Sunday, February 26, 2012

Wolf cichlid -parachromis, dovii, guapote, rainbow bass,


Wolf Cichlid- parachromis, dovii


Wolf Cichlid a fish by any other name this fish is called parachromis dovii, Dovii, Parachromis, Guapote, Leopard Cichlid or sport fishermen refer to this cichlid as Rainbow Bass or the Gold Bass. The name Dovii is paradoxical regarding this fish as it name implies means peace dove the Wolf Cichlid is not peaceful fish. The Wolf is playful, curious, and intelligent; this is one of the few cichlids that can be trained to be hand fed. In the areas where this cichlid is naturally occurring they are usually referred to as guapote (guapote blanco) or lagunero in Spanish and as rainbow or gold bass in English speaking regions all these names are describing just one fish and that is the wolf cichlid or in the US they are usually refereed to as dovii.

The wolf cichlid is one of the largest growing of the cichlidae family; The dovii is somewhat similar in appearance to the jaguar cichlid (Parachromis managuensis), however the dovii is larger and stockier, and a dark, solid, unbroken band runs horizontally thought the flank of the fish; in contrast jaguar cichlid possesses a series of large spots along the flank. Base color of the Wolf cichlid is gold, and well-kept specimens will take on a beautiful lavender color. They have random black spots all over their body and the young juveniles are gold with a black horizontal stripe.

Big and mean best describes this wolf cichlid. Dovii are known for their aggression, so tank mates need to compete with their temperament and size. It is recommended that these fish are kept in a large species tank with no tank mates to avoid issues. They will eat anything small enough to fit in their mouth, and will not hesitate to beat or kill more docile tank mates.

Feed pellets, frozen foods like silversides and krill, and earthworms on occasion. This fish is a substrate spawners. Wolf Cichlids are widely regarded as one of the most vicious cichlids available to aquarists; though many specimens may not live up to this reputation they are still considered wolf cichlid as extremely, strong and powerful cichlid with winning personality.

Breeding can be achieved with very little effort and no specific requirements are needed for breeding purposes. As long as water conditions are maintained at a desirable high quality, I use nitrates denitrator freshwater filtering systems in my opinion this type of filter is worth every penny what we as hobbyists fail to mention is the nitrate filter will greatly reduce the need for water changes in your fish tanks, saving you time, money, and reducing the stress on your Wolf Cichlids a breeding pair of such fish will readily spawn. The aquarium must be large 250 minimum to 500 gallon for a breeding pair of wolf cichlids. As with all members of its genus, these fish are large and heavily built cichlids that produce large amounts of body waste.

dovii Breeding/Reproduction

The Wolf Cichlid or Dovii Cichlid has been bred in captivity. They are substrate spawners and both parents will care for the young. When a pair is formed out of a group, the male should not be too hard on the female. Often times a male will excessively beat up on the female. In this case a divider with the bottom open just large enough to let the eggs be fertilized would be needed.

The female will lay over 1,000 of eggs that hatch in 5 days. The fry are free swimming in a few more days. The young can eat baby brine and other meaty preparations, and offer larger sized foods as they grow. Sort the fry by size as they grow as well, or the larger siblings will eat the smaller ones. The Wolf Cichlid is sexually mature at 10 to 14 months and will spawn about every 4 weeks.

To enhance the likelihood of acquiring a breeding pair, purchase several healthy very young and active juveniles at a young age (between 1” -2”) and grow these specimens until sexual maturity. Generally, you should have at least two breeding pairs. These fish will noticeably become more aggressive and territorial, Remove all other fish at this point and keep the newly formed breeding pair separate.



When a breeding pair had been successfully established, the male will begin to court the female by displaying his erect finnage to the female as he tries to impress her in an attempt for her to accept his mating invitation. The pair will begin to clean a flat surface if the female is responsive of the male's previous courting behavior. The female will then lay approximately 1000 - 2000 orange colored eggs which will then be fertilized by the male wolf cichlid.

