Anubias Nana Pette, Beautiful anubias specie for Convict Cichlid

Anubias Barteri Var. Nana 'Petite'. Anubias petite

Live Aquarium Plants; Low Light Plants; ANUBIAS NANA PETITE, Beautiful anubias specie

Anubias Barteri Var. Nana 'Petite'. Anubias petite is one of the smallest anubias specie. The leaves average around the size of finger nail which makes it great for nano tanks or to dress up small pieces of driftwood. They do great from low light to high light tanks. Attach them to driftwood, aquarium decorations, or plant in your substrate. This plant does well in almost any water type and lighting again this is great plant for your South American Convict cichlids because the convict cichlid requires low light and this plant  grows well in low light; remember to purchase a cheap automatic timer so your tank lights will be turned off after running for no more than 7 hours.

Anubias petite is one of the smallest anubias specie

Hardiness: Very Easy

Light Needs: Low

Plant Structure: Rhizome

Family: Araceae

Genus: Anubias

Region: Cultivar

Location: Cultivar

Size: 3-5cm (1-2in) tall

Family: Araceae

Continent: Cultivar

Height: 3-5 cm

Width:  5-10+ cm

Light requirements: very low-high

Temperature:    20-30 °C

Hardness tolerance: very soft or very hard

pH tolerance:    6-8

Growth: very slow

Demands: easy

This is a very rare find. This Anubia is a hybrid miniature nana. It only needs low light, it's hardy and very easy to grow. Each plant is less than the size of a 50 cent piece full grown!! The Nana Petite is ideally suitable for miniature aquascapes for small aquariums.

Description

Home Plantpedia Search Results Anubias nana var. 'Petite'

Anubias nana var. 'Petite'

Anubias nana 'Petite'

Background History

Nicknamed by hobbyists as "nana petite", Anubias barteri var. nana ‘Petite’ is a neat little plant that has become a favorite low maintenance mid-ground plant. Originally cultivated from the Anubias barteri var. nana, the petite version exhibits very condense and compact leaf growth.

Anubias nana ‘Petite’ is not demanding and fills up the little empty spaces in between nooks and crannies. Best of all this tiny plant can be moved around since it is best tied onto small rocks or small pieces of driftwood.

Anubias nana ‘Petite’ has great aquascaping potential for just about every aquarium, but can be especially useful in nano aquascapes.

Growth Characteristics

Anubias nana ‘Petite’ is composed of several small leaves and a hard stalks stem called a rhizome. The entire plant grows to approximately 2 inch wide by 2 inch tall (5 cm). The ½ inch wide (1 cm) leaves are beautifully round and dark green. These tiny leaves sprout from a rhizome which extends roots that anchor the plant to rocks and the substrate.

Like most Anubias species, Anubias nana ‘Petite’ does not require much attention. Regular water changes and the occasional dose of fertilizers will keep this plant healthy. It grows well in a wide range of water conditions, but grows fastest in cool water, high light and carbon dioxide inject setups. In lower light conditions, it is truly a low maintenance plant and will continue to grow slowly (1-2 leaves a month).

A recommend trimming once a month allows new leaves to grow. Anubias nana ‘Petite’ are susceptible to black brush algae [BBA], and Green spot algae [GSA]. This can be an eyesore but it is easily remedied. Trim any algae infected leaves, and soak in 1 part bleach to 20 parts water. The thin filaments of the algae infesting the plant will start to whiten. At this point remove and rinse the Anubias nana ‘Petite’ and its leaves with a few drops of anti-chlorine. Rub each leaf off of the dying algae. One final freshwater rinse will clean off the leaves completely.

Anubias nana ‘Petite’ is easily propagated by splitting a healthy rhizome, ensuring both halves contain at least three leaves.

Aquascaping Application

Anubias nana ‘Petite’ looks best in groups of at least 3 plants. Attach the rhizome to driftwood using thread or fishing line. Small Rocks may be also attached, which provides greater mobility in rearrange an aquascape later.

Aquascapers often plant this plant in smaller bunches at the base of driftwood or stones, or they may attempted to create a large Anubias nana ‘Petite’ retaining-like wall serves as a borders against other plants. Aquascapers also enjoy pairing Anubias nana ‘Petite’ with other species of larger species of Anubias to fill in open pockets of space or Anubias nana ‘Petite’ is a versatile plant in nano aquascapes. It can serve as a foreground or a background plant.

Anubias nana 'Petite'

Plant Profile

Scientific Name: Anubias nana var. 'Petite'

Common Name: Anubias nana 'Petite'

Difficulty: Very Easy

CO2 Requirements: Very Low

Lighting Requirements: Low

Plant Arrangement: Foreground

Growth Rate: Slow

Family: Araceae

Genus: Anubias

Origin: Undefined/Unknown

Plant Type: Rhizome

Water Hardness: Medium (GH = 9-13 dH)

Accessories for this product...

