Sunday, January 29, 2012

Aquarium Fish-Keeping Cichlids, Breeding cichlids



Group Cichlids-Photo by georgiaaquarium.org

People begin keeping
fresh water cichlids and purchase new aquarium because of their beauty. With the variety of colors and shapes, it's not unlike saltwater fish tank without the fuss and expense of salt water tank, without the salt or the upkeep of salt water fish tank!

However before long, some people become interested in breeding cichlids, rather than just having them. Quite often this is due to the cichlids breeding without any intervention on the aquarist's part, who thereafter becomes interested in keeping the next batch of fry.

By and large, the majority of African cichlids are mouthbrooders. This means that the eggs are actually brooded in one of the parents' mouth - typically the female cichlid's mouth. Other types of cichlids (shell dwellers for example) they are egglayer cichlids. How do you get your cichlids to breed? How can you protect the female, and ensure that the eggs hatch successfully? And then how do you protect the young from hungry predators?

The first step in breeding cichlids is to obtain fish that will breed. While this may seem obvious, it's not as simple as obtaining a male and female of the same species of tropical fish. With African cichlids, it's much better to obtain a harem, quite often referred to as a breeding colony. If you only have a pair, the male may be too aggressive towards the one available female, resulting in stress and potential death.

When you have your breeding colony, you'll want to give them a good environment. Have plenty of caves, rocks, shelves and crevices that the cichlids can choose as their territory and breeding ground. Don't bother with aquarium plants; they'll only be removed by the cichlids!

To get your African cichlids in breeding condition, you need to feed them well. I've always found spirulina flakes to be excellent quality food, as well as the occasional earthworm, white worm or crickets and live bay shrimp.

When the fish are ready to breed, you'll notice the male chase the female and do a mating dance, which consists of shimmying in front of the female. The female will drop eggs, and then proceed to pick them up in her mouth.

The male will fertilize them. It has been theorized that this is where the 'egg spots' come into play. The egg spots are the small round yellowish spots on the male's anal fin. Many feel that when the male shimmies, these look like eggs that the female hasn't yet collected. She attempts to, and the eggs that are in her mouth are able to be fertilized by the male.

The process will be repeated a number of times, until the female loses interest (just like people!). If the eggs weren't properly fertilized, they will be disposed of. If they're fertilized, they will be kept until the eggs are hatched and the yolk sacks have disappeared. This can take from three to five weeks.

If you want to keep the baby cichlids, I strongly suggest that you remove the female to a comfortable tank for the female cichlid a place of her own. This can be a smaller tank, with some rockwork for her to hide in.

You don't need to feed her, although when the eggs hatch (you'll see the wigglers in her mouth) you may want to toss in a very small amount of flake food. She may pick at it for the sake of the fry. There will be a follow-up article explaining how to strip the female cichlid, a process necessary if she won't release the eggs or if she eats them.

To feed the babies, you can crush up some flake food into a fine powder. Take a little, mix it with water. Then suck it into a straw of piece of aquarium tubing. Then insert it into the water near the swimming cichlid fry, and release it for them to eat.

Allow the female cichlid to feed back to health before putting her back in the tank. Also, try to keep the fry with her for at least 1 week.

There are over 160 genera and more than 900 species of Cichlids with newly discovered species reported on a regular basis. This group offers a huge diversity of color, behavior, size, and body shape. Cichlids are widespread throughout the world, including Africa, South America, Asia, Central America, and even North America

All these Cichlids come from only one family, Cichlidae, and thus are separated in this book by the geographical area from which they are found. Most Cichlids kept in captivity come from the Great African Rift Lakes, Lake Malawi or Lake Tanganyika; various African rivers, the Amazon Basin in South America, or Central America.
   