The eggs will be vigorously guarded by both Dovii, parents and the amount of parental care is always shown to the eggs as well as the fry. When the eggs 'hatch' after approximately 5 -7 days as you can see in the video, both parents fan the eggs, the eggs should hatch after about 4 days into what we call "wrigglers"; the offspring (known as wrigglers in this stage in development) wrigglers cannot swim, consequently the name, and the wigglers do not need to be fed, because each wriggler has a yolk sac attached to their stomach and the wigglers feed off their yolk sack.

The wriggler stage lasts approximately 5 days, after which the fry become free swimming. Further it is not uncommon for one or both wolf parents will often transport the young into pre dug pits and are guarded the pit and again dig another pit and move the young again. Once the fry only become free swimming you will need to start feeding the fry; the best thing to feed the fry is frozen baby brine shrimp and quality high protein pellets ground to fine powder. 



The fry will begin to swim in approximately 7 days and should be fed with baby brine shrimp or alike. If you would like to rear these fry, they should be removed at this point as they will later be consumed by both parents as the female becomes due to spawn once more. Feed the fry baby brine shrimp until the stage where they are large enough to consume white worm, daphnia and other live foods.

When you purchase your young wolf fish in an attempt to acquire a breeding pair, try to buy fish from different sources. There is a high probability that when buying fish from the same source, fish will be from the same parents (siblings). Breeding fish in this manner may form offspring with genetic disorders usually associated with interbreeding; always buy your young wolf fish are of a similar size.

dovii Aquarium

The aquarium should be large (250 gallons or 947.35295 liters or 500 gallons or 1892.7059 liters) for a breeding pair of wolf cichlids. As with all members of this genus, these fish are large and heavily built cichlids that are aggressive and highly territorial. Decor could be kept to a minimum in such an aquarium and sand or fine gravel should be used as the main substrate. If you desire some landscaping either glue rock together or use a very large flower pots placed on it side if you want to include caves for female Dovii; for the substrate use many pieces of flat slate or rock should also be included for the female to lay her eggs upon; remember this fish is a digger and prefers to rearrange their habit. Include large moss balls or ping pond balls this is highly intelligent fish and suffer from extreme curiosity and boredom always leads to aggression.


wolf cichlid Care and Feeding   


The wolf cichlid or dovii is a carnivore, a predator that feeds on primarily other smaller fish, along with crustaceans and insects in the wild. In the aquarium they can have a pellet base foods but must be supplemented with fish, shrimp, earthworms, and other meaty foods; they prefer floating foods according to one fish keeper. Consider only feeding them frozen, since live fish can carry disease, unless you are willing to grow a ton of feeders on your own.

Keep in mind that giving them live foods makes them much more aggressive naturally. Fed them no more than 3 times a day and feed them only enough food they can eat in 5 minutes. Then do not feed them for 1.5 to 2 days once every other week this is the same as in the wild. Further this will keep the water quality higher over a longer time. All fish require vitamins and supplements added to their foods.

Remember this is a big cichlid that requires a lot of free swimming space, a tank of over 120 gallons is suggested for their long term care. Ideally 150 gallons for a female and 200 gallons for a male should be provided and over 300 gallons if you attempt to breed them. They need good water movement along with strong and efficient filtration. The female wolf cichlid requires and needs many hiding places to protect herself from the male wolf cichlid.


Provide lots of rocks, bog wood and tunnels to dig under with sandy or fine gravel substrate. Put large heavy rocks on the glass, not on the substrate because they dig under everything and falling rocks can crack your glass aquarium and scratch your acrylic tank. Glue desired rock formations together or your Wolf Cichlid will have other plans for your perfectly placed rock tower, just leave some rocks and stuff for them to move that where the large moss ball and ping pong balls come in; Decorating with tough plants is also possible, though strong light levels can cause algae growth. Do water changes of Water changes of 20 - 40% up to twice a week, give or take depending on your water quality.

dovii Diet

The Parachromis are not fussy eaters and will readily accept most food substances offered. Cichlid pellets are a good daily food. Diet should be varied however. Offer a variety of insect, including white worms, crickets (for larger specimens). Chopped meat can also be offered along with frozen finely chopped chicken no bones, frozen halibut, frozen salmon, frozen krill, small/medium silkworms are for medium and large aquarium fish of all types of cichlids excellent for Oscars, Cichlids, Large Angelfish, Barbs and many more; according to many animal experts, Silkworms are one of the healthiest insects you can feed your fish and other pets. Silkworms are low in fat content, are a high source of Calcium, Protein, Iron, Magnesium, Sodium and Vitamins B1, B2, and B3. Silkworms; do provide the essential variety required to maintain healthy cichlids. but never beef heart (due to its high fat content) along with prawn, wheat germ,  Hikari Tropical Food Sticks and high quality pellet carnivore food.
           