Lead Weights (not pure) Plant Anchors (quantity of 10) or Professional Plant Anchors)

www.AquariumPlants.com: SUBSTRATE VITALIZATION

Reviews for Anubias nana ‘Petite’  

so cute!            January 31, 2012

Reviewer: Kelly from Stockton, CA United States          

This nana the second time was very very healthy and pretty good sized, no pot as I thought I was getting, but I got 5 small bunches which is better.

           

Beautiful and hardy       July 7, 2011

Reviewer: Yemanou from New Hampshire         

I bought these for a low tech 10 gallon with LED lights and no CO2. I fixed the plants with rubberbands on lavarocks (which I bought from home depot barbecue section). After three months they doubled in size and are now well anchored in the lava rock, which allows me to easily move them around with the rock. The look beautiful in dark green and are very dense. I already cut the stem and am growing new plants. These grow well under average light conditions and without CO2.

Nice little plant February 20, 2011

Reviewer: Simon Houle from Elko, NV United States     

I ordered 3 of these and only received 2. I was billed for 3. Never got a reply to the email I sent aqueriumplant.com the day I received the plants. Otherwise, those are nice looking anubias; many leaves’ dying but some new growth after 1 month under 2 watt/gallons.

            

Awesome Little Plants!             October 23, 2010

Reviewer: Iain from Mill Creek, WA United States         

True to their name, these guys are small and very compact. While I've only been in the hobby since January 2010, and while there have been some plants that I have not been able to keep alive, it has been great to watch these plants grow and grow! I struggled to figure out where to put them at first, since all my other plants tower over them, I found putting them in pieces of (freshwater aquarium safe) rock. They rooted quickly to the rock and seem to flourish in it! Although, I can't seem to keep algae from growing on the leaves... Great plant can't go wrong with this one!

  

Excellent aquarium plant!          October 22, 2010

Reviewer: Hasan Karaahmet from Istanbul, Turkey        

When you're ordering perishable aquatic plants, their ability to survive in an air-tight, dark, often too hot or too cold packaging and without a lot of nutrients for at least 2-3 days is of utmost importance. This plant came to me in nearly top condition on the 4th day, unlike the Pelia (fully dead) that I had also ordered. That alone should give you a good idea of how hardy this plant is.

It is a small, short plant that grows very slowly. I've had mine for about two months now and I'd say it's grown by only about 5-10%. No CO2, no fertilizer, low-medium light. If you have carpeting in mind, you'll need to order this in numbers.

My sample is about half an inch tall, with another 1/2 inch going into the short root system. Ecliptic shape with an avg. diameter of 1 inch. It's dark green in color, suggestive of a lot of chlorophyll and efficient photosynthesis. Leaves are small but very hardy. Most forms of algae cannot accumulate on them and most species of fish won't eat them.

If you purchased this plant you would be buying 1 rooted plant that will have 12+ leaves. Approx size is 1.5" x 1.5".

           

Aquarium Plant Easy Fast Growing, Anacharis narrow Leaf, Egeria Nanas, Substrate Vitalization

South America Egeria najas aka Anacharis narrow leaf

South America Egeria najas also known as Anacharis narrow leaf is very similar to the very popular common Anacharis (E. densa) but has narrow leaves that sprout from a more delicate thin stalk. The leaves may curl downward slightly at the ends.  These plants can be planted in the substrate plant with anchor weight or can remain floating at the surface. Anacharis narrow leaf  plant is easy to grow; grows well in low or medium light and this plant is great for South America Convict cichlids, Chocolate cichlids where you must use only low lights' on a cheap timer convict cichlid require low light environment and the lights should never be left on more than 7 hours.

Just like Common Anacharis it makes an ideal aquatic plant for beginners as it is one of the easier plants to keep. It is a terrific oxygenating plant and will do wonders for the inhabitants of your aquarium by adding oxygen and by using up excess nitrates that could harm your inhabitants.

Hardiness:  Easy

Light Needs: Low to Medium

Plant Structure: Stem

Family: Hydrocharitaceae

Genus: Egeria

Region: South America

Growth rate: Very fast

You are buying 1 bunch, approx. 6 stems, Plant weight included with all bunched plants.

Anacharis Narrow Leaf (Egeria najas)

                       

Description: Narow Leaf Anacharis                  

Common Name: Narow Leaf Anacharis

Family Name: Hydrocharitacea

Native To: South America

Lighting: Low Light to Medium

pH: 7.0

Growth Demands: Easy

Growth Form: Stem

Growth Rate: Fast

True Aquatic: Yes

Placement in Tank: Background

Available As: Bunch

Egeria najas is a good plant for beginners, and its rapid growth helps create a balance in the aquarium from the start. It can also help prevent algae because it absorbs a great number of nutrients from the water. The plant secretes antibiotic substances which can help prevent blue-green algae (a type of bacteria). The growth rate depends largely on the amount of light and nutrition available. Growth does not stop in unfavorable conditions, but the plant turns light in color and the tendrils grow thin.

www.AquariumPlants.com own: SUBSTRATE VITALIZATION                    

         

Accessories for this product...

