mellower than it by ripping it to pieces if it cannot swallow it whole. The mixed aquarium must be hundreds of gallons with rocks used to form natural territory borders and lots of hiding places for the other fish. It is not suggested to house them with any other fish and they are best served in a species specific tank. If you live in a warm area, they can be kept in a pond.

Sexual Differences: Males are larger, and the females are mostly yellow.


Availability:  The Wolf Cichlid or Dovii Cichlid are sometimes available online and sometimes in fish stores. They will run about $10.00 USD for 2” very young dovii juveniles and if you raise dovii you too should sell at 1.5" to 2".


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Thursday, February 23, 2012

Nitrate Balancing Act



Nitrates are a by-product of nitrite from the temporary bacteria and fungus i.e. algae union of two bacterial cells during which one cell transfers part or all of its genome to the other during the latter stages of the nitrogen cycle, and will be present to some degree in all aquariums.

Debris created from decaying plant material or food, dirty filters, over-feeding, fish over-stocking the aquarium, water tempter  the hotter the water temperature the lower the oxygen level in the water; lights help produce algae all these things contribute to increased production of nitrates.   

Filters will prevent the nitrogen cycle from getting out of balance.

Nitrates and Algae

Elevated nitrates are a significant contributor to undesirable algae growth. Nitrate levels as low as 10 ppm will promote algae growth. Algae blooms in newly setup tanks are usually due to elevated nitrate levels. Plants utilize nitrates, if nitrates rise faster than the plants can use them, the plants can become overgrown with algae, ultimately leading to the plants failure.

Nitrates and Water

Before adding water to your aquarium test your tap water for nitrates so you know if your tap water nitrates levels are unusually high in your water source. Unfortunately water used to fill the aquarium often has nitrates in it; in the United States, your drinking water may have nitrates as high as 40 ppm. If nitrates are above 10 ppm, you must use other water sources that are free of nitrates.
 
Desired Level

In nature nitrates remain very low, generally well below 5 ppm. In freshwater aquariums nitrates should be kept below 40 pm at all times, preferably below 25 ppm. If you are breeding fish or you are battling algae growth, keep nitrates below 10 ppm.


How to Reduce Nitrates

Unlike ammonia and nitrites, the bacteria that remove nitrates do not like oxygen rich environments. Therefore, conventional filters do not harbor the bacteria that remove nitrates. Although special filters do exist and they will remove nitrates, such devices are usually expensive compared to other filtration units; nitrates denitrator freshwater filtering systems in my opinion this type of filter is worth every penny what we fail to mention is nitrate filter will greatly reduce the need for water changes in your fish tanks, saving you time, money, and reducing the stress on your aquarium fish. However, there are steps you can take immediately to keep nitrates at lower levels.

  • Keep your aquarium clean – Waste, algae ultimately produces nitrates; the cleaner your aquarium the fewer nitrates are produced.
  • Overfeeding your fish – Feed your fish only enough food that the fish can consume in 5 minutes after five minutes use your net to fish out any food that has not been eaten. Overfeeding is a significant contributor to excess nitrates and other undesirable wastes; such as phosphates.
  • Water changes – Performing weekly 20% regular water changes with water that has little or no nitrates will lower the overall nitrate level in the tank. RO/DI water system is another choice for keeping nitrate levels low.
  •  Always keep live plants – Live plants utilize nitrates, and will help keep nitrates in check.
  • Use nitrogen removing filter media – Instead of denitrator or special filter, use special media in the filter you have. Although they will not lower nitrates dramatically, if used together with other methods the net result will be beneficial
  • The significance of nitrates in the aquarium is arguably less understood by fish keepers than the effect of ammonia and nitrites. Although nitrates are not directly lethal in the way ammonia or nitrites are, over time high levels of nitrate have a negative effect on fish, plants and the aquarium environment in general.

Effect on Fish

Fish will feel the impact of nitrates by the time the levels reach 100 ppm, particularly if levels remain there. The resulting stress leaves the fish more susceptible to disease and inhibits their ability to reproduce; if you are trying to breed your fish you absolutely have to keep the nitrate levels low.

High nitrate levels are in particular harmful to fry and young immature fish; further it will affect their growth. Furthermore, conditions that cause elevated nitrates always cause decreased oxygen levels in the water which further stress the fish or kills them.

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Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Vallisneria Spiralis, Italian Vals, Another Great Plant for Convict Cichlids

Vallisneria Spiralis, Italian Vals

Vallisneria Spiralis or as most people know them as Italian Vals are wonderful tall background plants. They do well in just about all water types and lighting, from soft to hard and low light to high light. With Vallisneria Spiralis you can cut the leaves to any size without damaging the plant which makes them great for small, large, tall, and short tanks.

Light Needs: Low to moderate
Region: Asia
Size: 30-55+ cm
Growth Rate: Fast

If you are considering buying you should receive 3 Rooted plants, leaves are approx.  15" to 20" tall.
             
Italian Vals, Another Great Plant for Convict Cichlids
By Bob Fenner
           
Vallisneria americana, a Jungle Val. in aquarium and in Florida in a drainage ditch

Amongst the most hardy and undemanding aquatic plants, Vallisnerias are easily grown in most aquariums. Their easy requirements are nutrient bearing gravel, lots of light and careful initial planting (with their white crown bases barely above gravel.

