Cichlids-Here are Some Fish Diseases that can also Affect Humans

Cichlids-Here are Some Fish Diseases that can also Affect Humans

This particular short article, I would like to quickly talk about fish aquarium diseases which can be transmitted to man. Some could be difficult to cure and several are often lethal. Fish TB (MYCOBACTERIUM MARINUM), otherwise known as fish tuberculosis, fish tank granuloma, swimming pool granuloma.

Linked to human TB and leprosy. •Bacteria have grown immune to treatment method. Usually takes place on extremities (hands, feet). Entrance via wounds. Incubation ranges from 2 days to 2 years; typically usually takes about 2 weeks for granuloma show up at the site of infection. Contaminated area can be pink to purple in color, may discharge pus, and can be distressing to touch.

•Treated with human TB drugs (local doctors get minocycline, rifampin, ethambutol, and biaxin); may take a number of years to get rid of (year or more). •People have gotten fish TB from fish spine punctures, cleaning fish/shrimp/crabs, getting scratched on fish tanks, from rose bushes and injuring bare feet in parking lots (infected water transferred via air during storms), mouth-siphoning fish tanks, dolphin bites, diving around reefs, splinters from fish net handles, etc. -

Usually not fatal. Can get into joints and mimic arthritis or carpal tunnel syndrome.•General type of aquatic infection affecting the skin area.Just lately noted that flowerhorn cichlid don't hold harmful bacteria that can be transmitted to humans.

VIBRIO infections. •A number of species can invade humans: V. ALGINOLYTICUS (wound infections), V.DAMSELA (wound/systemic infections), V. PARAHAEMOLYTICUS (gastroenteritis/wound infections),V.VULNIFICUS (wound/gastroenteritis/systemic infections).

•Systemic infections by means of vulnificus or damsela could be quickly Lethal, or may result to limb amputation. Systemic infections picked up by means of acute wounds.

•Incubation of vulnificus is 1-5 days; median time is 28 hours. Warning signs consist of high fever, chills, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, low blood pressure, seizures, fluid-filled skin lesions, etc.

•Gastrointestinal infections through ingestion of vulnificus (consuming raw oysters, etc) along with other kinds of Vibrio may cause abrupt dehydration, and can lead to systemic infections in the event that bacteria enter in the blood.

Vulnificus can increase in numbers so quickly that blood vessels and organs get clogged...at times ultimately causing amputation or death. - Antibiotics utilized are tetracycline, ampicillin, penicillin, gentamycin, etc. ERYSIPELOTHRIX RHUSIOPATHIAE, also called erythema migrans, fish-handler's disease, fish poisoning, fish hand, sealer's finger, whale finger, blubber finger, etc.

•Illness mostly work .....people handling animals or their excrements can get it, e.g.: butchers, meat-processing workers, animal caretakers, farmers, fishermen, veterinarians, cooks/housewives, sewer workers, etc. Can remain in frozen meats.

•Incubation 1-7 days. Fever, malaise, muscle and joint pains, terrible headaches. Infections can go internal to C. nervous system/heart. Most often seen on hands-can result in acute arthritis of finger joints.•Bacterial infection by way of break in skin.

Maintained by many animals, including dolphins, shellfish, and fish. - Described as "diamond skin disease," where diamond-shaped welts happen on the skin as a result of infection. •Results usually not cancerous, nonetheless could be lethal. Systemic cure is with antibiotics.

SALMONELLA - around 1600 stereotypes identified. •Infection by swallowing. Transported by many kinds of animals.•Mild to severe gastroenteritis. Could be fatal via rapid dehydration, septicemia, fecal infections. •Incubation is 7-72 hours. MAD FISH DISEASE - due to STREPTOCOCCUS INIAE. •Most recently noted from touching tilapia. Infection via pierced wounds.

•Could cause fever, shaking, meningitis, arthritis, and skin/blood infections. •To safeguard yourself - do not manage organisms/water/tanks when you have skin breaks; tend not to dive when you've got skin breaks; tend not to mouth-siphon tank water, don't eat fresh seafood, etc. Scrub hands, etc. properly following working on tanks, having seafood, and after diving.

When pierced, or injured under water, permit the wound to bleed openly for some time to get rid of injected bacteria, and then sterilize and protect wound.Those individuals with fragile immune cells are at higher chance for obtaining the above bacterial infections.

So people with AIDS, diabetes, liver dysfunction, kidney problems, or in the process of cancer treatment method, etc. needs to be extra careful. Toxins made by RED TIDE microorganisms and PFIESTERIA PISCICIDA can affect humans in a variety of means.

•PFIESTERIA exposure can lead to skin sores, memory loss, narcosis ("drugged" effect), reddening of eyes, severe headaches, blurred vision, nausea/vomiting, difficulty in breathing, kidney/liver dysfunction, severe cognitive impairment (can't remember name, address, etc), etc.

•Relapses have occurred 6 years immediately after primary exposure. •PFIESTERIA is now classed being a BIOHAZARD III, and are usually investigated only in specially-equipped labs. If I were I fish hobbyist I'd rather focus on breeding baby flowerhorn.

Cichlid Fish Breeding: Things to Remember

Cichlid Fish Breeding: Things to Remember

If you are thinking about cichlid fish breeding, then there are some important factors to remember when it comes to successfully breeding this species of fish. You need to make sure that you know enough about cichlid fish before you even consider trying to breed them, and when you are ready to get started then you could end up making a very healthy profit by selling the cichlid young off to good homes as well! Here is a little bit of information to get you started with cichlid breeding.