Lead Weights (not pure) Plant Anchors (quantity of 10) or add Professional Plant Anchors 

REVIEWS of  Anacharis narrow Leaf, Egeria Nanas,          

Generous bunch, very healthy    June 22, 2011

Reviewer: Arlen from Canada    

I received a very nice, fat bunch, which was very healthy and vigorous. A nice addition to the tank. Thanks!!

Clean, great shape        October 7, 2010

Reviewer: Liz from ID, USA      

I ordered and received 5 generous bunches; each about 8 inches long.  The nicest specimens I've seen.

           

Uhhhh-mazing!             March 13, 2010

Reviewer: Kenzie from Yakima, WA United States        

I ordered 3 of these for my 10 gallon "jungle" and love 'em! They seem to add a lot of texture to the aquarium and make it very exotic. I will defiantly be ordering from you guys again, Thanks!

           

Great Starter Plant!       February 21, 2009

Reviewer: Jan Burroughs from Le Claire, IA United States         

I am new to aqua gardening and recently ordered 4 of these plants. They arrived in great condition and within a week I could see new growth. - Awesome starter plant - thanks so much!

Aquarium Plants

Aquarium Plants - Bunched Plants

Aquarium Fish-Keeping Cichlids, Breeding cichlids

Group Cichlids-Photo by georgiaaquarium.org

People begin keeping fresh water cichlids and purchase new aquarium because of their beauty. With the variety of colors and shapes, it's not unlike saltwater fish tank without the fuss and expense of salt water tank, without the salt or the upkeep of salt water fish tank!

However before long, some people become interested in breeding cichlids, rather than just having them. Quite often this is due to the cichlids breeding without any intervention on the aquarist's part, who thereafter becomes interested in keeping the next batch of fry.

By and large, the majority of African cichlids are mouthbrooders. This means that the eggs are actually brooded in one of the parents' mouth - typically the female cichlid's mouth. Other types of cichlids (shell dwellers for example) they are egglayer cichlids. How do you get your cichlids to breed? How can you protect the female, and ensure that the eggs hatch successfully? And then how do you protect the young from hungry predators?

The first step in breeding cichlids is to obtain fish that will breed. While this may seem obvious, it's not as simple as obtaining a male and female of the same species of tropical fish. With African cichlids, it's much better to obtain a harem, quite often referred to as a breeding colony. If you only have a pair, the male may be too aggressive towards the one available female, resulting in stress and potential death.

When you have your breeding colony, you'll want to give them a good environment. Have plenty of caves, rocks, shelves and crevices that the cichlids can choose as their territory and breeding ground. Don't bother with aquarium plants; they'll only be removed by the cichlids!

To get your African cichlids in breeding condition, you need to feed them well. I've always found spirulina flakes to be excellent quality food, as well as the occasional earthworm, white worm or crickets and live bay shrimp.

When the fish are ready to breed, you'll notice the male chase the female and do a mating dance, which consists of shimmying in front of the female. The female will drop eggs, and then proceed to pick them up in her mouth.

The male will fertilize them. It has been theorized that this is where the 'egg spots' come into play. The egg spots are the small round yellowish spots on the male's anal fin. Many feel that when the male shimmies, these look like eggs that the female hasn't yet collected. She attempts to, and the eggs that are in her mouth are able to be fertilized by the male.

The process will be repeated a number of times, until the female loses interest (just like people!). If the eggs weren't properly fertilized, they will be disposed of. If they're fertilized, they will be kept until the eggs are hatched and the yolk sacks have disappeared. This can take from three to five weeks.

If you want to keep the baby cichlids, I strongly suggest that you remove the female to a comfortable tank for the female cichlid a place of her own. This can be a smaller tank, with some rockwork for her to hide in.

You don't need to feed her, although when the eggs hatch (you'll see the wigglers in her mouth) you may want to toss in a very small amount of flake food. She may pick at it for the sake of the fry. There will be a follow-up article explaining how to strip the female cichlid, a process necessary if she won't release the eggs or if she eats them.

To feed the babies, you can crush up some flake food into a fine powder. Take a little, mix it with water. Then suck it into a straw of piece of aquarium tubing. Then insert it into the water near the swimming cichlid fry, and release it for them to eat.

Allow the female cichlid to feed back to health before putting her back in the tank. Also, try to keep the fry with her for at least 1 week.

There are over 160 genera and more than 900 species of Cichlids with newly discovered species reported on a regular basis. This group offers a huge diversity of color, behavior, size, and body shape. Cichlids are widespread throughout the world, including Africa, South America, Asia, Central America, and even North America. 