Vals are great for backgrounds, tank sides and central areas where high relief is desired. The genus is probably the most widely offered in the hobby; and the lowest cost to purchase and cultivate. Don't worry about killing them off, you will probably have to periodically thin out these plants to reduce their dense thickets.
 

Distribution & Classification

The genus is widely distributed over a large part of the globe, fresh to brackish, tropics to semi-temperate, naturally and through human introduction.

Vallisneriaare members of the monocotyledon family Hydrocharitaceae. This group that should be familiar to aquatic horticulturists as it also contains other important genera; Elodea (anacharis), the beautiful heart-shaped Limnobium and notorious Hydrilla verticillata, among others.

The Vallisnerias are superficially similar to the equally popular and appropriate arrowheads, genus Sagittaria. These look-alikes have pointier leaves, whiter, thicker roots and different venation in their leaf structure. Sag's typically bear darker green, stiffer leaves than vals.

There are about ten species of Vallisnerias, but good luck sorting them out. There is much confusion in the trade and literature on the common and scientific naming of these species and their hybrids and sport mutations. But as William Shakespeare wrote, "what's in a name"? Don't let labels dissuade you from trying the vals; they're all good.


The Players: Vallisneria spiralisLinnaeus is the beginning of the 'name game' trouble. This plant is named for the long spiraling stalk of its female flowers, but among its many synonyms and cultivar varieties are many surprisingly different structural types.

V. spiralis has one sub-form, termed "forma tortafolia", a sport mutation labeled V. tortissima and other 'contortionist' races that are variously sold as "spiral, corkscrew, twisted..."; Val in the trade.

The common names for the "parent" species include "tape grass" and "straight Val". Does this seem confused? You bet. There are many sports worldwide that have been named for variations in their leaves; Vallisneria spiralis forma portugalensis, V. s. forma nana, V. s. forma pusilla, V. s. forma gracilis. And the fun doesn't stop there; synonyms (invalid same species names) Vallisneria americana, V. jaquinii, V. linnei, V. minor are only the beginning of misnomers (see Roe). I'll never complain about African cichlids again.

V. spiralis plants can be distinguished from other vals and Sagittarias on the basis of the 'veins' in their leaves. They have five "ribs" which end parallel at the leaf tip. The middle vein is flanked by one thick and one thin vein near the leaf edge.

Anyway, all of the V. spiralis same species and varieties are very good aquarium plants. Some stay less than a foot high with leaves about a quarter inch, others get to about twice as tall and wide. Some have straight, others varyingly tightly corkscrew wound leafing. Here's an image of V. spiralis in an aquarium.
           

Vallisneria gigantea Graebner is like its name sounds the 'true' giant val. This is the largest species, growing to over six feet; for larger aquaria or even sub-tropical ponds. It originated in New Guinea and the Philippines, but we grow it outside all year round in my home-town of San Diego, California.

Leaves with seven veins, available sometimes in a beautiful red which changes back to green with increased lighting. This species is best blind potted to facilitate moving, re-fertilization.

Vallisneria asiaticaMiki, 1934. Naturally distributed in temperate areas of Asia. Ribbon-like non-twisted leaves, 16-24 "; long, up to 1/3; " wide. Imported since 1970, often sold as V. spiralis; don't you hate common names?

Vallisneria neotropicalisMarie Victoria, 1943. Distribution Southern U.S., Cuba. Color deep green to reddish. Often offered as American, giant, Italian Val in the west. To five foot long; large tanks only. One large central mid-rib with 4 long veins in every leaf.

Cultivation Notes:

Vallisneriaen moderate pH's (6-7.5); most species do well in tropical temperatures, 72-86 degrees Fahrenheit. V. gigantea will grow into the fifties. As regards mineral content, the water should not be too hard, a KH of 15 degrees or lower is best. Should your water start too hard from its source, you might consider mixing it with non-hard water (R.O., deionized), use of an acidifying agent, or transfer 'old' water from another system.

Substrate size and depth, with or without undergravel filter use is relatively unimportant. Silica sand or washed gravel will do with no supplementation other than fish wastes generally necessary or desirable. The larger species I would blind pot to facilitate moving and re-fertilizing, others do fine without utilizing peat, soil or other media placed under the gravel.

Care in planting is far more important; take care to not bury more than the root base of these plants, nor to get gravel between and amongst their leaf base. To plant gently drag the plants' roots under the gravel pulling the crown above the gravel at its white base.

Lighting cannot be practically too great in terms of strength or duration. The best light source for these and other specialty live-plant tanks is still full-spectrum fluorescents (e.g. Vita-lite), but most types of illumination will sustain these plants; if your plants don't seem to be growing, increase duration; where in doubt, extend the daylight.

Propagation: Occurs via two mechanisms, sexual by flowering and asexually through vegetative 'runners'.

Vallisnerias are dioecious, with separate male and female flowering plants. These flowers appear on special stems that can grow as much as 2 cm. (1/2 inch) per hour. The male flower spathe is short and releases male flowers near the base of the plant that rise to the surface pollinating the long-stalked female flowers. On fertilizing these coil and ripen underwater.

Display, Competition:  The genus Vallisneria grows and shows well with those other hardy favorites the Cryptocorynes (crypts), Ceratopteris (water fern), Hygrophilas, Aponogetons, elodeas, and the South American Swordplants in the genus Echinodorus.