Cichlids are well known for their temperament, they can be quite aggressive because it is a trait which they use in the wild in order to protect themselves against predators. However, cichlids can also be quite aggressive when it comes to mating as well, especially the male cichlid. After the mating has ended, the male will let go after the female cichlid and will usually chase her away. If there isn't anywhere suitable for the female to hide herself, then she will often end up being killed by the aggressive male cichlid, seen as a threat to his environment and offspring. If you want to avoid this from happening, then either set aside a few hours to monitor the breeding so that you can remove the female to a separate tank as soon as mating has finished, or make sure that there are plenty of hiding places for the female such as over turned plant pots and ornaments.

Another interesting fact about cichlid breeding is that there are two types of cichlid breeders, mouth brooders and substrate brooders. The type of brooder will differ from cichlid to cichlid, but it is very important that you know what to look out for, and it is also very fascinating as well. When it comes to mouth brooders, the cichlid will often scoop up the eggs directly after they have been laid and carry them off so that they can be kept safe until hatching. Mouth brooders also tend to carry their larvae around with them in their mouths until they are able to feed and swim on their own, it is an amazing thing to watch when it comes to cichlid breeding! Substrate brooders will not pick the eggs or larvae up with their mouths, but instead they will fan the eggs to bring more oxygen to them, and keep watch over them until they hatch. Care of the young will continue until they are ready to swim and feed on their own.

When it comes to cichlid breeding, there are many factors you should take into consideration, and before you begin you should refer to a cichlid breeding guide so that you know what to expect and what your role is in the wonders of cichlid breeding.

The author has created a quality review site that has the latest information regarding cichlid breeding that you will find anywhere.

Please go to Fishy-Whisperer.com.

Cichlid-Tips For Raising and Breeding Cichlid Fry

Cichlid-Tips For Raising and Breeding Cichlid Fry

Cichlids-tips for raising and breeding cichlid fry every guide you read about breeding cichlids and raising their fry will tell you that water quality is the most critical factor. More or less if you have the basics right then this is excellent advice. To expand on this idea with a little more depth this article is going to look into a couple of the lesser understood factors that affect the quality and health of your cichlid fry and their mother.

Cichlid Fry Aquarium Tips

• Tip 1 Keeping a slightly higher water temperature will shorten the number of days the mother holds her fry before releasing, the fry will develop faster and lose their sack earlier. Slightly higher water temperature means one or two degrees above your species average recommended temperature and no more. Further to this, you should only expect the duration of holding to be reduced by a day or two.

• Tip 2 Particularly if the mother is in your display or community aquarium it is important to make sure there is adequate water movement throughout the aquarium. The mother will be looking to hide in caves and crevices where she can protect her fry, the water in these parts of the aquarium should not be stagnant. You can increase water flow with a power head and consider the outlet of your filter system. Within reason you can't really have too much water movement in your aquarium.

• Tip 3 If using a floating isolation aquarium to raise your cichlid fry then consider an air stone inside the floating aquarium to assist with water movement. You will ideally be feeding the fry four quick and small meals a day, they are growing quickly and will be generating plenty of waste. I find the best floating aquariums have large holes that can be covered with mesh when the cichlid fry are very small, the mesh can later be removed once the fry have grown in size and are producing more waste.

• Tip 4 The pH of your water is critical and should reflect your species natural environment as best possible. The pH should also be stable and you should know how much buffer you are adding to tap water with each water change. Cichlids require a relatively high pH and providing this on an ongoing basis can be very beneficial.

 

• Tip 5 Further to the idea of replicating the species natural environment, consider the use of lake salts. These can be purchased for Lake Malawi, Lake Victoria and Lake Tanganyika aquariums, they provide trace minerals found in the wild along with the benefits that salts give to your aquarium. At the very least the additional salts will provide some extra resistance against disease and some fungi.

• Tip 6 Perhaps the best and most underutilized tip is to feed your new born cichlid fry with baby brine shrimp and blood worm, although you can get away with crushing flake and miniature cichlid granules, the difference in growth rate is amazing. Brine shrimp can be grown in small containers at home and you should be able to pick up a starter kit at your local fish store.

How to Remove Hard Water Stains on Home Aquariums

How to Remove Hard Water Stains on Home Aquariums

How to remove hard water stains on home aquariums are fun to watch, that is definitely a fact, but when you are already seeing white stains on your aquarium glass, you know you have to remove these stains unless you enjoy not seeing your fishes due to hindered vision. It is a good news that there are ways to chip off hard water stains on your aquariums, and this article will try to discuss some of the most effective ways.

How to Remove Hard Water Stains Home Aquariums

Hard water stains are actually lime deposits caused by the minerals in the water based on the area where your aquarium water is taken. Now, there is no need to be concerned about these stains harming your fish because they are only harmless minerals in the water. The only thing worry about these stains is the fact that your aquarium looks dirty with them around, and for the decorative purposes of your house, you would not like them to settle in your aquarium.