All these Cichlids come from only one family, Cichlidae, and thus are separated in this book by the geographical area from which they are found. Most Cichlids kept in captivity come from the Great African Rift Lakes, Lake Malawi or Lake Tanganyika; various African rivers, the Amazon Basin in South America, or Central America.
   

SOCIAL BEHAVIOR

 

The Cichlid Family includes a huge, diverse group of fish. Thus, it is difficult to make generalizations about this family. However, it is safe to say that many cichlids have a tendency towards aggressive behavior. This conduct can be attributed to cichlids' highly developed brood care. Other cichlids are shoaling fish which are best kept in groups like

Blue Dolphin Cichlids-Blue Moorii.

PAIRING:- several different types of bonds are formed between male and female cichlids.

These include the following:

Monogamy-The female and the male remain together after spawning.

Polygyny- The male stays together with several females

Polyandry- The female bonds with several males. This form of pairing is rare.

Agamy- No lasting bond is formed between the pair and they separate right after spawning.

BROOD CARE

Cichlids take care of their young in several different ways. Six "family" forms are common among cichlid parents.

Nuclear or Parental Family: Both parents equally share the duties of caring for the young. Nuclear families are usually formed by monogamous, open-water brooders, although exceptions are common. It is generally very difficult to distinguish between the sexes.

Matriarch/Patriarch Family: The female watches over the brood, while the male defends the territory. When the fry become free-swimming, the parents bear the tasks of parenthood equally. This family form is usually formed by monogamous, open-water brooders. Sexual dimorphism and dichromatism is common.

Patriarch/Matriarch or Male-with-Harem Family: The male defends a large territory, which includes multiple spawning sites of several females. Each female assumes the responsibility of her own brood. The male is polygamous, and clear sexual dimorphism is present. This form takes place among cavity brooders.

Matriarch Family: No bond is formed between the pair. The female cares and guards the eggs and the fry. In this family pattern, the fish are agamous and usually the female is an Ovophile mouthbrooder.

Patriarch Family: As with the Matriarch Family, no bond is formed between the parents.  The male carries the eggs and the fry. No sexual dimorphism or dichromatism can be found. Only one mouthbrooder forms a true patriarch family, Sarotherodon melanothe row.

Extended Family: The parents as well as the offspring of previous spawning care for the young. Extended Families are formed by cavity brooders of Lake Tanganyika, including the fish belonging to the genera Julidochromis and Neolamprologus. 

BREEDING

Cichlids have highly developed brood care and reproductive behavior. Nearly all Cichlids lay their eggs on some substrate, whether it be rocks, plants, or sand. Cichlids are now characterized into two breeding groups; Open and Shelter Brooders.

Open brooders lay eggs on an open surface, such as rocks, sand, and plants. The eggs can number as high as 10,000 from one laying. These eggs are usually small and clump together. Clear sexual dimorphism and dichromatism is usually evident. Examples of open water brooders include Pterophyllum, Symphysodon, and most species of Cichlasoma.

Shelter brooders can be divided up into two groups; cavity brooders and mouth brooders. Thereby in general, shelter brooders lay substantially less eggs, usually not more than 300, and have larger more colorful eggs. These fish are easier to sex because males are larger and more colorful.

Cavity brooders lay their eggs in caves. The parents participate in brood care and may become aggressive towards other fish while caring for the eggs and the fry. Examples of cavity brooders include Apistogramma, Julidochromis, Neolamprologus, and Pelvicachromis.

Mouth-brooders are fish that, at some point during brood care, will take their eggs or the fry into their mouths. Mouth-brooders are divided up into two further categories depending on when the parents take the eggs/fry are taken into the mouth. 

Ovophile or "egg-loving" mouth-brooders - The male makes a pit in his territory, where the eggs are laid. The eggs are sucked up into the female's mouth usually, but occasionally, during spawning. After hatching the fry remain in the safety of the mother's mouth until they can fend for themselves.

The male, of some of these species, often has colorful, oval-shaped marks on its anal fin. These spots serve an important role in the fertilization of the eggs and are known as egg spots or egg dummies.

After the female has laid her eggs and sucks them into her mouth. She sees the eggs spots on the males, and thinking they were eggs she missed, will try to suck them up. At this moment the male releases sperm which the female sucks up into her mouth, thus fertilizing the eggs. Such as Ovophile mouthbrooders include- Aulonocara, Haplochromis, and Pseudotropheus.

Larvophile or "larvae-loving" mouth-brooders lay their eggs on a substrate. After the eggs hatch, the female picks up the fry and keeps them in her mouth. Sometimes the parental protection stops after the fry are released from the mouth; Examples of Larvophile mouth-brooders are Geophagus and Sarotherodon.

DUMMY-EGG SPOTS

Many cichlids, especially those of Lake Malawi, have colored patches on the anal fin which serve to aid spawning. These patches are known as egg-spots, dummy eggs, egg dummies, or false egg spots. These spots are especially important in the fertilization of the real eggs.