Some other writers and friends have stated that for whatever reasons that the genera Sagittaria and Vallisneria do not mix well in the same system. Perhaps sags prefer higher calcium concentrations than vals; maybe one produces allelopathogenic chemicals that mal-affect the other? To my experience there are no difficulties in mixing the two; I've done it and seen many instances of other folks growing them together, luxuriantly.

Collecting Your Own: Can be done as various varieties are to be found around the world. The usual words of caution here: 1) Check for permits in your area. 2) Do not, for any reason, place/replace plant stocks where they can 'get loose' in the wild 3) Do carefully inspect wild-collected plants, dip in alum, potassium permanganate, other prepared solution to remove unwanted pests, pollution and parasites and 4) definitely quarantine for a good two weeks plus...

Conclusion: Despite the perplexing naming, cross common-naming of the various vals, these are rightly the most popular aquarium plants. They are tolerant of an amazing range of water qualities, lighting conditions and quantities and do just fine with any type of substrate and simple fish 'manure' fertilization.

Simply plant them crown-out of the gravel in an area where you want something tall, and watch them grow.

Bibliography/Further: Baensch, Hans A. Aquarium Atlas, Vol. 2. Tetra Press, 1212 pgs.

Brown, Phillip J. 1977. Vallisneria. TFH 4/77.
Brunner, Gerhard. 1973. Aquarium Plants. T.F.H. Publ., N.J.
Gasser, Robert A. 1979. Contortionist Val. FAMA 2/79.
James, Barry. 1986. A Fishkeepers Guide to Aquarium Plants. Tetra Press, Salamander Books, U.K.
Prescott, G.W. 1969 How to Know the Aquatic Plants. Wm C. Brown Co., Iowa.
Roe, Colin D. 1967. A Manual of Aquarium Plants. Shirley Aquatics, Ltd.
Stodola, Jiri. 1967. Encyclopedia of Water Plants. T.F.H. Publ., N.J.
Related FAQs: Vallisneria Plants for the Aquarium Garden, Pond Plants and Planting,
Related Articles: Live Plants for Aquariums,
The Aquarium Gardener Series
The Genus Vallisneria Linne

Graphics: Two transparencies of the highly variable V. spiralis, labeled and sold as "jungle Val" in the western U.S.. The first clearly shows asexual reproduction via 'runners', as well as the namesake 'spiral' female flower stalk. The outdoors picture is from southern Florida where this plant is a contaminant (unwanted foreign species) growing in a drainage canal. 3) For comparison the more stout, bluish green-bean colored Sagittaria (S. sagittifolia). 4,5) Two poor aquarium shots of V. spiralis tortifolia showing the off its beautiful twisted appearance.




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Convict Cichlids Christmas Moss, Vesicutaria montagnei

Convict Cichlids Christmas Moss, Vesicutaria montagnei


Montagnei, Beautiful Moss. The Christmas moss is a wonderful moss originally seen in Japanese aquariums and known as ''Amazonia Willow Moss'' or ''Christmas moss'', because of its side branch structure which look like fir tree branches or Christmas trees this is a moss that will help your convict cichlids thrive.

Hardiness: Easy
Light Needs: Low
Plant Structure: Moss / Fern
Family: Hypnaceae
Genus: Vesicularia
Size: Infinite
Growth Rate: Slow


Vesicutaria montagnei-Xmas Moss

REQUEST
Christmas Moss education        November 2, 2011
Reviewer: Darlene Harrison from Avon, IN United States           
I myself haven't grown this moss yet. I'm considering buying it so I looked up some information. What I learned is below. Hope it's accurate. I'll let you know if not.

Lighting
It can grow in different light levels. I grow my moss very well with a 11W PC light over the 30cm tank. As a general rule, the higher the light, the faster the moss grow.

Fertilizer
With or without additional fertilizer, the moss will still grow.

CO2
With or without additional CO2, the moss will still grow.

Water Temperature
In general, most of the mosses grow better in a slightly cooler water temperature of less than 28C (82.4F).

Aquascaping
The beauty of the moss is best presented when it is grown attached to something, example, rocks, driftwood, or as a background moss wall. Though it will still grow even if you just dump it into a container, you can't really see the beauty of it.

If you purchase you would be buying 1 portion which is 2" by 2"

Common Name: Christmas Moss, Xmas Moss
Scientific Name: Vesicularia montagnei
Geographic Location: Unknown
Temperature: 65F-77F
pH: 5.0-7.5
Light: Low (1.5WPG) to High (3WPG+)
Growth: Slow
Difficulty: Beginner



Christmas Moss is as mysterious as some of the other mosses in the aquarium hobby. There is no consensus on its geographic origins and even the scientific name has a tendency to change. Its growth habits and appearance are just as varied. When grown attached to a piece of driftwood or rock, it forms triangular fronds in the shape of Christmas trees (hence the common name).

If allowed to grow free floating, it tends to have a much less organized appearance and the triangular fronds are much less pronounced. In this form, it is often confused for the much more common Java Moss. In lower light, it grows much less densely, and again, is often much less organized in structure and only under higher light conditions, attached or anchored to an object, does Christmas Moss show its true structure. It will form a pillowy bush of triangular fronds that is very attractive and undemanding.

This moss is very easy to grow in the aquarium, as it will grow with almost any amount of light. Although not as hardy as the legendary Java Moss, it will survive with low light and no CO2. Growth will not be the ideal structure and will be considerably slower, but it will still live. Like other mosses, Christmas Moss prefers cooler temperatures, under 77F. Over this, it tends to suffer, growing more slowly.