SOCIAL BEHAVIOR


 
The Cichlid Family includes a huge, diverse group of fish. Thus, it is difficult to make generalizations about this family. However, it is safe to say that many cichlids have a tendency towards aggressive behavior. This conduct can be attributed to cichlids' highly developed brood care. Other cichlids are shoaling fish which are best kept in groups like

Blue Dolphin Cichlids-Blue Moorii.


PAIRING:- several different types of bonds are formed between male and female cichlids.

These include the following:
Monogamy-The female and the male remain together after spawning.
Polygyny- The male stays together with several females
Polyandry- The female bonds with several males. This form of pairing is rare.
Agamy- No lasting bond is formed between the pair and they separate right after spawning.

BROOD CARE





Cichlids take care of their young in several different ways. Six "family" forms are common among cichlid parents.

Nuclear or Parental Family: Both parents equally share the duties of caring for the young. Nuclear families are usually formed by monogamous, open-water brooders, although exceptions are common. It is generally very difficult to distinguish between the sexes.

Matriarch/Patriarch Family: The female watches over the brood, while the male defends the territory. When the fry become free-swimming, the parents bear the tasks of parenthood equally. This family form is usually formed by monogamous, open-water brooders. Sexual dimorphism and dichromatism is common.

Patriarch/Matriarch or Male-with-Harem Family: The male defends a large territory, which includes multiple spawning sites of several females. Each female assumes the responsibility of her own brood. The male is polygamous, and clear sexual dimorphism is present. This form takes place among cavity brooders.

Matriarch Family: No bond is formed between the pair. The female cares and guards the eggs and the fry. In this family pattern, the fish are agamous and usually the female is an Ovophile mouthbrooder.

Patriarch Family: As with the Matriarch Family, no bond is formed between the parents.  The male carries the eggs and the fry. No sexual dimorphism or dichromatism can be found. Only one mouthbrooder forms a true patriarch family, Sarotherodon melanothe row.

Extended Family: The parents as well as the offspring of previous spawning care for the young. Extended Families are formed by cavity brooders of
Lake Tanganyika, including the fish belonging to the genera Julidochromis and Neolamprologus. 

BREEDING




Cichlids have highly developed brood care and reproductive behavior. Nearly all Cichlids lay their eggs on some substrate, whether it be rocks, plants, or sand. Cichlids are now characterized into two breeding groups; Open and Shelter Brooders.

Open brooders lay eggs on an open surface, such as rocks, sand, and plants. The eggs can number as high as 10,000 from one laying. These eggs are usually small and clump together. Clear sexual dimorphism and dichromatism is usually evident. Examples of open water brooders include Pterophyllum, Symphysodon, and most species of Cichlasoma.

Shelter brooders can be divided up into two groups; cavity brooders and mouth brooders. Thereby in general, shelter brooders lay substantially less eggs, usually not more than 300, and have larger more colorful eggs. These fish are easier to sex because males are larger and more colorful.

Cavity brooders lay their eggs in caves. The parents participate in brood care and may become aggressive towards other fish while caring for the eggs and the fry. Examples of cavity brooders include Apistogramma, Julidochromis, Neolamprologus, and Pelvicachromis.

Mouth-brooders are fish that, at some point during brood care, will take their eggs or the fry into their mouths. Mouth-brooders are divided up into two further categories depending on when the parents take the eggs/fry are taken into the mouth. 

Ovophile or "egg-loving" mouth-brooders - The male makes a pit in his territory, where the eggs are laid. The eggs are sucked up into the female's mouth usually, but occasionally, during spawning. After hatching the fry remain in the safety of the mother's mouth until they can fend for themselves.

The male, of some of these species, often has colorful, oval-shaped marks on its anal fin. These spots serve an important role in the fertilization of the eggs and are known as egg spots or egg dummies.

After the female has laid her eggs and sucks them into her mouth. She sees the eggs spots on the males, and thinking they were eggs she missed, will try to suck them up. At this moment the male releases sperm which the female sucks up into her mouth, thus fertilizing the eggs. Such as Ovophile mouthbrooders include- Aulonocara, Haplochromis, and Pseudotropheus.