The thing you ought to first try out is to graze the stains away from your home aquariums. An aquarium scrubber can do this job pretty well or razor blades for more effective scraping. The advantage of using this technique is that you do not need to take out your fishes from your tank and you would not need worry about harming your fish. But the one thing you have to worry about is handling the razor blades without harming yourself. Also, this procedure will take much toil on your part since this takes more energy to do.

The fastest way to get rid of hard water stains from your home aquariums is to make use of lime juice or vinegar solutions and rub them across the stains. One thing you should remember is that these things are acidic in nature and may harm your fish if you do not take careful use of them. Use them on your own risk, or if you really want to be careful, try to take out your fish first before scrubbing your off the stains.

To successfully take care of home aquariums, you should be taking research and learning more about how you can efficiently run one like clockwork. The good news about this is that you can always visit our home aquariums site to know more about keeping aquariums and taking care of fishes. The site is updated on a regular basis and your insights can also help us bring more valuable resources to all novice and expert aquarium enthusiasts alike.

Care of Live Home Aquarium Plants

Cichlids and Plants

Care of live home aquarium plants to add that special effect and enhance the natural setting within your aquarium, try using live plants instead of  plastic plants. The use of live plants will not only add a pleasing visual appeal. Live plants will also help maintain your tank, by adding oxygen to the water, the use of live plants helps keep your aquarium balanced and will aid in your fish health.

Home Aquarium Live Plants How To Recreate Natural Setting 

The most important factor in growing and maintaining healthy aquarium plants is the lighting used. For a well planted aquarium, it is suggested to use 2-3 watts per gallon of water. The use of fluorescent bulbs is practical and adds a nice lighting effect. Take caution when deciding to use florescent lights if your tank has a depth of 20" or more. The low growing plants, or plants with multiple leave levels will suffer from a lack of light as the florescent rays will not provide enough light.

Home Aquarium Lighting For Plants

Once you have figured out what type of lighting you will use, you must turn your attention to the hardness of the your water; water hardness is critical. The majority of aquarium plants will thrive in water that has a hardness between 4-12 dH, and between the range of 6.5-7.2 for pH.

•   Lighting

•  Water hardness

Aquarium plants must have clean and clear water to survive best in home aquarium, so proper cleaning and maintenance must be performed on regular basis for the home aquarium. Most plants will not survive if there is too much debris or waste in the water, so keeping up with cleaning is essential.

How To Establish Plant Growth In Home Aquarium

Once your plants are established in a clean, well lighted aquarium, you must care for them by making sure they receive the nutrients required for their continued healthy growth. Plants need both macro- and micro nutrients. Macro nutrients are usually found naturally in tap water and in the fish themselves. These nutrients include nitrates, sulfates and phosphates. Macro nutrients should never need to be added to the water of the tank. They exist on their own. Micro nutrients are needed in very small amounts. Copper, iron and zinc are among the micro nutrients live plants will need to survive in the aquarium.

Generally, the water and the fish in the tank will provide the nutrients and fertilizers needed for plant growth. It is rare that any supplements will need to be added. One important factor in having healthy plant life is your filtration system. Stay away from under gravel filters because they produce a steady flow of bubbles that disturb the surface.

The filter plate on under gravel filters also limit's the composition of the gravel in which the plants are rooted. All other kinds of filtration systems will work well. The only things to be concerned about are if your filter causes too much disruption to the water surface. When this happens, carbon dioxide is lost and plants will suffer. Also make sure the filter creates a current that keeps nutrients moving throughout the tank.

By having a good chemical balance in the aquarium and having an efficient filtering system, you will be sure to have healthy live plant growth. These plants will add to the beauty of the tank and will also keep your fish relaxed because it will be a natural setting for them. If you are considering adding plants for decoration within the aquarium, consider the great benefits of using live plants.

Aquarium Driftwood

Aquarium Driftwood

Aquarium driftwood takes time, but you will save extraordinary amount of  money. Even small pieces of drift wood and cost well over $20. Also, the soak method (minus salt) will work for store bought driftwood. Store bought driftwood is cleaned and has not been soaked. This can lead to tannin's being leaked into your home aquarium and death to your fish.

Aquarium Driftwood Knowledge

Driftwood, which can be found anywhere. It doesn't necessarily have to come from the water. You could find it in the woods, as long as it is weathered down and looks unique. Also make sure the wood is not rotting.

BIG soaking container, I use a 15 gal rubber maid container.
 
Step one, clean off your wood! Make sure all debris and bark are removed from the wood (or it'll fall off in your tank!). Once complete, boil the water in the BIG pot and add aquarium salt. I use about a tablespoon per gallon. Boil the entire piece for about 2-4 hours depending on your size. If you can only fit half the wood in the pot then you will need to boil the other half.

 

Aquarium Salt, I use Doc Wellfish brand. This is used as a natural way of killing bacteria and parasites.


Step two once the boil is complete you can transfer your wood into the rubber maid container. Add water until the whole piece of wood is under water (you can also add salt if you want). If the wood does not sink place something on top of it until it does. It'll sink after a week or two.

You'll notice the water turn into tea-ish color. It is the result of the tannins that are released into the water. If you didn't soak the wood, the water in your tank would be this color. Tannins are natural and some fishes actually like it because it'll make them feel more at home. It'll also affect your PH, I'm not sure about GH or KH. You'll need to do water changes every other day to clean the water. This may take weeks or months.

Step 3 when the color of the soak water suffices, you will need to soak your wood for another week without any salt. This will make sure that the wood does not hold any salt that may leak into your tank.