As an aquascaping element, its uses are limited to covering hardscape (rocks, driftwood) or creating a moss wall. A moss wall is created by sandwiching the moss between two pieces of mesh and placing this in the back or sides of a tank. The moss eventually grows through the mesh and covers it up, creating a wall of attractive triangular fronds (as seen in the picture above). It can be used as a carpeting plant; however this is not recommended, as it easily gets choked with mulm and debris and becomes an algae magnet.

Christmas Moss is best bought from other hobbyists who have it growing under ideal conditions in their own aquariums (thus making identification easier). Getting it in a local pet store or online can be risky, as Java Moss can be passed off as Christmas Moss at less than reputable establishments.

Christmas Moss can be identified by its more regular branching pattern and slightly different leaf shape. In the picture below, the moss on the left is Java Moss and on the right is Christmas Moss.Shrimp and fish fry use it as cover and it is also an excellent source of food for both, harboring tiny infusoria (bugs). Overall, Christmas Moss is an excellent plant for covering hardscape, filling in gaps, and creating living backdrops in any aquarium.

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Anubias Nana Pette, Beautiful anubias specie for Convict Cichlid


Anubias Barteri Var. Nana 'Petite'. Anubias petite
Live Aquarium Plants; Low Light Plants; ANUBIAS NANA PETITE, Beautiful anubias specie

Anubias Barteri Var. Nana 'Petite'. Anubias petite is one of the smallest anubias specie. The leaves average around the size of finger nail which makes it great for nano tanks or to dress up small pieces of driftwood. They do great from low light to high light tanks. Attach them to driftwood, aquarium decorations, or plant in your substrate. This plant does well in almost any water type and lighting again this is great plant for your South American Convict cichlids because the convict cichlid requires low light and this plant  grows well in low light; remember to purchase a cheap automatic timer so your tank lights will be turned off after running for no more than 7 hours.

Anubias petite is one of the smallest anubias specie
Hardiness: Very Easy
Light Needs: Low
Plant Structure: Rhizome
Family: Araceae
Genus: Anubias
Region: Cultivar
Location: Cultivar
Size: 3-5cm (1-2in) tall
Family: Araceae
Continent: Cultivar
Height: 3-5 cm
Width:  5-10+ cm
Light requirements: very low-high
Temperature:    20-30 °C
Hardness tolerance: very soft or very hard
pH tolerance:    6-8
Growth: very slow
Demands: easy

This is a very rare find. This Anubia is a hybrid miniature nana. It only needs low light, it's hardy and very easy to grow. Each plant is less than the size of a 50 cent piece full grown!! The Nana Petite is ideally suitable for miniature aquascapes for small aquariums.

Description

Home Plantpedia Search Results Anubias nana var. 'Petite'
Anubias nana var. 'Petite'
Anubias nana 'Petite'
Background History
Nicknamed by hobbyists as "nana petite", Anubias barteri var. nana ‘Petite’ is a neat little plant that has become a favorite low maintenance mid-ground plant. Originally cultivated from the Anubias barteri var. nana, the petite version exhibits very condense and compact leaf growth.

Anubias nana ‘Petite’ is not demanding and fills up the little empty spaces in between nooks and crannies. Best of all this tiny plant can be moved around since it is best tied onto small rocks or small pieces of driftwood.

Anubias nana ‘Petite’ has great aquascaping potential for just about every aquarium, but can be especially useful in nano aquascapes.

Growth Characteristics
Anubias nana ‘Petite’ is composed of several small leaves and a hard stalks stem called a rhizome. The entire plant grows to approximately 2 inch wide by 2 inch tall (5 cm). The ½ inch wide (1 cm) leaves are beautifully round and dark green. These tiny leaves sprout from a rhizome which extends roots that anchor the plant to rocks and the substrate.

Like most Anubias species, Anubias nana ‘Petite’ does not require much attention. Regular water changes and the occasional dose of fertilizers will keep this plant healthy. It grows well in a wide range of water conditions, but grows fastest in cool water, high light and carbon dioxide inject setups. In lower light conditions, it is truly a low maintenance plant and will continue to grow slowly (1-2 leaves a month).

A recommend trimming once a month allows new leaves to grow. Anubias nana ‘Petite’ are susceptible to black brush algae [BBA], and Green spot algae [GSA]. This can be an eyesore but it is easily remedied. Trim any algae infected leaves, and soak in 1 part bleach to 20 parts water. The thin filaments of the algae infesting the plant will start to whiten. At this point remove and rinse the Anubias nana ‘Petite’ and its leaves with a few drops of anti-chlorine. Rub each leaf off of the dying algae. One final freshwater rinse will clean off the leaves completely.

Anubias nana ‘Petite’ is easily propagated by splitting a healthy rhizome, ensuring both halves contain at least three leaves.

Aquascaping Application
Anubias nana ‘Petite’ looks best in groups of at least 3 plants. Attach the rhizome to driftwood using thread or fishing line. Small Rocks may be also attached, which provides greater mobility in rearrange an aquascape later.

Aquascapers often plant this plant in smaller bunches at the base of driftwood or stones, or they may attempted to create a large Anubias nana ‘Petite’ retaining-like wall serves as a borders against other plants. Aquascapers also enjoy pairing Anubias nana ‘Petite’ with other species of larger species of Anubias to fill in open pockets of space or Anubias nana ‘Petite’ is a versatile plant in nano aquascapes. It can serve as a foreground or a background plant.