Larvophile or "larvae-loving" mouth-brooders lay their eggs on a substrate. After the eggs hatch, the female picks up the fry and keeps them in her mouth. Sometimes the parental protection stops after the fry are released from the mouth; Examples of Larvophile mouth-brooders are Geophagus and Sarotherodon.

DUMMY-EGG SPOTS








Many cichlids, especially those of Lake Malawi, have colored patches on the anal fin which serve to aid spawning. These patches are known as egg-spots, dummy eggs, egg dummies, or false egg spots. These spots are especially important in the fertilization of the real eggs.

When the female takes the real eggs into her mouth, the male spreads his anal fin, displaying his egg spots. The female sees these and sucks at them assuming that they are real eggs. At that moment the male releases sperm, which the female sucks into her mouth, thus fertilizing the eggs.

FEEDING




 

Since there is such a variety of cichlid species, cichlids have a wide range of feeding habits. However most cichlids have an enormous appetite and are easily fed.

Omnivorous cichlids make up the greatest majority of cichlids. In nature, these fish feed mostly on insects, crustaceans, and worms, but at times also eat plants. Thus in aquaria these species should be offered a mixed diet of live foods, flakes foods, and plant or vegetable matter. Examples of omnivorous cichlids include Cichlasomines, many West African species, Angelfish, and Herosspecies.

Carnivorous cichlids are predatory species which are specialized for eating other fish. Generally these species will eat small tank mates, although not fish of a similar size. In aquaria, carnivorous cichlids can be fed live fish, worms, insects, insect larvae, and crustaceans, but also some will accept pellets, tablets, and large flakes.  Examples of carnivorous cichlids are many Haplochromines, Pike Cichlids (genus Crenicichla), Cyphotilapia and Convict cichlid (Amatitlania nigrofasciata) species.

Herbivorous cichlids are species that prefer to feed on plant matter. These fish will eat live aquarium plants. In aquaria, herbivorous cichlids feed on plant-based flake and pellet foods, plants, and vegetables. Some species will also feed on live foods. Examples of herbivorous cichlids include some of the Tilapia species and majority of the Mbuna cichlids are herbivores, Pseudotropheus crabro, – A Malawi Cichlid, The Peacock cichlids.

Some species of herbivorous cichlids feed on the thick algae growing on rocks. Living in the algae are micro-organisms and crustaceans known as Aufwuchs. Types of cichlids that consume the algae and the Aufwuchs living within include Lake Malawi Mbunas and Lake Tanganyika Tropheus.

STRIPPING
 
Once we have a case in which stripping must be performed, there are some rules to follow in order to make it safer for you and your fish. Before handling the female WASH YOUR HANDS ALL THE WAY TO YOUR ELBOWS THOUGHTLY WITH SOAP AND WATER AND DRY OFF be sure to wet your hands in the tank, dry fingers can damage the protective mucus or even tear scales apart.

Hold her body firmly but without pressing it, and use a wide bowl to keep the head under the water while you gently open her mouth with a paper clip, Q-tip, etc., and allow the eggs to fall to the bottom. It’s been most peoples experience with few exceptions, rarely do they get any viable fry when stripped the next day after spawning.

Most people prefer to wait at least five days, after the eggs have hatched and then place them inside their filter. Most people prefer using the "hang on" type of filter that returns the water to the tank as a small waterfall. They place the eggs in a net (to avoid the waterfall dragging them) so they receive a continuous flow of clear oxygenated water.

Any white, fungused eggs must be quickly removed away from the viable ones. Survival rates are over 90%. Of course breeders will develop techniques and skills that fit their tank set up and the species they keep.