Supplement your meat-eating fish's diet with this complete nutritional package. Carnivore diets generally lack a lot of necessary elements. Food Sticks fill in the remaining gaps by providing a full assortment of essential vitamins and minerals to promote health and enhance coloration and (/frozen) Silversides frozen fish. Frozen fish is a much preferred method of feeding fish as many "feeder fish" carry the risk of the introducing disease into your aquarium, possibly harming your breeding wolf cichlid. I can speak to this I feed my Moray Ells and my Ribbon Ells feeder fish and approximately year they would die when I stopped feeding (feeder fish) to my ells and only frozen fish I’m happy to say they are doing fine and are now approximately eight year old.

Sexing

Females tend to be smaller than males but in some cases can grow just as big or as bigger than their spawn mates. The gold/yellow coloration is more prominent in the females, especially during courtship, breeding and raising fry. The male's dorsal and ventral fins are also much more elongated than the female's. Males tend to have more spots and will take on a beautiful lavender color comport varies on individual females or males and situations but aggression is usually to be expected during courtship and spawning periods.

Water chemistry

pH of 7.0 - 8.0 preferably;
Temperature of 23.9-27.8°C (75 -82 °F)
Water Hardness 15-20 °d


Stocking Ratio
1:1 M:F

Size of Wolf Cichlid
65-72 cm (25.6-30.") This fish grows to a length of 30" (72 cm).

Diet
Carnivore
Pellet Foods
Flake Foods
Live Food

Life Span Wolf Cichlid
8-12 years

Wild Wolf Cichlid Habitat
Central America

Family
Cichlidae

Parachromis dovii
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Parachromis dovii
Scientific classification
Kingdom:       Animalia
Phylum:           Chordata
Class:             Actinopterygii
Order:             Perciformes
Family:            Cichlidae
Subfamily:      Cichlasomatinae
Genus:            Parachromis
Species:         P. dovii
Binomial name
Parachromis dovii
(Günther, 1864)

Infection/Diseases

The dovii cichlids are subject to infections as well as other diseases that ail all freshwater fish. One common problem is Ich. It can be treated with the elevation of the tank temperature to 86° F (30° C) for 3 days. If that does not cure the Ich, then the fish needs to be treated with copper (remove any water conditioners). Several copper based fish medications are available for Ich. Copper use must be kept within the proper levels, so be sure to follow the manufacturer’s suggestions. A copper test can be used to keep the proper levels. You can also combine increasing the temperature with an Ich medication treatment. Intestinal disease can be treated with metronidazol.

Wolf Cichlid Water Region: Top, Middle or Bottom: These fish will swim in the middle areas of the aquarium.

Social Behaviors:    This is not a community fish, it is a predator that is territorial and aggressive and even more aggressive when spawning. The Wolf Cichlid can be kept alone, or as a mated pair. Other Wolf Cichlids in the tank will be killed by the dominant male.

This fish can only be kept with larger fish that have the same temperament and cannot be swallowed. The Wolf Cichlid will even try to consume a larger fish that is mellower than it by ripping it to pieces if it cannot swallow it whole. The mixed aquarium must be hundreds of gallons with rocks used to form natural territory borders and lots of hiding places for the other fish. It is not suggested to house them with any other fish and they are best served in a species specific tank. If you live in a warm area, they can be kept in a pond.

Sexual Differences: Males are larger, and the females are mostly yellow.


Availability:  The Wolf Cichlid or Dovii Cichlid are sometimes available online and sometimes in fish stores. They will run about $10.00 USD for 2” very young dovii juveniles and if you raise dovii you too should sell at 1.5" to 2".