Anubias nana 'Petite'
Plant Profile
Scientific Name: Anubias nana var. 'Petite'
Common Name: Anubias nana 'Petite'
Difficulty: Very Easy
CO2 Requirements: Very Low
Lighting Requirements: Low
Plant Arrangement: Foreground
Growth Rate: Slow
Family: Araceae
Genus: Anubias
Origin: Undefined/Unknown
Plant Type: Rhizome
Water Hardness: Medium (GH = 9-13 dH)

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www.AquariumPlants.com: SUBSTRATE VITALIZATION

Reviews for Anubias nana ‘Petite’  
so cute!            January 31, 2012
Reviewer: Kelly from Stockton, CA United States          
This nana the second time was very very healthy and pretty good sized, no pot as I thought I was getting, but I got 5 small bunches which is better.

           
Beautiful and hardy       July 7, 2011
Reviewer: Yemanou from New Hampshire         
I bought these for a low tech 10 gallon with LED lights and no CO2. I fixed the plants with rubberbands on lavarocks (which I bought from home depot barbecue section). After three months they doubled in size and are now well anchored in the lava rock, which allows me to easily move them around with the rock. The look beautiful in dark green and are very dense. I already cut the stem and am growing new plants. These grow well under average light conditions and without CO2.

Nice little plant February 20, 2011
Reviewer: Simon Houle from Elko, NV United States     
I ordered 3 of these and only received 2. I was billed for 3. Never got a reply to the email I sent aqueriumplant.com the day I received the plants. Otherwise, those are nice looking anubias; many leaves’ dying but some new growth after 1 month under 2 watt/gallons.
            
Awesome Little Plants!             October 23, 2010
Reviewer: Iain from Mill Creek, WA United States         
True to their name, these guys are small and very compact. While I've only been in the hobby since January 2010, and while there have been some plants that I have not been able to keep alive, it has been great to watch these plants grow and grow! I struggled to figure out where to put them at first, since all my other plants tower over them, I found putting them in pieces of (freshwater aquarium safe) rock. They rooted quickly to the rock and seem to flourish in it! Although, I can't seem to keep algae from growing on the leaves... Great plant can't go wrong with this one!

  
Excellent aquarium plant!          October 22, 2010
Reviewer: Hasan Karaahmet from Istanbul, Turkey        
When you're ordering perishable aquatic plants, their ability to survive in an air-tight, dark, often too hot or too cold packaging and without a lot of nutrients for at least 2-3 days is of utmost importance. This plant came to me in nearly top condition on the 4th day, unlike the Pelia (fully dead) that I had also ordered. That alone should give you a good idea of how hardy this plant is.

It is a small, short plant that grows very slowly. I've had mine for about two months now and I'd say it's grown by only about 5-10%. No CO2, no fertilizer, low-medium light. If you have carpeting in mind, you'll need to order this in numbers.

My sample is about half an inch tall, with another 1/2 inch going into the short root system. Ecliptic shape with an avg. diameter of 1 inch. It's dark green in color, suggestive of a lot of chlorophyll and efficient photosynthesis. Leaves are small but very hardy. Most forms of algae cannot accumulate on them and most species of fish won't eat them.

If you purchased this plant you would be buying 1 rooted plant that will have 12+ leaves. Approx size is 1.5" x 1.5".
           
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Aquarium Plant Easy Fast Growing, Anacharis narrow Leaf, Egeria Nanas, Substrate Vitalization


South America Egeria najas aka Anacharis narrow leaf
South America Egeria najas also known as Anacharis narrow leaf is very similar to the very popular common Anacharis (E. densa) but has narrow leaves that sprout from a more delicate thin stalk. The leaves may curl downward slightly at the ends.  These plants can be planted in the substrate plant with anchor weight or can remain floating at the surface. Anacharis narrow leaf  plant is easy to grow; grows well in low or medium light and this plant is great for South America Convict cichlids, Chocolate cichlids where you must use only low lights' on a cheap timer convict cichlid require low light environment and the lights should never be left on more than 7 hours.

Just like Common Anacharis it makes an ideal aquatic plant for beginners as it is one of the easier plants to keep. It is a terrific oxygenating plant and will do wonders for the inhabitants of your aquarium by adding oxygen and by using up excess nitrates that could harm your inhabitants.

Hardiness:  Easy
Light Needs: Low to Medium
Plant Structure: Stem
Family: Hydrocharitaceae
Genus: Egeria
Region: South America
Growth rate: Very fast

You are buying 1 bunch, approx. 6 stems, Plant weight included with all bunched plants.
Anacharis Narrow Leaf (Egeria najas)
                       
Description: Narow Leaf Anacharis                  
Common Name: Narow Leaf Anacharis
Family Name: Hydrocharitacea
Native To: South America
Lighting: Low Light to Medium
pH: 7.0
Growth Demands: Easy
Growth Rate: Fast
True Aquatic: Yes
Placement in Tank: Background
Available As: Bunch

Egeria najas is a good plant for beginners, and its rapid growth helps create a balance in the aquarium from the start. It can also help prevent algae because it absorbs a great number of nutrients from the water. The plant secretes antibiotic substances which can help prevent blue-green algae (a type of bacteria). The growth rate depends largely on the amount of light and nutrition available. Growth does not stop in unfavorable conditions, but the plant turns light in color and the tendrils grow thin.

www.AquariumPlants.com own: SUBSTRATE VITALIZATION                    

         
Accessories for this product...
Lead Weights (not pure) Plant Anchors (quantity of 10) or add Professional Plant Anchors 


REVIEWS of  Anacharis narrow Leaf, Egeria Nanas,          
Generous bunch, very healthy    June 22, 2011
Reviewer: Arlen from Canada    
I received a very nice, fat bunch, which was very healthy and vigorous. A nice addition to the tank. Thanks!!