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Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Site Map: African Cichlids Fish

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Friday, January 13, 2012

FISH ILLNESS- Fin Rot

Fin Rot Reddening or Inflamation


Inflammation in humans is primary cause of heart failure what had been discovered inflammation in any animal can be deadly. The informational edge of the lesion is usually opaque or whitish. In advanced cases there may be some reddening or inflammation. The main threat from this fish disease is, if left untreated fin rot can slowly eat away the entire fin along with the fin rays and start to invade the fish’s body, leading to peduncle disease if the caudal (tail) fin is involved, or saddleback ulcer if the dorsal (top) fin is affected.

Koi Fin Rot
Fin rot is a bacterial disease involving opportunistic bacteria such as Aeromonas, Pseudomonas or Flexibacter that abound in all aquatic environments. Secondary fungal infections are not uncommon and can cause unremitting problems.  Fin rot is the easiest symptom to see.  The edges of the fins are ragged, torn and missing.  Often the areas where the rotting is occurring is red and inflamed with infection.  Left to run its coarse the fins can be eaten totally away leaving the fish unable to swim properly often causing death.

Sometimes fin rot is accompanied by fungus that feeds off the dead tissue left behind by the infection.  If the cause of the fin rot is taken away the fungus should go away on its own but we do have fungus medications that can relieve the symptom quicker.

A severe infection of the caudal fin of a koi; there is extensive inflammation around the lesion extending into the body of the fish. This fish recovered and surprisingly the fin did partially re-grow, with the two halves knitting back together


Leading Edge of the Lesion 
Typical fin rot affecting the dorsal fin of a koi. On the leading edge of the lesion is an area of white necrotic tissue. Surrounding this is a large area of inflamed, infected tissue. The front fin ray has been exposed and destroyed. The infection has reached the fish's body

A extreme example of fin rot of the caudal fin. The white necrotic region of the fin edge is clearly visible. The whole of the fin is very red and inflamed. The infection has entered the body of the fish resulting in raised scales

 

Fin Rot Is Usually Caused By Sustained Stress

With very few exceptions, virtually all cases are precipitated by sustained stress, fear or poor water conditions and quality. In my opinion curing fin rot; you should change 1/3 of your aquarium water and add fresh water and aquarium salt. Directions are the aquarium salt bag or box in 3 day you will remove 1/3 of your tank water add fresh water and aquarium salt you will repeat this process for 2 weeks. Aquarium salt is a natural healing agent for fish.
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Thursday, January 5, 2012

Live Plants for Cichlids-Aquarium Plants-Care-Information for Floaing Plants


Floating Plants

Floating plants do serve useful and integral purpose in the aquarium unfortunately some aquarists regard floating plants as unwanted pests. However floating plants do perform a effective principle for aquariums.  They offer shade for fish from the glare of the aquarium lights, and can provide a sanctuary for newly born young fish; if there are any Gourami in the aquarium they utilize fragments of the floating aquarium plants when building their bubble-nests.

 

In the aquarium and surface natural waters; the top of the water and surface above it is the best place for light and gas exchange. Most plants, even when rooted in the substrate, try to send their leaves and stem close to the surface to take advantage of this prime aquatic real estate. Some plants have evolved to spend their entire lives floating in the water; several have even given up their roots finding them to be unnecessary in this environment.

Floating Plants in the Aquarium are Useful

Floating plants in particular for breeding purposes and providing hiding places for fry. They can also be used to shade parts of the aquarium if needed. And they can be quite useful if you want plants in a bare bottom tank. Several floating plants are commonly found for sale for both aquariums and ponds with varying degrees of ease of growth and usefulness for the aquarium.

Azolla

Azolla is a floating fern. There are about 6 living species in the genus, though more than 25 species have been recognized in fossils. Azolla is used in ponds, (if you have Koi think about these) and can be difficult to grow in the aquarium. Low water movement, nutrient rich waters, and high lighting are recommended for their growth.
1.     Azolla caroliniana,
2.     Filiculoides,
3.     Mexicana are native to some parts of North America.
4.     A pinnnata is considered an invasive plant on the federal noxious weeds list.
5.     Many Azolla have become noxious weeds in different countries across the world.