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Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Aquarium Plant Easy Fast Growing, Anacharis narrow Leaf, Egeria Nanas, Substrate Vitalization


South America Egeria najas aka Anacharis narrow leaf
South America Egeria najas also known as Anacharis narrow leaf is very similar to the very popular common Anacharis (E. densa) but has narrow leaves that sprout from a more delicate thin stalk. The leaves may curl downward slightly at the ends.  These plants can be planted in the substrate plant with anchor weight or can remain floating at the surface. Anacharis narrow leaf  plant is easy to grow; grows well in low or medium light and this plant is great for South America Convict cichlids, Chocolate cichlids where you must use only low lights' on a cheap timer convict cichlid require low light environment and the lights should never be left on more than 7 hours.

Just like Common Anacharis it makes an ideal aquatic plant for beginners as it is one of the easier plants to keep. It is a terrific oxygenating plant and will do wonders for the inhabitants of your aquarium by adding oxygen and by using up excess nitrates that could harm your inhabitants.

Hardiness:  Easy
Light Needs: Low to Medium
Plant Structure: Stem
Family: Hydrocharitaceae
Genus: Egeria
Region: South America
Growth rate: Very fast

You are buying 1 bunch, approx. 6 stems, Plant weight included with all bunched plants.
Anacharis Narrow Leaf (Egeria najas)
                       
Description: Narow Leaf Anacharis                  
Common Name: Narow Leaf Anacharis
Family Name: Hydrocharitacea
Native To: South America
Lighting: Low Light to Medium
pH: 7.0
Growth Demands: Easy
Growth Rate: Fast
True Aquatic: Yes
Placement in Tank: Background
Available As: Bunch

Egeria najas is a good plant for beginners, and its rapid growth helps create a balance in the aquarium from the start. It can also help prevent algae because it absorbs a great number of nutrients from the water. The plant secretes antibiotic substances which can help prevent blue-green algae (a type of bacteria). The growth rate depends largely on the amount of light and nutrition available. Growth does not stop in unfavorable conditions, but the plant turns light in color and the tendrils grow thin.

www.AquariumPlants.com own: SUBSTRATE VITALIZATION                    

         
Accessories for this product...
Lead Weights (not pure) Plant Anchors (quantity of 10) or add Professional Plant Anchors 


REVIEWS of  Anacharis narrow Leaf, Egeria Nanas,          
Generous bunch, very healthy    June 22, 2011
Reviewer: Arlen from Canada    
I received a very nice, fat bunch, which was very healthy and vigorous. A nice addition to the tank. Thanks!!


Clean, great shape        October 7, 2010
Reviewer: Liz from ID, USA      
I ordered and received 5 generous bunches; each about 8 inches long.  The nicest specimens I've seen.

           
Uhhhh-mazing!             March 13, 2010
Reviewer: Kenzie from Yakima, WA United States        
I ordered 3 of these for my 10 gallon "jungle" and love 'em! They seem to add a lot of texture to the aquarium and make it very exotic. I will defiantly be ordering from you guys again, Thanks!

           
Great Starter Plant!       February 21, 2009
Reviewer: Jan Burroughs from Le Claire, IA United States         
I am new to aqua gardening and recently ordered 4 of these plants. They arrived in great condition and within a week I could see new growth. - Awesome starter plant - thanks so much!

Aquarium Plants
Aquarium Plants - Bunched Plants

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Sunday, January 29, 2012

Aquarium Fish-Keeping Cichlids, Breeding cichlids



Group Cichlids-Photo by georgiaaquarium.org

People begin keeping
fresh water cichlids and purchase new aquarium because of their beauty. With the variety of colors and shapes, it's not unlike saltwater fish tank without the fuss and expense of salt water tank, without the salt or the upkeep of salt water fish tank!

However before long, some people become interested in breeding cichlids, rather than just having them. Quite often this is due to the cichlids breeding without any intervention on the aquarist's part, who thereafter becomes interested in keeping the next batch of fry.