Step 4 once soaking is complete wash the wood well and transfers the wood into your tank. Do not keep the wood out of water for a long time or it will float.

For more information and pictures about this project, please visit www.carolinafishtalk.com/ and check the DIY section.

Article written by krayzievanh@yahoo.com, member of CFT Community
Proof read by Brandan Njagu b.njagu@gmail.com

Proper Temperature for Tropical Aquariums Freshwater

Proper Temperature for Tropical Aquariums Freshwater

There genuinely is no appropriate temperature that will apply to all freshwater aquarium setups; it is all dictated by the needs of your aquatic animals. Nonetheless, a typical range for tropical freshwater setups will be somewhere in the vicinity of 72-82 degrees Fahrenheit.

It is critical that you test to stock your aquarium with fish that are compatible with every other, by this I signify that placing a fish whose native waters are 82 degrees with one particular who will come from 70 degree h2o is heading to produce stressful ailments for just one or the two of them. Take into account, the very first rule of profitable aquarium maintaining is to stay clear of tension.

It is a uncomplicated guideline actually, pressure = illness, injury and premature death.When it occurs to heating your aquarium, there are two key selections plus many others used in far more specialized applications.#1 - Immersible Heaters. Immersibles are at the bottom of the selling price bracket, frequently you can come across them on sale for underneath $10 US. Be guaranteed to choose up a single or two to use in emergencies, like when your major heater stops functioning!

 

They mount on the rim of your aquarium and only the heating element is positioned in the normal water - the control unit should stay out of the mineral water. Even though adequate, Immersibles are not often as efficient as other possibilities.#2 - Submersible Heaters. These heaters are drinking water tight and can be inserted fully beneath normal water.

They present a lot more freedom for placement, are less difficult to disguise with plants or decorations, and do a far better employment of evenly heating your aquarium; their freedom enables you to placement them directly under the filtration system return flow. And of program they will price tag far more than Immersibles.#three - In filter heaters.

There are a several producers that have created heating components into their canister filters, an high-priced alternative but good if you do not want to see the heater inside your wonderful aquarium. Also, a lot of acrylic tank patterns have a separate invisible filtration system box created in at the back of the unit, specifically developed to include your heating and filtering gear (yes, they will fee extra).#4 - Substrate Heaters. For individuals significant plant growers that want to always keep their roots cozy, substrate heaters are fundamentally heat cords (sealed off of program) that you wind through your gravel; they create a very gentle heat and increase plant development.

Most of these models will use a secondary heating source.After you have decided what sort of heater you want, you will need to know what sizing to get. Heater dimensions is expressed in wattage, for illustration, 50W or 100W. For aquariums up to 50 gallons in volume, a single heater is enough; something greater must have various units to make certain that the water is heated uniformly throughout.

Sizing of heater you will need is established by 3 aspects:a) The sizing of your aquarium in gallonsb) The heat demands of your fishc) The ambient area temp exactly where your tank is situated.Armed with that details, you can calculate your demands. A 50 watt heater will theoretically increase the temperatures of a 20 gallon tank by 9 levels.And maintain in thoughts - we are discussing the temperatures of your aquarium, it's not constantly about heating.

If you come about to reside in a cozy climate with temperatures persistently above 85 levels in the summer, and you do not have your aquarium in an air conditioned place, you will have to consider cooling your h2o or danger the lives of your fish.Temperatures in your freshwater aquarium is all about preserving a constant rang - this will usually imply heating your drinking water, but for some it can indicate cooling.Learn more about tropical freshwater aquariumjust visit www.easyfreshwateraquariumcare.comhttp://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?.More resources:Proper temperature for tropical aquariums freshwater

Fishes Relationship To Feng Shui

Arowana Called Dragon Fish

Many types of fishes are used to enhance the Feng Shui in homes, offices as well as buildings. Water by itself is a powerful Feng Shui enhancement when used correctly. The amount of power generated by water flowing is very great. Feng Shui Masters often recommend that their clients to place a water feature, fountain, aquarium to activate their wealth spots or pond to generate and direct wealth flowing through the plot of land into the home or business.

Most common auspicious fishes used to enhance Feng Shui are as follows

Aquarium - Arowana, Luohan, Gold Fish, Gourami, Blood Parrot and Discus
Pond - Carp , Japanese Koi and Gourami, African Cichlids.

The most popular ones would be the Arowana because of its name Dragon Fish and also because the markings on it's head resembles that of a dragon's head, the strong but graceful swimming postures are believed to be like a dragon.

 

 The Arowana - scientific name Scleropages Formosus is also known as the Dragon Fish because its slim body, graceful swimmer, distinct dragon like barbels and large shiny scales that resembles the powerful and mythical dragon. In the wild, Arowanas are also known to be able to jump or "Fly" very high above the water surface to catch its prey flying near water surfaces. Its power and strength is a great symbol of a dragon, thus many people believe that having an arowana is like having a dragon to help them boost their business and personal luck.

Chinese people believe that the arowana is the reincarnation of the dragon. They believe that if an arowana is well kept and taken care of, it will bring the owner good luck and fortune. The Dragon is an auspicious Yang creature that signifies supremacy,prosperity, wealth, strength and power. It is also believed that a dragon can protect the owner and his family by driving away evil spirits and bad luck.