Unlike many plants that get in to the noxious weed list, Azolla are actually quite useful. Azolla have an interesting symbiotic relationship with a blue-green algae Anabaena azollae. Because of this relationship and the nitrogen fixing ability of the blue-green algae, Azolla are used as a green fertilizer. They are also supposed to be nutritious with a high level of protein and are used for livestock and even eaten by people.

Ceratophyllum
 
Hornwort, Ceratophyllum
Hornwort is a very common feathery leaved aquarium plant that will grow well in many aquariums. Hornwort also stands up to many fish that may have tendencies to include salads in their diets.

Hornwort is unique in that it will never develop roots. You can put the plant in bunches in the back of your tank and it can look nice that way but the plant will roots just won’t ever form and if you try to place any part of hornwort under the substrate, that portion will die.

Hornwort can grow under lower and higher light levels. In lower light it will be brighter green and thinner. In higher light the plant gets bushier and can get red tints particularly in the stem. In fact hornwort is usually very easy to grow in the aquarium and pretty much anywhere else. Though a native of North America, this plant has been introduced in many parts of the world where it’s become a problematic weed.

The Ceratophyllaceae have their own family and its relationship to other plants is still undetermined. They seem to be confusing plants for botanists, the number of different species isn’t certain either. Earlier sources argued at 1 or 2, newer sources list 6 or 7; but over 30 have been described, though many of those are almost certainly the same highly variable plants.

Eichhornia crassipes

Water hyacinth is a beautiful flowering plant, originally from South America and used mainly in ponds. E. azurea is listed on the federal noxious weed list but E. crassipes is listed as a noxious weed in many states and countries. It’s one of the most problematic of the invasive weeds in the world. It can fully cover a lake or pond from shore to shore.

Water hyacinth isn’t a practical plant for most aquariums. The plant can get quite tall if it does well and it usually doesn’t inside anyway. Considering its invasiveness, possible illegality in many states, and the fact it isn’t a practical plant in most aquariums, I would not suggest using it.

Lemnaceae family

Lemnaceae family-duckweed
The duckweeds and their close relatives are some of the most well known of aquatic plants, seeming to occur just about everywhere there’s water worldwide. Often duckweeds can become a pest in the home aquarium, but they can also be useful and aquarists have used them pretty much since there has been aquariums.

The duckweed plants are all small but come in several sizes of very small. The smallest are the Wolffia. These tiny plants are the smallest known flowering plants in the world with tiny leaves 1 to 1.5 millimeters. Wolffia are sometimes called water meal because of their small size. Unlike the larger duckweeds, Wolffia don’t have roots. This is a neat plant to have in the aquarium but very hard to keep because most fish seem to think their on the menu and ypur fish will eat them

Wolffia
The most common and middle sized duckweeds are the genus Lemna which have more than a dozen species. Duckweed is usually very easy to grow in the aquarium though I have had tanks where it just didn’t want to grow; some sources indicate this can mean there are nutritional deficiencies in the water.

Duckweed can look different in different aquariums, sometimes having very long roots hanging down in the tank, in other tanks fish may nibble on the roots keeping them very short. Sometimes duckweed may drop its roots making a mess of the bottom of the tank. Some aquarists use string or other barriers at the top of the tank to try to keep duckweed roped in to a specific area. The best way to control duckweed, if you don’t have a duckweed eating fish, is to remove the excess plants by hand.

Larger duckweeds include Spirodela and Landoltia. These are similar to the Lemna. Often in the wild and sometimes in the aquarium you will end up with several different types of duckweed growing in the same place.