When the female takes the real eggs into her mouth, the male spreads his anal fin, displaying his egg spots. The female sees these and sucks at them assuming that they are real eggs. At that moment the male releases sperm, which the female sucks into her mouth, thus fertilizing the eggs.

FEEDING

 

Since there is such a variety of cichlid species, cichlids have a wide range of feeding habits. However most cichlids have an enormous appetite and are easily fed.

Omnivorous cichlids make up the greatest majority of cichlids. In nature, these fish feed mostly on insects, crustaceans, and worms, but at times also eat plants. Thus in aquaria these species should be offered a mixed diet of live foods, flakes foods, and plant or vegetable matter. Examples of omnivorous cichlids include Cichlasomines, many West African species, Angelfish, and Herosspecies.

Carnivorous cichlids are predatory species which are specialized for eating other fish. Generally these species will eat small tank mates, although not fish of a similar size. In aquaria, carnivorous cichlids can be fed live fish, worms, insects, insect larvae, and crustaceans, but also some will accept pellets, tablets, and large flakes.  Examples of carnivorous cichlids are many Haplochromines, Pike Cichlids (genus Crenicichla), Cyphotilapia and Convict cichlid (Amatitlania nigrofasciata) species.

Herbivorous cichlids are species that prefer to feed on plant matter. These fish will eat live aquarium plants. In aquaria, herbivorous cichlids feed on plant-based flake and pellet foods, plants, and vegetables. Some species will also feed on live foods. Examples of herbivorous cichlids include some of the Tilapia species and majority of the Mbuna cichlids are herbivores, Pseudotropheus crabro, – A Malawi Cichlid, The Peacock cichlids.

Some species of herbivorous cichlids feed on the thick algae growing on rocks. Living in the algae are micro-organisms and crustaceans known as Aufwuchs. Types of cichlids that consume the algae and the Aufwuchs living within include Lake Malawi Mbunas and Lake Tanganyika Tropheus.

STRIPPING

 

Once we have a case in which stripping must be performed, there are some rules to follow in order to make it safer for you and your fish. Before handling the female WASH YOUR HANDS ALL THE WAY TO YOUR ELBOWS THOUGHTLY WITH SOAP AND WATER AND DRY OFF be sure to wet your hands in the tank, dry fingers can damage the protective mucus or even tear scales apart.

Hold her body firmly but without pressing it, and use a wide bowl to keep the head under the water while you gently open her mouth with a paper clip, Q-tip, etc., and allow the eggs to fall to the bottom. It’s been most peoples experience with few exceptions, rarely do they get any viable fry when stripped the next day after spawning.

Most people prefer to wait at least five days, after the eggs have hatched and then place them inside their filter. Most people prefer using the "hang on" type of filter that returns the water to the tank as a small waterfall. They place the eggs in a net (to avoid the waterfall dragging them) so they receive a continuous flow of clear oxygenated water.

Any white, fungused eggs must be quickly removed away from the viable ones. Survival rates are over 90%. Of course breeders will develop techniques and skills that fit their tank set up and the species they keep.

South America Cichlids-apistos

Apistos South American Dwarf Cichlid

Apistos South American Dwarf Cichlid Genus Apistogramma;there are volumes of material regarding aquarium literature discussing tank size and how it relates to the apistogramma. Most of the literature implies large tanks should be for large fish and small tanks for small fish; one line in particular stated the apistos are perfect for apartment dwelling hobbyists because you can keep them in small tanks tens and fifteens; well, this is true to a certain extent you can keep them in small tanks and they will live and breed there but what you won’t see, is apistos as they really are in nature defending territories and protecting areas against other males and bully females; further you will experience high unnatural death rate for your Apistos in small fish tank.

A Male Apistogramma cacatuoides there is a German dwarf cichlid researcher Dr. Uwe Romer has found by studying apisto populations in the wild that these little fish live in a fairly crowded environment; with perhaps as many as a thousand fish in an area of nine square meters, with leaf litter up to one meter thick on the bottom. You can’t duplicate these conditions in a small aquarium, but you can in a large one he recommends keep your fish in tanks from no less than 40 gallon or 152 liters to 150 gallon or 658 liters aquariums

Large tanks provide many advantages; they are easier to maintain the proper pH and hardness. It is also easier to control the effects of ammonia and nitrites. Lastly, you will see the fish act in a way that more closely resembles their behavior in the wild. As an example, many as 125 of A. juruensis living in a 40 gallon aquarium and around 500 of A. cacatuoides living and doing well in a 150 gallon aquarium.

Of course, to have this many fish in a tank it must have the correct environment. To achieve this in one of two ways your aquariums have either lots of cured drift wood, rocks (i.e. granite) and live plants or live plants, cured driftwood, river rocks and leaf litter can be moss balls. Follow the usual precautions with the wood and rocks make sure they are clean (sterilizing is always required) and with rocks, (never use) use just any type of rocks that will alter the chemistry of your tank water like rocks with limestone in them use sterilized river rock or granite this requires boiling them and then placing them in large bucket of clean water for several days pour off the old water and rinse them daily add new clean water.