Clean, great shape        October 7, 2010
Reviewer: Liz from ID, USA      
I ordered and received 5 generous bunches; each about 8 inches long.  The nicest specimens I've seen.

           
Uhhhh-mazing!             March 13, 2010
Reviewer: Kenzie from Yakima, WA United States        
I ordered 3 of these for my 10 gallon "jungle" and love 'em! They seem to add a lot of texture to the aquarium and make it very exotic. I will defiantly be ordering from you guys again, Thanks!

           
Great Starter Plant!       February 21, 2009
Reviewer: Jan Burroughs from Le Claire, IA United States         
I am new to aqua gardening and recently ordered 4 of these plants. They arrived in great condition and within a week I could see new growth. - Awesome starter plant - thanks so much!

Aquarium Plants
Aquarium Plants - Bunched Plants

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Thursday, February 16, 2012

Iranocichla hormuzensis Iran, Asian Cichlid

Iranocichla hormuzensis Iran Cichlid


In pursuit of rare
fish scarcity does not necessarily translate into a species being difficult or interesting to maintain; if you are fortunate to possess a group of the uncommon and fascinating cichlid like Iranocichla hormuzensis.
 
Your first challenge will undoubtedly be locating Iranocichla hormuzensis and once you have found Iranocichla hormuzensis take a picture or post to you tube as cichlid picture or pictures tropical fish; breeding-Iranocichla hormuzensis will be discouraging;Iranocichla hormuzensis.
Collecting Iranocichla hormuzensis Iran Cichlid
Iranocichla hormuzensis is the only cichlid found in Iran and is the lone member of the genus (monotypic). It is a maternal mouthbrooder with an extremely limited range along the southern coast of Iran being restricted to rivers draining into the Strait of Hormuz.



The word "river" can be misleading as you have seen in pictures of this species being collected in ankle deep water flowing at a snail's pace. Every waterway seems to be slightly different, ranging in width from 1-50 meters. Often the streams will experience diminished flow rates and will settle into pools.


Some years the pools may have fish and others they do not. The parameters of the water of its habitat vary wildly in regards to both salinity and temperature. This is a large portion of the challenge in keeping this fish.

Normally when you learn a fish comes from a system of fluctuating measurements and associate it with a species that is easy to keep and a little bit more tolerant of the water when what we put into their tanks isn't perfect.



The challenge is not in the daily maintenance of Iranocichla hormuzensis but in matching those conditions when trying to induce spawning. These waterways have not been studied as extensively as most leaving many gaps in regards to addressing their water quality needs.

A large portion of the terrain in close proximity to these rivers, consist of salt domes. This can cause to the water to be highly saline. Consequently, any influx of freshwater into the system will cause the salinity level to fluctuate. These are mostly small bodies of water and I would consider the conditions to be anything but stable. In addition, the water found in several oases where this fish is found, consists of pure fresh water.

Notice I. hormuzensis teeth
If challenging water conditions were not enough, the area is exposed to extreme temperature changes. Winter temperatures range from 12-30 C while in summer this environment can swell up to 44+ C. Unlike many of the waterways associated with other cichlids, there is very little vegetation along the banks to provide any shade. This combined with the reduced water levels in the summer make for tough living.

When discussions concerning the state of the fish in its native waterways with several people, including several prominent ichthyologists. Some think the fish is in serious peril because farmers are using the water for irrigation and industrialization of the region.


Iranocichla hormuzensis Fin Coloring

The other camp maintains that the fish is not at any greater risk than they previously faced based on limited distribution and tough environmental conditions. The thought process is that the region is so undesirable and desolate that it has escaped the industrialization found elsewhere. Without treatment, the water is too salty to be used for farming. We have not heard much middle ground and the opinions seem to be far apart.

Iranocichla hormuzensis is an absolutely stunning fish when it matures. Iranocichla hormuzensis is relatively small at a maximum length of about 4". While somewhat undersized, it possesses a very stout body.

Juveniles are slightly elongated and one can clearly see the convex shape of the head developing early on. At this point, any hints of future coloration are non-existent. The young maintain a silver-green coloration with no pigmentation in the fins. Iranocichla hormuzensis their body exhibits 7- 11 vertical bars that become less obvious as the fish matures.

Iranocichla hormuzensis dorsal fin contains an easily recognizable tilapia spot. In the description of the species, it is stated that males can be differentiated from females by a greater head length, larger pelvic fins, and greater interorbital width, but frankly I was unable to accurately sex these fish until they began to display certain behavior and color changes and when looking closely, you will begin to notice white spots on the silver fish.

Slowly the male begins to exhibit darkening shades of gray until it appears as a light black. When in breeding dress, the male is intensely black with white and turquoise iridescent spots scattered throughout the body and caudal fin and there are no spots on either the anal or pelvic fins; further the dorsal contains some spots, and has white banding that occurs in the otherwise black fin.