Limnobium

Frogbit is another plant common for ponds that can grow in the aquarium. There are two species that may be available L. laevigatum, from Central and South America and L. spongia from North America. The plants are very similar in appearance. Both look like very large duckweed but they aren’t closely related. In fact they are from the family Hydrocharitaceae and are related to such diverse looking plants as Blyxa, Najas, Elodea and Vallisneria.
 
Frogbit will need good lighting to grow in the aquarium. If it likes your tank it can grow quickly and will have to be regularly thinned. Daughter plants grow on stolons to the sides of the plants. Also remember these plants can have very long roots which in most aquariums will easily reach to the substrate where they will be happy to anchor. Remember that under these plants it will be shady. Be sure to plan where they frogbit will sit on the surface of the aquarium accordingly.


Amazon Frogbit


Pistia stratiotes

Water lettuce is another plant used often in ponds. As the common name implies this plant looks like a head of lettuce sitting on top of the water with roots hanging below. Like water hyacinth you have to consider the height of the plant out of the water when considering it for the aquarium. It would probably work better in an open tank than one with a cover. This is not an easy plant to grow in the aquarium and it needs a great deal of light.

There is some debate about whether water lettuce is a native plant in the US or not, but either way it has been here a long time, since the first recorded observation was in 1765. It has caused problems as an invasive weed in some places and is listed in some states.

Riccia

Riccia fluitans Aquatic floating


Riccia fluitans common name is crystalwortused as lawn
Riccia fluitans is a liverwort that’s been getting a lot of attention lately as a ground cover. Tied to rocks it does make an attractive lawn plant in the aquarium, but for years it’s been used as it grows naturally, floating. In the past this plant was commonly called crystalwort and is referenced in aquarium literature from at least as early as the late 1800’s. It’s a particularly useful plant in the breeding of some fish. The dense mats can hide tiny fry, much better than even other floating plants or can be used on bottom aquarium as lawn or growing over rocks.

Salvinia

Salvinia is another floating fern most often used in ponds. It is interesting in that the “roots” seen floating below the plant is actually a modified leaf. There are considered to be 10 species of Salvinia. None of them are native to the United States though they are in the country now. 4 species are on the federal noxious weed list. They are also invasive in many other countries. Salvinia will sometimes grow in an aquarium under the right conditions but considering their status I would advise against growing them at this point.

Utricularia

Bladderworts are very interesting carnivorous plants, several of which you can keep in the aquarium. There are over 200 species of bladderworts world wide living both in the water and in moist environments. These can look like several other aquatic plants with their fine feathery leaves, but unlike the similar looking plants, bladderworts have tiny bladders. These small bladders capture tiny insects and crustaceans, sometimes even very tiny fish fry, depending on the type and size of the plant.

I’ve found bladderworts to be somewhat temperamental in the aquarium. Some are not very attractive and look more like hair algae with a few very tiny bladders thrown in. These types seem to grow about as well as hair algae in the aquarium and are generally a nuisance. Other more attractive bladderworts can be somewhat temperamental, growing well for some time then deciding to fade away, popping up again several months later. In tanks with added CO2 I’ve noticed they don’t play the fading away trick. I have noticed in the tanks I’ve put the bladderworts in with additional CO2 that the leaf growth isn’t as thick as the tanks without added CO2.

Bladderworts don’t usually flower in the aquarium but if they do the small and lovely flowers grow above the water. Depending on the species the flowers can range from yellow to violet.


Moss Ball (Chladophora aegagropila)



Moss Ball (Chladophora aegagropila)

Moss Ball
 
Due to variations within species, your item may not look identical to the image provided.

  • QUICK STATS
  • Care Level: Easy
  • Lighting: Moderate to High
  • Placement: Foreground
  • Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 3-8, pH 6.8-7.5
  • Propogation: Division
  • Color Form: Green
  • Supplements: High Quality Aquarium Fertilizer
  • Origin: Farm Raised, USA
  • Family: Cladophorales
All fishes love the Moss Ball-(although not floating plant this is highly recommended) Moss ball  is a spongy velvet-like green algae ball that in the wild is found around Japan and Northern Europe. They were once thought to be extremely slow growing, but recent studies suggest that the growth can be accelerated by providing more nutrients. In its natural habitat, they are moved around by undercurrents and sink or rise in order to receive plenty of light to carry out photosynthesis.