It is also often a "symbol of status" to own an arowana because it is a rare and exotic that comes with a big price tag. Arowana were once upon a time the exotic pets for the rich and famous.

Luohan was also a favorite Feng Shui fish mainly because of it's big growth on the head which resembles the God Of Longevity, the redness on it's body, the active and aggressive nature, plus the nice flower markings on its body. The name luohan means Arhat in Buddhist translation and believed to be able to drive away evil spirits with its aggressive nature.

Carp and Japanese Koi were being used since the olden days because of their gracefulness while swimming in a group inside a pond. It also has the ability to jump quite high above the water surface, thus being treated as Carp jumping over the Dragon Gate. They are believed to be able to bring good luck and bring their owners beyond the next higher level in terms of wealth and prosperity because they can ‘Jump pass the Dragon's Gate"

Arowana and Louhan are more popular than other Feng Shui fishes because they are hardier to keep as compared to Gold Fishes, Carps and Kois that needs clean water parameters all the time. Furthermore, not all people have the luxury to own a pond with a powerful water filteration system to upkeep Carps and Koi's. Most importantly, Arowana and Louhan have brought their owners great windfall luck.



Having said that, one must also know how to take good care of their fishes because it is considered inauspicious to have the whole tank or pond of fishes dying off due to dirty water and diseases.

Feng Shui position of Fish Tanks

Whether you are keeping Arowanas, Luo Hans or even just a few gold fishes. You should know where to place the tanks in your house to optimize its Feng Shui potentials to your benefits.

Fish tanks should not be placed on the Southern Walls of your house because it represents Fire on the South. Tanks should be placed on the Northern sector of the house as it represents Water on the North. This Sector also represents your Career Luck position which will also be activated and put to good use when you place your fish tanks there.

Fish tanks, especially Feng Shui fishes, should be placed in the Eastern Sector of the house to boost up the Qi there, this is because the Eastern Sector represents the Green Dragon Wei of the house and it should be stronger than the White Tiger Wei which is on the Western Sector. That is more the reason you should not place your tanks on the Western Sector, keep this sector as calm and quiet as possible. This Sector, when strengthened, will also generate good family luck and peacefulness in the family.

You can also place the fish tank at the South East Sector or the Sheng Qi location according to your Ba Zi calculated Feng Shui Directions too. This will activate wealth luck within your house to tap on the ultimate wealth luck in enhancing your career, windfall luck and more sources of income coming your way.









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Aquarium Upkeep Basics

Aquarium Upkeep Basics

Today, aquariums have advanced to the point that the tanks are self-sufficient. Water conditions are important to check, since in each area of the world, water is different. In fact, some area waters are more contaminated than other areas. The types of fish factors into water, as well plants play a role too. Tetras is a type of fish, which naturally habitats in rainwater, or when in aquariums the fish enjoys soft waters. Therefore, when you test waters for these fish make sure that the waters are soft.

Cichlid is another species of fish that prefer harder water. The specimens came from the Rift Valleys of Africa, which contains dissolved salt. The salt was available from natural sources, such as lakes and rock lining.

How do I avoid hardening the water?

If you want hard waters, then do not add limestone. Limestone should be avoided, especially if you intend to use it as rocks or gravel.

How can I tell the condition of waters after testing pH?
After you test the waters, pH readings should give you a figure. If the number is below seven, then the water is acidy. If the figure is higher than seven are then the water is alkalinity or alkaline. The neutral pH figure is pH7. If the water conditions are below or higher than this figure then your water is too alkalinity and/or acidity. If you maintain a correct temperature and balance of water, your fish and plants will live long and healthy.

Tip: Red Nosed Tetra prefers freedom to swim and density of plants.

If you have test water keep in mind that tap water has pH7 or pH8 reading usually. If the gauge reads higher or else lower, it means that the water is too alkalinity or acidy: Keep in mind that discus from the symphysodon aequifasciata specimen enjoy acidy waters. If you have cichlids from Rift Valley, these fish prefer alkaline.

How do I test water?

You will need to purchase a test kit. You can purchase test kits online or preferably at your local pet store. Of course, you can purchase the kits online, but if you are not familiar with the types, it is best to purchase at a pet store. The test kits will provide you a read out of chemicals in the water as well, such as chlorine. There should not be chlorine in the waters; however, tap water may have such chemicals. Water conditioners are ideal. When you setup your tank and each time you refill the tank you should use water conditioners.

Tip: If you have a heater in the tank, keep the volume low.

Typically, it is not recommended that you locate your aquarium in a living room. Since most living rooms are too warm, the fish will feel agitated. However, if you have tropical fish as well as plants you will have fewer problems. Plants and fish from the tropical regions tend to adapt well to higher water or room temperature. Using a heater in the tank can help you preserve your fish, yet you want to keep the heater on low volume. Maintaining a volume of heat will also prolong the life of your heater.

If you are heating your aquarium, take the easy way out. Some heaters include heaterstats, which will help you regulate heat. Heaterstats are thermostatically controlled devices, which fix to the corners of an aquarium. You can use suction cups to mount the heater. The heater has a small lamp, which will click on each time the heater is activated.

Visit the Types Of Sharks website to learn about rainbow shark and dogfish shark.