By and large, the majority of African cichlids are mouthbrooders. This means that the eggs are actually brooded in one of the parents' mouth - typically the female cichlid's mouth. Other types of cichlids (shell dwellers for example) they are egglayer cichlids. How do you get your cichlids to breed? How can you protect the female, and ensure that the eggs hatch successfully? And then how do you protect the young from hungry predators?

The first step in breeding cichlids is to obtain fish that will breed. While this may seem obvious, it's not as simple as obtaining a male and female of the same species of tropical fish. With African cichlids, it's much better to obtain a harem, quite often referred to as a breeding colony. If you only have a pair, the male may be too aggressive towards the one available female, resulting in stress and potential death.

When you have your breeding colony, you'll want to give them a good environment. Have plenty of caves, rocks, shelves and crevices that the cichlids can choose as their territory and breeding ground. Don't bother with aquarium plants; they'll only be removed by the cichlids!

To get your African cichlids in breeding condition, you need to feed them well. I've always found spirulina flakes to be excellent quality food, as well as the occasional earthworm, white worm or crickets and live bay shrimp.

When the fish are ready to breed, you'll notice the male chase the female and do a mating dance, which consists of shimmying in front of the female. The female will drop eggs, and then proceed to pick them up in her mouth.

The male will fertilize them. It has been theorized that this is where the 'egg spots' come into play. The egg spots are the small round yellowish spots on the male's anal fin. Many feel that when the male shimmies, these look like eggs that the female hasn't yet collected. She attempts to, and the eggs that are in her mouth are able to be fertilized by the male.

The process will be repeated a number of times, until the female loses interest (just like people!). If the eggs weren't properly fertilized, they will be disposed of. If they're fertilized, they will be kept until the eggs are hatched and the yolk sacks have disappeared. This can take from three to five weeks.

If you want to keep the baby cichlids, I strongly suggest that you remove the female to a comfortable tank for the female cichlid a place of her own. This can be a smaller tank, with some rockwork for her to hide in.

You don't need to feed her, although when the eggs hatch (you'll see the wigglers in her mouth) you may want to toss in a very small amount of flake food. She may pick at it for the sake of the fry. There will be a follow-up article explaining how to strip the female cichlid, a process necessary if she won't release the eggs or if she eats them.

To feed the babies, you can crush up some flake food into a fine powder. Take a little, mix it with water. Then suck it into a straw of piece of aquarium tubing. Then insert it into the water near the swimming cichlid fry, and release it for them to eat.

Allow the female cichlid to feed back to health before putting her back in the tank. Also, try to keep the fry with her for at least 1 week.

There are over 160 genera and more than 900 species of Cichlids with newly discovered species reported on a regular basis. This group offers a huge diversity of color, behavior, size, and body shape. Cichlids are widespread throughout the world, including Africa, South America, Asia, Central America, and even North America

All these Cichlids come from only one family, Cichlidae, and thus are separated in this book by the geographical area from which they are found. Most Cichlids kept in captivity come from the Great African Rift Lakes, Lake Malawi or Lake Tanganyika; various African rivers, the Amazon Basin in South America, or Central America.
   

SOCIAL BEHAVIOR


 
The Cichlid Family includes a huge, diverse group of fish. Thus, it is difficult to make generalizations about this family. However, it is safe to say that many cichlids have a tendency towards aggressive behavior. This conduct can be attributed to cichlids' highly developed brood care. Other cichlids are shoaling fish which are best kept in groups like

Blue Dolphin Cichlids-Blue Moorii.


PAIRING:- several different types of bonds are formed between male and female cichlids.

These include the following:
Monogamy-The female and the male remain together after spawning.
Polygyny- The male stays together with several females
Polyandry- The female bonds with several males. This form of pairing is rare.
Agamy- No lasting bond is formed between the pair and they separate right after spawning.

BROOD CARE





Cichlids take care of their young in several different ways. Six "family" forms are common among cichlid parents.

Nuclear or Parental Family: Both parents equally share the duties of caring for the young. Nuclear families are usually formed by monogamous, open-water brooders, although exceptions are common. It is generally very difficult to distinguish between the sexes.