  

The Moss Ball requires moderate to high lighting, approximately 3 watts per gallon provided by full spectrum (5000-7000K) bulbs. The temperature of the water should be between 72°-82°F, with an alkalinity of 3-8 dKH and a neutral pH.

The Moss Ball propagates by division. It starts with a division line which progresses to the splitting off of a smaller new Moss Ball.; approximate purchase size is small: 1" to 1 -3/4" compared to when they start growing.

Summery

There’s a large selection of floating plants that can be used in the aquarium for a variety of purposes. Sometimes these plants can be overlooked when deciding what to put in your tank but the floating plants have a lot to offer. Floating plants can be useful for utilitarian purposes like breeding your fish or using plants in a bare bottom tank. Some of them have very fast growth and can be used to help clean up your tank. Floating plants can bring the beauty and interest of long hanging roots to your pristinely Aquascape planted tank. And floating plants can add something uniquely unusual for the collector, like the carnivorous bladderwort. There are many more floating plant species and many more uses for them than I could possibly cover in one column, but perhaps this brief review will encourage you to try some of them in your aquarium.

Originally appeared in the June 2007 issue of
Tropical Fish Hobbyist Magazine


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Wednesday, January 4, 2012

South America Cichlids-apistos

Apistos South American Dwarf Cichlid


A Male Apistogramma cacatuoides there is a German dwarf cichlid researcher Dr. Uwe Romer has found by studying apisto populations in the wild that these little fish live in a fairly crowded environment; with perhaps as many as a thousand fish in an area of nine square meters, with leaf litter up to one meter thick on the bottom. You can’t duplicate these conditions in a small aquarium, but you can in a large one he recommends keep your fish in tanks from no less than 40 gallon or 152 liters to 150 gallon or 658 liters aquariums

Large tanks provide many advantages; they are easier to maintain the proper pH and hardness. It is also easier to control the effects of ammonia and nitrites. Lastly, you will see the fish act in a way that more closely resembles their behavior in the wild. As an example, many as 125 of A. juruensis living in a 40 gallon aquarium and around 500 of A. cacatuoides living and doing well in a 150 gallon aquarium.



Of course, to have this many fish in a tank it must have the correct environment. To achieve this in one of two ways your aquariums have either lots of cured drift wood, rocks (i.e. granite) and live plants or live plants, cured driftwood, river rocks and leaf litter can be moss balls. Follow the usual precautions with the wood and rocks make sure they are clean (sterilizing is always required) and with rocks, (never use) use just any type of rocks that will alter the chemistry of your tank water like rocks with limestone in them use sterilized river rock or granite this requires boiling them and then placing them in large bucket of clean water for several days pour off the old water and rinse them daily add new clean water.

There are hundred of aquatic plants that can be used like Anubias- Sword plants are a good choice for the new hobbyist; since they tend to grow quite well even in less than optimal conditions. Dwarf Hairgrass. Pygmy Chain Swords, Indian Fern, Java Fern, Water Sprite, Moss Balls, Lilaeopsis brasiliensis and Dwarf Hairgrass. For spawning caves, very small plastic seeding planting pots or small ceramic pots they are available in most nurseries. They are cheaper than other sold in aquarium shops and you can get them in green which blend in with their environment. As often as not, though, the fish will spawn on a rock or log or plant leaves; but put the caves in the fish really like them caves make them feel safe and secure.

Water

The most important component for apisto aquarium is the water. There are three things about the water MUST be accurate;
1.      Hardness,
2.      pH,
3.      Cleanliness.