How To Grow Water Fleas For Your Fish

How To Grow Daphnia For The Aquarium

The benefits of water fleas feeding live food to fish in a community tank are many: live food will improve vigor and color, and more closely resemble the food found in the fish's natural habitat more importantly your fish are forging for food as they do in the wild and live food is easily obtained water fleas are just like magic.

Some drawbacks include the transmission of diseases or parasites to the aquarium, it is time consuming to maintain the cultures, and a lot of space needs to be devoted to raising live foods. The cost of equipment and supplies needed to maintain cultures is also a consideration for the beginner.

In this article I will discuss how to raise Daphnia. This article will be part of an on-going series on live foods. You can find many more related articles on http://www.kingdiscus.com.

Water Fleas For Your Fish

Daphnia belong to a group known as the Daphniidae, and are close relatives of the freshwater shrimp, and the brine shrimp (Artemia). Their generic name is generally referred to as "water flea." This common name is derived from the jerky movements of Daphnia in the water. The over 150 different species can be found in North America, with a similar amount of species growing in Europe. Some of these species find common ground on both continents.

Daphnia are a small crustacean, and are great to use as a fresh food because they will exist in the tank water until eaten by the fish. Daphnia can also be sterilized if it is felt necessary by placing in a 5% solution of Clorox for 3 to 5 minutes. Very few micro-organisms can survive this. Be sure, however, to rinse them thoroughly before feeding!

Daphnia aka Water Fleas

Daphnia can be raised both indoors and outside. Many people raise daphnia in a small children's wading pool. A more controlled environment, however, is done indoors, and can be done year round if one lives in northern climes. This can be as simple as a couple of two liter bottles, to a 20 gallon tub purchased from a store such as Menard's. The ideal situation is to have as much oxygenated surface area as possible, so if there is room for a larger container, by all means use it. A shallower environment suits daphnia best for prolific growth.

Setting up the environment for daphnia is quite simple. Many methods are used for collecting the water to use for the culture. The best advice I have heard is from Joe F. of Circle City Aquarium Club in Indianapolis, IN. He gave a presentation at the August meeting of Southwestern Michigan Aquarium Society, and recommends using tank water saved from a tank change. Joe has been raising live foods for a long time, and has had good success. His video presentation was top notch.

 

 PH levels for successful Daphnia cultures should be in the range of 6-8, and should be more alkaline than acidic. If raised outdoors, no aeration is needed. If raised indoors, aeration should be adjusted to produce large bubbles. Small bubbles in the daphnia culture will cause the bubbles to become lodged in the carapace of the culture, and they will die.

Water temperatures for Daphnia magna are not a high requirement, but the optimal temperature should be in the 64-72 degree range. they are very tolerant to changes in temperature, and can withstand fluctuations down to freezing. In fact, Daphnia can be frozen and kept in the freezer, and then revived when needed. Moina withstand a higher fluctuation in temperature than do D. magna.

Lighting should be in the neighborhood of eight or more hours light per day and light intensity equal to or greater than 850 lux. A simple light and a timer can accomplish this indoors.

Feeding the Daphnia is where most aquarists fail. Daphnia feed on dissolved organic matter, yeast, various groups of bacteria, microalgae, and detritus, or mulm. Organic fertilizers, such as fresh cow manure. It is not recommended by our breeder, though, because of the antibiotics and supplements fed to dairy and beef cattle.

A much better mixture is a combination of one tablespoon each of spirulina, soy flour, and active dry yeast, added to a pint of water. This mixture should be added so that the water is cloudy, but you are able to see the bottom clearly, and observe the Daphnia swimming in the culture. This mixture should be added carefully every two or three days, being careful not to over feed. At this time, you should see an abundance of daphnia, and they can be harvested to feed your fish.

Breeding and Harvesting Water Fleas-Daphna

Harvesting is quite simple - simply use a small aquarium net, observing that the smaller Daphnia fall through the netting to grow further. In this way, the adults are harvested, and can be fed to your fish. The younger Daphnia can go on to produce still more fish food. Harvested Daphnia can be kept in the refrigerator for several days in clean water.

Daphnia are high in protein, and a very good diet for tropical fish. Some aquarists feed them exclusively. They provide up to 70% protein to your tropical fish, and are an excellent source of live food for the aquarium.

Much can be written on the culturing of Daphnia. this guide is only meant to help the beginner to live foods to establish a colony, and feed live food high in protein to their fish. A series of article on live foods is forthcoming, and can be viewed at http://www.kingdiscus.com.

About The Author:

Alden Smith is a published author who has been publishing on the internet for 7 years. Visit his website, http://www.kindiscus.com, for articles, software, and other resources. This article is one of a series available at http://www.kingdiscus.com

For more information click here

Aquarium Good and Bad Algae

Aquarium Good and Bad Algae

There are two categories of algae of concern to aquarists: "good" and "bad". Good algae is present in small quantities, is indicative of good water quality and is easily kept in check by algae eating fish or simple removal during routine maintenance. This algae is a natural consequence of having a container of water with nutrients and a light source.

Bad algae is either an indicator of bad water quality or is a type of algae that tends to overtake the tank and ruin the aesthetics the aquarist is trying to achieve. The label of "bad" is entirely subjective. For example, one type of green, hair-like algae is considered a plague by some American aquarists, yet is cultivated by European aquarists as a valuable addition to most tanks, serving as a dietary supplement for the fish.