Matriarch/Patriarch Family: The female watches over the brood, while the male defends the territory. When the fry become free-swimming, the parents bear the tasks of parenthood equally. This family form is usually formed by monogamous, open-water brooders. Sexual dimorphism and dichromatism is common.

Patriarch/Matriarch or Male-with-Harem Family: The male defends a large territory, which includes multiple spawning sites of several females. Each female assumes the responsibility of her own brood. The male is polygamous, and clear sexual dimorphism is present. This form takes place among cavity brooders.

Matriarch Family: No bond is formed between the pair. The female cares and guards the eggs and the fry. In this family pattern, the fish are agamous and usually the female is an Ovophile mouthbrooder.

Patriarch Family: As with the Matriarch Family, no bond is formed between the parents.  The male carries the eggs and the fry. No sexual dimorphism or dichromatism can be found. Only one mouthbrooder forms a true patriarch family, Sarotherodon melanothe row.

Extended Family: The parents as well as the offspring of previous spawning care for the young. Extended Families are formed by cavity brooders of
Lake Tanganyika, including the fish belonging to the genera Julidochromis and Neolamprologus. 

BREEDING




Cichlids have highly developed brood care and reproductive behavior. Nearly all Cichlids lay their eggs on some substrate, whether it be rocks, plants, or sand. Cichlids are now characterized into two breeding groups; Open and Shelter Brooders.

Open brooders lay eggs on an open surface, such as rocks, sand, and plants. The eggs can number as high as 10,000 from one laying. These eggs are usually small and clump together. Clear sexual dimorphism and dichromatism is usually evident. Examples of open water brooders include Pterophyllum, Symphysodon, and most species of Cichlasoma.

Shelter brooders can be divided up into two groups; cavity brooders and mouth brooders. Thereby in general, shelter brooders lay substantially less eggs, usually not more than 300, and have larger more colorful eggs. These fish are easier to sex because males are larger and more colorful.

Cavity brooders lay their eggs in caves. The parents participate in brood care and may become aggressive towards other fish while caring for the eggs and the fry. Examples of cavity brooders include Apistogramma, Julidochromis, Neolamprologus, and Pelvicachromis.

Mouth-brooders are fish that, at some point during brood care, will take their eggs or the fry into their mouths. Mouth-brooders are divided up into two further categories depending on when the parents take the eggs/fry are taken into the mouth. 

Ovophile or "egg-loving" mouth-brooders - The male makes a pit in his territory, where the eggs are laid. The eggs are sucked up into the female's mouth usually, but occasionally, during spawning. After hatching the fry remain in the safety of the mother's mouth until they can fend for themselves.

The male, of some of these species, often has colorful, oval-shaped marks on its anal fin. These spots serve an important role in the fertilization of the eggs and are known as egg spots or egg dummies.

After the female has laid her eggs and sucks them into her mouth. She sees the eggs spots on the males, and thinking they were eggs she missed, will try to suck them up. At this moment the male releases sperm which the female sucks up into her mouth, thus fertilizing the eggs. Such as Ovophile mouthbrooders include- Aulonocara, Haplochromis, and Pseudotropheus.

Larvophile or "larvae-loving" mouth-brooders lay their eggs on a substrate. After the eggs hatch, the female picks up the fry and keeps them in her mouth. Sometimes the parental protection stops after the fry are released from the mouth; Examples of Larvophile mouth-brooders are Geophagus and Sarotherodon.

DUMMY-EGG SPOTS








Many cichlids, especially those of Lake Malawi, have colored patches on the anal fin which serve to aid spawning. These patches are known as egg-spots, dummy eggs, egg dummies, or false egg spots. These spots are especially important in the fertilization of the real eggs.

When the female takes the real eggs into her mouth, the male spreads his anal fin, displaying his egg spots. The female sees these and sucks at them assuming that they are real eggs. At that moment the male releases sperm, which the female sucks into her mouth, thus fertilizing the eggs.

FEEDING




 

Since there is such a variety of cichlid species, cichlids have a wide range of feeding habits. However most cichlids have an enormous appetite and are easily fed.