There are hundred of aquatic plants that can be used like Anubias- Sword plants are a good choice for the new hobbyist; since they tend to grow quite well even in less than optimal conditions. Dwarf Hairgrass. Pygmy Chain Swords, Indian Fern, Java Fern, Water Sprite, Moss Balls, Lilaeopsis brasiliensis and Dwarf Hairgrass. For spawning caves, very small plastic seeding planting pots or small ceramic pots they are available in most nurseries. They are cheaper than other sold in aquarium shops and you can get them in green which blend in with their environment. As often as not, though, the fish will spawn on a rock or log or plant leaves; but put the caves in the fish really like them caves make them feel safe and secure.

Water

The most important component for apisto aquarium is the water. There are three things about the water MUST be accurate;

1.      Hardness,

2.      pH,

3.      Cleanliness.

Is your water not quite good enough for apistos without any conditioning at all (100ppm hardness and a pH of 6.5 and run it through an R.O. (Reverse Osmosis) filter. Ion exchange is OK but if you are still not satisfied recharge them and run through again you probably won’t wear out the membrane in the R.O. filter.

The pH level in an aquarium is a measure of the tank's acidity. Most fish do best with a pH ranging from 6.5 to 7.5, but many aquarium keepers have difficulty maintaining these levels. With careful tank management, however, you can maintain the pH at a healthy level.

   

Tips & Warnings

1. Fish can thrive in a range of pH levels. Most will do well a full point above or below their recommended "ideal." You should only use chemical pH-altering substances if the pH is several numbers away from where it should be.

2. If you have difficulty regulating the pH in your aquarium, you may have either hard or soft water. Consider buying fish that naturally thrive in the pH level of your water.

3. Rapid changes in pH can be dangerous to fish. If your aquarium pH is off, avoid rapidly changing it. Huge alterations in pH are far more likely to kill your fish than an incorrect pH.

Lights & Live Plants

Lights should be dim this can be attained through Ceratophyllum which floats on top of water;Hornwort is a very common feathery leaved aquarium plant that will grow well in many aquariums. Hornwort also stands up to many fish that may have tendencies to include salads in their diets.

Hornwort is unique in that it will never develop roots. You can put the plant in bunches in the back of your tank and it can look nice that way but the plant will roots just won’t ever form and if you try to place any part of hornwort under the substrate, that portion will die. 

Hornwort can grow under lower and higher light levels. In lower light it will be brighter green and thinner. In higher light the plant gets bushier and can get red tints particularly in the stem. In fact hornwort is usually very easy to grow in the aquarium and pretty much anywhere else. Though a native of North America, this plant has been introduced in many parts of the world where it’s become a problematic weed. 

The Ceratophy llaceae have their own family and its relationship to other plants is still undetermined. They seem to be confusing plants for botanists, the number of different species isn’t certain either. Earlier sources argued at 1 or 2, newer sources list 6 or 7; but over 30 have been described, though many of those are almost certainly the same highly variable plants. 

Although there are some very competent apisto keepers who use straight R.O. water for their fish, mix with tap water to achieve a desired hardness of 10ppm. Next I treat the water with Sodium Bisulfate to bring the pH down to 4.5. Also use peat in filters as well as leaves (either Oak or Birch) to bring the pH down. However, I have found that the peat and the leaves don’t get the pH as low as I like, so I supplement with Sodium Bisulfate. I like to A Female Apistogramma cacatuoides.end up with a pH of 5.0 to 5.5 for most of my fish. However, the fish in the A. pertensis and A. iniridae complex seem to like it lower, around 4.5 pH.

Water cleanliness means three things: filtration, water changes, and feeding. I prefer biological filters. Most aquarium manufacturers sponge filter media just don’t have enough surface area to keep my apisto tanks clean, or they require too much maintenance if you have a lot of tanks.

The filters I use are made up of glass partitions that separate one part of the tank from the rest and essentially turning in into a trickle filter. Next I mix peat into the bottom half layer of rock. Water changes are done once every week to nine days with my conditioned R.O. water resulting in the tanks staying nice and clean.

Feeding

The feeding part of the equation is simple. I feed only live baby brine shrimp twice a day and only as much as they can eat in five minutes or so. I know some apisto keepers who practically count the number of shrimp they put in the tank, but it is actually very important not to over feed because uneaten live shrimp breaks down quickly and apistos are very susceptible to bacterial infections caused by dirty water.

Species

Now that you have some idea as to the keeping of apistos some species of apisto are a bit more forgiving than others. Apistogramma cacatuoides, A. steindachneri, A. macmasteri, and A. sp. Schwarzsaum are all good fish for beginners. However, if given the right aquarium conditions, most apistos will adjust adequately to the aquarium environment.