Is your water not quite good enough for apistos without any conditioning at all (100ppm hardness and a pH of 6.5 and run it through an R.O. (Reverse Osmosis) filter. Ion exchange is OK but if you are still not satisfied recharge them and run through again you probably won’t wear out the membrane in the R.O. filter.

The pH level in an aquarium is a measure of the tank's acidity. Most fish do best with a pH ranging from 6.5 to 7.5, but many aquarium keepers have difficulty maintaining these levels. With careful tank management, however, you can maintain the pH at a healthy level.
   
Tips & Warnings

  1. Fish can thrive in a range of pH levels. Most will do well a full point above or below their recommended "ideal." You should only use chemical pH-altering substances if the pH is several numbers away from where it should be.

  1. If you have difficulty regulating the pH in your aquarium, you may have either hard or soft water. Consider buying fish that naturally thrive in the pH level of your water.

  1. Rapid changes in pH can be dangerous to fish. If your aquarium pH is off, avoid rapidly changing it. Huge alterations in pH are far more likely to kill your fish than an incorrect pH.

Lights & Live Plants



Lights should be dim this can be attained through Ceratophyllum which floats on top of water;Hornwort is a very common feathery leaved aquarium plant that will grow well in many aquariums. Hornwort also stands up to many fish that may have tendencies to include salads in their diets.

Hornwort is unique in that it will never develop roots. You can put the plant in bunches in the back of your tank and it can look nice that way but the plant will roots just won’t ever form and if you try to place any part of hornwort under the substrate, that portion will die. 

Hornwort can grow under lower and higher light levels. In lower light it will be brighter green and thinner. In higher light the plant gets bushier and can get red tints particularly in the stem. In fact hornwort is usually very easy to grow in the aquarium and pretty much anywhere else. Though a native of North America, this plant has been introduced in many parts of the world where it’s become a problematic weed. 

The Ceratophy llaceae have their own family and its relationship to other plants is still undetermined. They seem to be confusing plants for botanists, the number of different species isn’t certain either. Earlier sources argued at 1 or 2, newer sources list 6 or 7; but over 30 have been described, though many of those are almost certainly the same highly variable plants. 

Although there are some very competent apisto keepers who use straight R.O. water for their fish, mix with tap water to achieve a desired hardness of 10ppm. Next I treat the water with Sodium Bisulfate to bring the pH down to 4.5. Also use peat in filters as well as leaves (either Oak or Birch) to bring the pH down. However, I have found that the peat and the leaves don’t get the pH as low as I like, so I supplement with Sodium Bisulfate. I like to A Female Apistogramma cacatuoides.end up with a pH of 5.0 to 5.5 for most of my fish. However, the fish in the A. pertensis and A. iniridae complex seem to like it lower, around 4.5 pH.

Water cleanliness means three things: filtration, water changes, and feeding. I prefer biological filters. Most aquarium manufacturers sponge filter media just don’t have enough surface area to keep my apisto tanks clean, or they require too much maintenance if you have a lot of tanks.

The filters I use are made up of glass partitions that separate one part of the tank from the rest and essentially turning in into a trickle filter. Next I mix peat into the bottom half layer of rock. Water changes are done once every week to nine days with my conditioned R.O. water resulting in the tanks staying nice and clean.

Feeding




The feeding part of the equation is simple. I feed only live baby brine shrimp twice a day and only as much as they can eat in five minutes or so. I know some apisto keepers who practically count the number of shrimp they put in the tank, but it is actually very important not to over feed because uneaten live shrimp breaks down quickly and apistos are very susceptible to bacterial infections caused by dirty water.

Species

Now that you have some idea as to the keeping of apistos some species of apisto are a bit more forgiving than others. Apistogramma cacatuoides, A. steindachneri, A. macmasteri, and A. sp. Schwarzsaum are all good fish for beginners. However, if given the right aquarium conditions, most apistos will adjust adequately to the aquarium environment.
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