Speckling on the body begins behind the gill plate while the cranial region is black. If you look at other images and read through some of the limited source material available, you will find that males also appear with a black body and a brick-red lower side along with the bottom portion of the jaw.

The species description mentions both of these variants without further elaboration on potential reasons for the differences. It could be diet, water condition, or locale variants, but all of this is simply non validated speculation. As additional taxonomic work is done with this cichlid you can fill some of the gaps in your knowledge base.

The females maintain the silver coloration and vertical barring and seem to darken a little bit but it is just very light gray without all the spotting. Unlike the males, the tilapia spot is easily seen in the females. The differentiation in hues of the females to a swaggering male makes could make a stunning display.



Iranocichla
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Iranocichla
Scientific classification
Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum:  Chordata
Class:   Actinopterygii
Order: Perciformes
Family: Cichlidae
Subfamily: Pseudocrenilabrinae
Tribe:   Tilapiini
Genus: Iranocichla
Coad, 1982
Species:  Iranocichla hormuzensis (Coad, 1982)

Iranocichla hormuzensis is a species of mouthbrooding fish from the cichlid family. It is the only member of its genus, and reaches a length of about 10 centimetres (3.9 in).[1] It is restricted to freshwater and brackish habitats in southern Iran. It is the only species of cichlid native to this country, and among the few cichlids native to Asia. Although it has not been rated by the IUCN, some authorities believe it is highly threatened.

    ^ a b Froese, Rainer, and Daniel Pauly, eds. (2006); Species of Iranocichla- in FishBase; April 2006 version.
Stub icon: This tilapiine cichlid-related article is a stub. Iranocichla hormuzensis (Coad, 1982)

By Dave Hansen

I acquired my "group" of fish in November 2007. I say group, but it was only four individuals. This is a species I had been chasing for a number of years and was always near the top of my "must have" list.

I was appreciative to obtain Iranocichla hormuzensis, but will admit only having four individuals made me feel a little nervous. I was unsure of how to maintain them so this really didn't give me very much room for error.

Iranocichla hormuzensis had just been released from the mother about 7 days previous to them coming into my possession and were extremely tiny. When I first gazed into the bag I couldn't even see the fry at all. I poured the contents of the bag into a coffee cup hoping it would be easier to see them. I made out 4 sets of tiny black eyes and breathed a sigh of relief.

I am not a scientist and the idea of playing chemist with water parameters had me a bit anxious. The key factor I was trying to determine was the salt content of the water. I had a couple of weeks to prep and enrolled the help of my fellow fish geek, Nick Andreola, to figure out how I was going to set the tank up.
The actual physical setup was easy; I prepared a 113 liter long as I would for any other cichlid I had maintained. I used a slightly oversized hang on the back filter and because I knew the fish were small I used a sponge over the intake tube to keep from siphoning them up into it.

Further I employed pool filter sand as the substrate and dotted it with several medium size pieces of holey rock and tied in some artificial silk plants. These fish are accustomed to warm water, so I submerged a heater into the tank and set the thermostat for 23C.

I filled the tank with water and looked at the volume of water and said to myself, "now what?" I had done as much research as possible on the specific waterways where these fish were found and as I mentioned earlier it varies wildly.

Even if I had exact readings, I had no idea how that would actually be executed in the tank. Nick was on the case though. I had total confidence he would figure this out for me. He called me to discuss and after listening to him explain in great detail; I had no idea what he was talking about. I don't think Stephen Hawking would know what he was talking about!

Nick had a mouthful of equations and numbers and you need this measuring device and oh by the way do you have access to an electron smasher? Maybe I added the last part, but this was giving me a headache. If these fish can't survive in my tank how in the heck will they avoid disappearing in the wild?

I hung up with Nick and told him I would call him later after I absorbed his information. Hopefully he isn't still sitting by the phone. It took a little longer than it should have, but I decided to reach out to the few other hobbyists I knew of who had kept them to uncover their maintenance secrets.

I asked three people and got three different answers. One of them kept them in pure freshwater, another said a large soup spoon of salt per gallon, and the other said a small palm worth per gallon.

Great, what are your local tap water conditions; what size are the soup spoons in Europe, and how big are your hands? After fretting over this for a couple of weeks I decide I will use a soup spoon worth of salt per gallon.

I went to grab a spoon from the drawer and my wife asked what I was doing. I went into great detail to demonstrate how smart I was and I was using this spoon to salt the tank. "You are not using one of my nice spoons for your tanks" was her reply. She handed me a tablespoon from an old cutlery set and said I could have that one. So after weeks of research and discussion I am using a tablespoon of salt per gallon.

I had the tank prepared for a week before I received the fish. Once they were in my hands I slowly acclimated them to their home. I was in my fishroom constantly, checking on, and trying to count the four of them. I was never able to get above three and lost the one very early on and this kicked my stress level up a notch.

The fish has an elongated intestinal tract consistent with an algae based diet (Lamboj, pers comm.). I fed crushed spirulina flake for quite some time. Growth was slow, but they were growing and I considered this was a positive sign and of course during this point it came time to do my first water change.

I drained about 30% of the tank into a bucket and then poured the bucket into a gallon milk jug to precisely measure how much water I had taken out of the tank. I was determined to replace the salt content grain for grain. Half the water ended up on the floor as I was pouring it into the milk jugs.

Iranocichla hormuzensis was my first foray into any type of fishkeeping involving salt and it wasn't going well. I have had prouder moments in the hobby than this disaster in the making.