Dwarf Cichlids-Laetacara curviceps

Laetacara curviceps-Flag acara-Dwarf Flag Cichlid

Laetacara curviceps, aka the flag acara or dwarf flag cichlid is a dwarf cichlid from South American.

This fish lives in habits off forested area streams or in sluggish tributaries and swamps off the main river channels or slow-moving rivers and streams as well as ponds and lakes in the vicinity of the Brazilian Amazon Basin. Flag acaras are commonly kept in aquariums though they were more popular in the past; nowadays other dwarf cichlids like apistos and rams have become the predominate favorites.

Laetacara curviceps is one of several Laetacara species. All are small and make good aquarium inhabitants. Several different species can be found at times through specialty organizations like the American Cichlid Association

This beautiful little species was previously included in the genus Aequidens and is referred to as such in older literature. The current genus name Laetacara was erected in 1986, and is derived from the Latin word 'Laetus', meaning happy. This was settled upon as the species it contains are often referred to as 'smiling' acaras, in reference to the distinctive markings around their mouthparts. There are a handful of undescribed species that have been tentatively placed in the genus. L. sp. "Buckelkopf" and L. sp. "Orangeflossen", in particular have achieved a fair degree of popularity in the hobby.

Characteristics Living in Home Aquarium

Step 1: Selecting the Laetacara curviceps species is worthy choice; the flag acara very peaceful compared to most cichlids;

Step 2: Flag acara will not uproot plants and well planted aquarium will be greatly appreciated and is necessary for this dwarf cichlid;

Step 3: Laetacara curviceps adult male and female size adult male can measure 3.6" (9cm). Females are smaller, approximately 2.8" (7cm).

Step 4: pH water range Flag acara prefers slightly acidic conditions, recommendation in the range 5.5-7.0.

Step 5: Water hardness 2-10°dH

Step 6: Recommended water temperature for Flag acara 24 - 29 °C ( 76 °F - 84 °F )

Step 7: Add a number of broad leaved sword plants as well as a thicket of java moss and some floating water sprite and they will soon be ready to spawn.

Step 8: Dwarf flag cichlid require slightly soft and acidic water but are sometimes tolerant of different conditions however it is important to try to keep water conditions as close to their natural habitat as they experience in the wild.

Step 9: Flag acaras are ideal for communities with other peaceful Amazon fish;

Step 10: Flag acara tank mates could be tetras and apistos. However, you must be careful in selecting Dwarf flag cichlids tank mates as they are easily bullied by more aggressive fish, even those that are much smaller Remember Laetacara curviceps species is shy and easily intimidated and breeding will be limited if at all.

Step 11: Tank size should be at least 30 gallon or larger the larger the aquarium the easier to keep your tanks eco system balanced and clean conversely the smaller the aquarium the more difficult it is to maintain water quality, water flow, pH levels, temperature and build-ups of nitrogenous waste; you will be required to indulged in 1000% more work for a 10 gallon or 38 liter tank than you will need to do on 100 gallonor 379 liter tank.

 

Great video however it is in German

 Laetacara curviceps Diet and Food

Flag acara do best on live or frozen foods.

1. earthworms chopped finely;
2. blood worms;
3. brine shrimp live or frozen;
4. white worms will bring out their full coloration;
5. water fleas
6. Avoid tubifex worms they have been linked to bacteria that kill cichlids.

 

Lifespan Dwarf flag cichlids

Anticipated and expected lifespan is 2-4 years.

Breeding Laetacara curviceps

Step 1: Laetacara curviceps, flag acaras will pair up at a very young age as small as one and a half inches.

Step 2: The dwarf flag cichlid will flare at each other when pairing up and will later swim together and breed and they usually will stay with their mate for the rest of their lives.

Step 3: Laetacara curviceps it never takes much to trigger the breeding of flag acaras. Clear-cut beneficial living conditions are more often enough;

Step 4: For the flag acaras warm and clean water is mandatory and plentiful live food is necessary;

 

 

Steps to Successful Eggs, Hatching, Wigglers, Free Swimming Young  

Step 1: Laetacara curviceps prefer their eggs are usually laid on a leaf or upright structure or on a flat surface but they can also dig a hole and spawn directly on gravel or sand.

Step 2: Five to seven days the eggs will hatch and become wiggler; this is when the hatchling dwarf flag cichlid have hatched out of their eggs but are still attached to the spawning surface feeding off their yolk sacs which are attached to their stomachs.

Step 3: Subsequently when the five to seven days of being wigglers have past the fish have almost completely consumed their yolk sacs and become free swimming.

Step 4: Laetacara curviceps free swimming young is very small but they can normally eat newborn brine shrimp as their first food and crushed flakes. Laetacara curviceps young can also be fed liquid fry food which is available at most fish or pet stores with good care and frequent water changes you can raise quite a few from a single spawn and sell the young it can be profitable.