Blue-green, slime or smear algae

Grows rapidly in blue-green, slimy sheets. Spreads rapidly over almost everything and usually indicates poor water quality. However, blue-green algae can fix nitrogen and may be seen in aquariums with extremely low nitrates. Will smother and kill plants.

It can be physically removed, but this is not a viable long term solution as the aquarium conditions are still favorable for it and it will return quickly. Treatment with 200 mg of erythromycin phosphate per 10 gallons of water will usually eliminate blue-green algae.

Brown algae

Forms in soft brown clumpy patches, usually indicates a lack of light or an excess of silicates. Increased light levels will usually make it disappear. Easily removed by wiping the glass or siphon vacuuming the affected area.

Green water

Green unicellular algae will sometimes reproduce so rapidly that the water will turn green, this is commonly called an "algae bloom" and is usually caused by too much light like direct sunlight. An algae bloom can be removed by filtering with micron cartridges or diatom filters. UV sterilizers can prevent the bloom in the first place. Green water is very useful in the raising of daphnia and brine shrimp.

Film algae

Grows on the aquarium glass and forms a thin haze, this is easily removed by wiping the glass; considered normal with the higher light levels needed for good plant growth.

Spot algae

Grows in thin, hard, circular, bright green spots, usually on the aquarium glass but also on plants under high light conditions. On acrylic aquariums, use a cloth pad or a gentle scouring pad like a cosmetic "Buff-Puff" and a lot of elbow grease. On glass tanks, scraping with a razor blade is most effective. You will find plenty of useful hints on keeping algae under control in the book First Aquarium Secrets.


Fuzz algae

Grows mostly on plant leaves as separate, short (2-3mm) strands. Considered normal. It might be a less "virulent" form of "beard" algae. Easily controlled with algae eaters such as black mollies, Octocinclus, 
Peckoltia and Siamese algae eaters.

Beard algae

Grows on plant leaves and is bright green. Individual strands have a very fine texture but it grows in thick patches and looks just like a green beard. It grows up to 4 cm. This does not indicate bad water quality but grows very fast and overtakes the tank, making it a "bad" alga. Can be eliminated with Simazine.

Hair algae

Grows in bright green clumps in the gravel, around the base of plants like Echinodorus and around mechanical objects. It has a coarser texture than "beard algae". Hair algae tends to form matted clumps. Individual strands can get to 5 cm or more. Remove mechanically by twirling a toothbrush in it.

Thread algae

Grows in long, thin strands up to 30 cm or more. Tends toward a dull green color (hard to tell because it is so thin). Usually indicates an excess of iron (> 0.15 ppm). Easily removed with a toothbrush like hair algae.

Staghorn algae

Looks like individual strands of hair algae but tends to grow in single branching strands like a deer antler and is grey-green. Seems to grow mostly on tank equipment near the surface. Difficult to remove mechanically. Soak affected equipment in a 25% solution of household bleach and water to remove it.

Brush algae

This grows in feathery black tufts 2-3 mm long and tends to collect on slower growing leaves like Anubias, some Echinodorus and other wide leaf plants. Also tends to collect on mechanical equipment. Remove and discard the affected leaves. Equipment can be soaked in a 25% bleach solution, then scrubbed to remove the dead algae. Siamese Algae Eaters are known to eat this algae and can keep it in check.

Visit www.first-aquarium secrets.com for more information and articles. This article is available for reprint for your website and newsletter, provided that you maintain its copyright integrity and include the signature.
From the desk of Laurence Magne, author of www.first-aquarium-secrets.com

A Guide To Stocking Tropical Freshwater Fish Tank Aquariums

A Guide To Stocking Tropical Freshwater Fish Tank Aquariums

Match-Making Fish
To make your fish tank a stunning swirl of color and activity, you will want to add a variety of tropical freshwater fish. All fish have different fin designs, patterns, colors, shapes, sizes, temperaments and ideal living conditions. 


For the welfare of fish and therefore the success of fish tank aquariums, it is necessary that you research the fish you would like, to know which ones can live together in health and harmony. 


For example, you cannot match (i.e. without stressing or harming your fish) peaceful and aggressive fish, ones that like cooler water and ones that need higher temperatures etc. Common sense stuff!


Space Out Your Fish
A good idea is to select fish that occupy different levels in tank aquariums so they don't need to compete for space. This adds a fair amount of activity and variety, enhancing the appeal of your fish tank.


Top-Dwelling Fish
Top-dwelling fish generally have upturned mouths for feeding at the water's surface. Danios are active and hardy with a long lifespan making them ideal especially for beginning aquarists. 


One of the most well-liked tropical freshwater fish is the Betta, an easy to look after, peaceful fish with striking fins and a remarkable variety of color. Hatchetfish are unusual but are moderately difficult to manage and are strong jumpers, so you need to replace the lid of your fish tank immediately after feeding and maintenance.

Middle-Dwelling Fish
Middle-dwelling fish could be most striking and be stocked with a mixture of schooling fish and larger colorful fish. Schooling fish are obviously happiest when they are among their own kind and you need to have around six. Examples of schooling fish include Rainbow fish and Tetras.
Rainbow fish are simple to take care of and their amazing iridescent colorations change when light reflects off these fish.


Neon Tetras choose to swim or remain suspended in schools to create a breathtaking array of color. All types of Platies and Guppies are excellent for middle-dwelling fish. 