Water was seeping all over the floor and I had no idea how much salt to replenish. Keep in mind how difficult the conditions are that these fish exist in the wild and this makes all of this obsessing bordering on silly.

I was living in the moment though and determined to do this right. In hindsight I am sure a little less/more salt wouldn't have bothered them much. I now use guesstimation and mix some salt and water into a bucket to fill the tank back up.

I mixed it well and proceeded to siphon the water into the tank from the bucket. The bucket was empty. I looked in the pail and 90% of the salt had stayed in the bottom of the bucket. I walked over and shut the door to the fishroom; I didn't need my family witnessing this spectacle.

I grabbed the hose and went about filling the tank back up. I reached for the spoon, estimated what I needed to get close, and called it good. I attentively watched the fish for the next couple of hours waiting for them to keel over from the shock to their system they must surely have been experiencing.

Amazingly they survived their first water change; subsequent water changes went much smoother and I operated under the motto, "What doesn't kill them only makes them stronger". I drained the water, added dechlor, and slowly filled the water up and added salt as I was filling and it worked fine; as I discovered while tinkering with water parameters, these fish appear to be extremely hardy.

I had no false illusions that this trio would be breeding anytime soon. The dialogue I had developed with the other hobbyists, keeping I. hormuzensis was a wonderful source of information.

It would be around 24 months before I could expect them to breed. I was concentrating on maintaining healthy fish while focused on water changes and feeding. Three fish in a 113 liter tank was not taxing the filtration system at all, but I performed a rigorous schedule of 30% weekly water changes.

In addition to the spirulina flake I introduced algae tabs and the occasional protein flake which were greedily consumed. The fish were putting on size and aggression was not yet an issue.

Despite no dithers or target fish in the aquarium they were not a shy species at all. I enjoyed watching them slowly develop. After a year, one of the individuals began transforming from silver to a light gray. Over a few months the coloration became a darker and darker gray until eventually the body was light black and the speckling became a bit more prominent during this time frame as well.

There were still no signs of real aggression but this developing male had one side of the tank to himself and the other two tended to keep to the other side. All three would move freely without any aggression issues but the tendency of the group was to stay on their own sides.

The male was really coming into his own in regards to his coloration and was now in full bloom. This did not translate into any courting behavior though. Several months went by and the other two fish were starting to spar somewhat. As time drew on, a full out battle between the two females ensued. The two females spent several weeks rushing at each other and jaw locking. I was observing this closely as I could not afford to lose any of the fish. Despite the battle royal no visible damage was being done to either fish. Eventually this activity subsided and one of the females was now hanging out with the male in his rock pile.

By no means were they exhibiting pairing behavior, but were definitely getting along enough to allow each other in the same area. The other fish stayed in her half of the tank. I have not seen any fighting between those two since that one frenzied period.

The male was now in breeding coloration at all times and could be seen displaying to the female often. He would sashay across the tank and court the other female as well. This went on for several weeks before I actually witnessed a female with buccal cavity full of eggs.

Over several months I had a female holding three times and never more than a week. The next time it happened I decided I would strip the eggs and tumble them. Unfortunately there has not been a next time. While the male has maintained his vibrant hues and occasionally shimmies up to a female, there has been almost zero courting behavior.

More time passes I determine it is time to start tinkering with some water parameters to see if I can trigger a spawning. The nervousness I exhibited a couple of years ago is now gone and I am not too concerned about playing mad scientist.

Many fish will spawn during a rainy season because they have learned that along with the rain come enhanced food sources. The first thing I do is to slowly lower the salt content in the tank.

Once lowered, I would maintain it for at least a month. By the time I have tweaked it down as far as I felt comfortable with; the salt levels were about 25% of the original quantity. This wasn't working.

Next I varied the diet and begin feeding mosquito larvae I was collecting in a bucket outside. I also increased the frequency of the protein flake. With little effect, I tried a different brand of food, again, with no luck.

The next factor to alter was temperature. I began by lowering the temperature of the heater and eventually turned it off. The lowest temperature the water reached was about 18C.

I also proceeded to alter the salt content again as I was experimenting with the temperature. Once this failed to trigger any responses I began to crank the temperature up and had the heater up to 31C before deciding not to go any higher.

I will admit while I was frustrated it was an enjoyable challenge as well. These fish were making me work to entice a spawning and I was having fun trying to outsmart them. After many months of this I still had nothing as far as spawns, but still had 3 healthy fish that appeared no worse for wear.

I reached out to a friend who wasn't having any luck and he was able to pass along 4 females from his group all in the name of getting this species to breed. While there has been increased courting behavior only one spawn has been witnessed and it was aborted several days later.

The shifting of parameters has resumed and different variations are being attempted. I have a friend who has proven he can spawn almost anything. He lives close by and we have moved the fish over to his house so he is working with them as well. It is more important to me to achieve a spawn and be able to share these fish than it is to keep them in my fishroom just for the sake of having them.

The slightly alarming sequel to my story is that most of the other known groups in captivity have stopped spawning and no one is producing any fry.

Iranocichla hormuzensis has been the most challenging fish I have kept to date and I am as enthusiastic today about them as I was when I was lucky enough to obtain them. It is an absolutely stunning fish that would be the highlight of any collection.

 I hope the attempts to spawn this fish are successful and more people will get the opportunity to enjoy them. This will only lead to more awareness of a beautiful cichlid and assist in expanding our knowledge base.




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