          

Laetacara curviceps Parenting Skills

Step 1: Both parents take turns guarding and protecting their eggs, wigglers, and fry.

Step 2: Laetacara curviceps are dedicated as the parents however they sometimes become confused and eat their own eggs.

Step 3: Laetacara curviceps if they become fearful for their brood's safety, Laetacara curviceps will pick up the fry in their mouth and move them across the tank and some times the scoop up the eggs for no apparent reason other than to take the eggs for a swim about.

Step 4: The flag acaras will take turns moving the fry, one standing guard over the already moved young.

Step 5: The fry are protected by their parents until they are moderately large and can fend for themselves.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Laetacara curviceps

Scientific classification

Kingdom:         Animalia

Phylum:            Chordata

Class:   Actinopterygii

Order: Perciformes

Family:             Cichlidae

Subfamily:         Cichlasomatinae

Genus: Laetacara

Species:            L. curviceps

Binomial name: Laetacara curviceps

Dwarf Cichlids

Dwarf Cichlids

Dwarf cichlids are found in Africa and South America. The most well known dwarf cichlid species are the South American and belong to the genus Apistogramma laetacara-curviceps-flag-acara-dwarf. These cichlids live in the Amazon region and some species have also been found in Venezuela. 

1. Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma agassizi)

1.     Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma agassizi)

2. Blue Apistogramma (Apistogramma trifasciata)

2.     Blue Apistogramma Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma trifasciata)

3. Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma cacatuoides)

3.     Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma cacatuoides)

4 Yellow Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma borellii)

4.     Yellow Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma borellii). Apistogramma dwarf cichlids are the most common type dwarf cichlids kept in the home aquarium. 

In the wild; Apistogramma dwarf cichlids habitat is in soft acidic waters, and you must keep the pH between 5.5 and 6.8 in the aquarium and make sure that the water is soft. 

 

The male Apistogramma cichlids will grow too approximately three inches or 7.62 cm and the females are usually one and half inches or 3.81 cm in size; this makes it possible to house dwarf cichlids in smaller aquarium minim size can be 30 gallon  or 114 liters any smaller you will be working yourself to death; remember the smaller the aquarium the more water changes and extreme upkeep is always required for small tanks; you should not house dwarf cichlids in any type of small aquarium water quality and pH is absolute must for this dwarf cichlid-Apistogramma cichlids and care would be exaggerated in small tank.

However most dwarf cichlids are extremely sensitive to water and pH quality than their larger cousins and it will be hard to keep the water quality fine enough in a very small aquarium. Due to their sensitivity Apistogramma Dwarf cichlids are never recommended to aquarists without previous aquarium experience.

Apistogramma dwarf cichlids are quite docile but they will defend their territory during spawning. Just like many other cichlids, Apistogramma species and are great parents will care for their offspring. 

The male Apistogramma will claim a territory and protect it, and several females will care for the fry in small nests within this territory. The nests are usually quite basic, like holes in the sand or a little pile of leaf litter. 

Each female will defend her own spawning site against all others. If you keep bottom dwelling fish species, like catfish, with your Apistogramma dwarf cichlids you must remove them from the aquarium when the dwarf cichlids begin to spawning. Dwarf cichlids are known to pick out the eyes of intruding fish species.

One of the most commonly kept dwarf cichlids from Africa is Pelvicachromis pulcher, the Kribensis cichlid. A male Kribensis can reach a size of 10 centimeters (4 inches) while the females 5 centimeters or (2 inches) and they always are much smaller than the males. 

African Dwarf Cichlid is Pelvicachromis pulcher- Kribensis cichlid

1. African Dwarf Cichlid is Pelvicachromis pulcher- Kribensis cichlid

Unlike a lot of the commonly kept African cichlids, this cichlid does not originate from any of the Great Rift Valley lakes. Kribensis is instead found in the Pelvicachromis pulcher is native to southern Nigeria and to coastal areas of Cameroon, where it occurs in warm (24–26 °C or 75–79 °F), acidic to neutral (pH 5.6–6.2), soft water (12–22 mg L-1 CaCO3). 

Populations of P. pulcher prefers rivers with fast running shallow water;they also have occurred outside its natural range in Hawaii, as a USA by-product of the ornamental fish trade;
 

Pelvicachromis pulcher is native to southern Nigeria and to coastal areas of Cameroon, where it occurs in warm (24–26 °C or 75–79 °F), acidic to neutral (pH 5.6–6.2), soft water (12–22 mg L-1 CaCO3).

If you want to keep Kribensis cichlids, you should house them in a well planted aquarium with plenty of hiding places since this resembles the natural environment for Kribensis cichlids. 

Drift wood and rocks can also be used to create hiding places. Kribensis cichlids will work well with each other or in a community aquarium. They will claim territories, but these are so small that territorial fights will be unusual. Unlike many larger African cichlids, Kribensis cichlids are not very found of digging.