They are both easy care fish and come in many bright color variations which add excitement and brilliance to tank aquariums. For something slightly larger, Swordtails are easy to look after and have wonderfully diverse fin and color varieties. Mollies add drama and contrast to any fish tank but require a moderate level of care. The following small Gouramis are of a peaceful temperament and easy to look after: Neon Blue Dwarf, Sparkling Gourami and Dwarf Gouramis.


Angels are a striking fish to include in your aquarium but bear in mind they are semi-aggressive and growing to 6 inches they also require at least a 30 gallon tank. 


For a larger tank (50 gallons), Cichlids are an option but many can show signs of aggression. Examples of peaceful ones are Acei Cichlid, Albino Kribensis Cichlid and Brichardi Cichlid. Of course, the Goldfish remains the most popular freshwater fish and comes in many varieties with amazing color patterns and features.


Bottom-Dwelling Fish
Bottom-dwelling fish have down-turned mouths, enabling them to feed on food that falls to the bottom of the tank, thereby keeping the substrate clean. Cory Cats are entertaining, energetic and peaceful scavengers. 


They remain relatively small and survive in a wide range of water conditions. For larger tank aquariums (30-50 gallons), Loaches will add color, interest and beauty to your fish tank aquarium. They are active bottom dwelling scavengers ideally suited for the community aquarium.


All Aggressive or All Peaceful
You will have noticed that I mainly refer to peaceful fish. These community fish can co-exist peacefully with members of their own species and other species of similar size. Being the kind of person who likes to ‘keep the peace' I prefer easy-going fish for an easy life but if you like a bit more action, by all means pick aggressive fish. 


Just remember to keep all the fish species in your fish tank aggressive so no one gets bullied! Aggressive fish are aggressive toward their own species and/or other species, regardless of their size.


Size Of Fish Tank
Most of the fish mentioned are ideal for smaller tank aquariums. Danios, Platies, Bettas, Gouramis and Tetras measure around two inches and are good for the smaller 10 gallon tanks. 


Though small, Guppies thrive best in at least a 20 gallon tank along with Hatchetfish, while the larger Swordtails, Mollies, Rainbow Fish, Angels, Goldfish and Cory Cats will require a minimum of a 30 gallon tank. Loaches and Cichlids normally require a 50 gallon tank.


Do Your Homework!
These tropical freshwater fish are only a guide to varieties of fish which would be suitable in tropical freshwater aquariums. 


It is essential that you research the fish including size, temperament, the tending they require in order to grow and breed, the food they eat, and the water parameters in which each individual type of fish is the most comfortable with. This will be vital in determining the varieties of fish that can be suitably matched. Copyright © 2009 Jill Kaestner @ Kaestner Marketing LLC

Cichlids-How to Keep Lake Malawi African Cichlids

Cichlids-How to Keep Lake Malawi African Cichlids

Probably the most popular fish of all time. With many beautiful species occurring naturally in Africa's Lake Malawi you can recreate your own piece of Africa right in your living room. 


Vibrant colors and quirky behavior along with ease of care are the 3 main reasons the Malawi African Cichlids are so popular. Here are some great tips to help you look after yours.

Replicate the Natural Environment

A couple of facts about Lake Malawi: The average surface temperature ranges between 23 and 28 degrees Celsius. 


Throughout the lake the pH is a relatively stable 7.8 to 8.5. Replicating these conditions as closely as possible will provide your cichlids with a comfortable environment in which they can thrive. 


Ideally Malawi African Cichlids should have their own aquarium and as usual the larger the better. Larger aquariums minimize fluctuations in water quality, temperature and chemistry.

Temperature should be as constant as possible and although you need to do a little research for your particular species, 26 degrees Celsius is commonly quoted as the accepted average temperature. 

Get your pH to at least 7.8 and keep it there with use of either limestone in your filter or as part of your substrate. 

Buffering can be done with aquarium specific chemicals if necessary. Remember to check your PH between water changes to ensure it doesn't drop too far.

pH Tip: Never attempt to adjust the pH of your tank if you're not performing a water change. Adding buffering chemicals directly to the tank will cause harm to your fish.

Lighting isn't a critical factor in the Malawi African Cichlid aquarium, make sure your lighting isn't too bright for your fish but light enough for you to enjoy the aquarium. 


Most species won't allow you to keep live aquatic plants meaning your lighting doesn't have to be powerful enough for plant growth.

Water flow and surface area are the key points for filtration. Have the water in your tank turned over at least 10 times an hour. Water flow will oxygenate the water and prevent pockets of stagnant water. 

 

Good bacteria will grow over every surface of your filter media and this will keep the water in good condition between water changes. 


Perform water changes of 30-40% every 2 weeks if you have an average number of fish in your tank.

Feed your fish dependent on their age. 


Baby fish (fry) should be fed sparingly up to 4 times a day, juveniles up to 2 times a day and adults once every other day. Feed amounts the fish will completely consume in 2 minutes (not 5 minutes!). 


Most people overfeed fish, particularly adult fish, they will be healthier and live longer if you feed sparingly. 


Spirulina rich food is always a good choice for Lake Malawi African Cichlids, also consider crustaceans such as Mysis, Cyclops and Krill along with some shrimp mix. Avoid protein rich foods such as regular fish flake.

Cichlid Fry - How to Breed Cichlids

Malawi African Cichlids