Omnivorous cichlids make up the greatest majority of cichlids. In nature, these fish feed mostly on insects, crustaceans, and worms, but at times also eat plants. Thus in aquaria these species should be offered a mixed diet of live foods, flakes foods, and plant or vegetable matter. Examples of omnivorous cichlids include Cichlasomines, many West African species, Angelfish, and Herosspecies.

Carnivorous cichlids are predatory species which are specialized for eating other fish. Generally these species will eat small tank mates, although not fish of a similar size. In aquaria, carnivorous cichlids can be fed live fish, worms, insects, insect larvae, and crustaceans, but also some will accept pellets, tablets, and large flakes.  Examples of carnivorous cichlids are many Haplochromines, Pike Cichlids (genus Crenicichla), Cyphotilapia and Convict cichlid (Amatitlania nigrofasciata) species.

Herbivorous cichlids are species that prefer to feed on plant matter. These fish will eat live aquarium plants. In aquaria, herbivorous cichlids feed on plant-based flake and pellet foods, plants, and vegetables. Some species will also feed on live foods. Examples of herbivorous cichlids include some of the Tilapia species and majority of the Mbuna cichlids are herbivores, Pseudotropheus crabro, – A Malawi Cichlid, The Peacock cichlids.

Some species of herbivorous cichlids feed on the thick algae growing on rocks. Living in the algae are micro-organisms and crustaceans known as Aufwuchs. Types of cichlids that consume the algae and the Aufwuchs living within include Lake Malawi Mbunas and Lake Tanganyika Tropheus.

STRIPPING
 
Once we have a case in which stripping must be performed, there are some rules to follow in order to make it safer for you and your fish. Before handling the female WASH YOUR HANDS ALL THE WAY TO YOUR ELBOWS THOUGHTLY WITH SOAP AND WATER AND DRY OFF be sure to wet your hands in the tank, dry fingers can damage the protective mucus or even tear scales apart.

Hold her body firmly but without pressing it, and use a wide bowl to keep the head under the water while you gently open her mouth with a paper clip, Q-tip, etc., and allow the eggs to fall to the bottom. It’s been most peoples experience with few exceptions, rarely do they get any viable fry when stripped the next day after spawning.

Most people prefer to wait at least five days, after the eggs have hatched and then place them inside their filter. Most people prefer using the "hang on" type of filter that returns the water to the tank as a small waterfall. They place the eggs in a net (to avoid the waterfall dragging them) so they receive a continuous flow of clear oxygenated water.

Any white, fungused eggs must be quickly removed away from the viable ones. Survival rates are over 90%. Of course breeders will develop techniques and skills that fit their tank set up and the species they keep.

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Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Site Map: African Cichlids Fish

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8http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/wolf-cichlid-parachromis-dovii.html2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00daily0.8000
9http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/cichlid-types-africian-central-america.html2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00daily0.8000
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14http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/blood-parrot-cichlid-anatomical.html2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00daily0.8000
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29http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/laetacara-curviceps-flag-acara-dwarf.html2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00daily0.8000
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36http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/keeping-and-breeding-green-terror.html2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00daily0.8000
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59http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/diy-driftwood-for-aquarium_04.html2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00daily0.6400
60http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/proper-temperature-for-tropical.html2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00daily0.6400
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62http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/aquarium-upkeep-basics.html2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00daily0.6400
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Friday, January 13, 2012

FISH ILLNESS- Fin Rot

Fin Rot Reddening or Inflamation


Inflammation in humans is primary cause of heart failure what had been discovered inflammation in any animal can be deadly. The informational edge of the lesion is usually opaque or whitish. In advanced cases there may be some reddening or inflammation. The main threat from this fish disease is, if left untreated fin rot can slowly eat away the entire fin along with the fin rays and start to invade the fish’s body, leading to peduncle disease if the caudal (tail) fin is involved, or saddleback ulcer if the dorsal (top) fin is affected.

Koi Fin Rot
Fin rot is a bacterial disease involving opportunistic bacteria such as Aeromonas, Pseudomonas or Flexibacter that abound in all aquatic environments. Secondary fungal infections are not uncommon and can cause unremitting problems.  Fin rot is the easiest symptom to see.  The edges of the fins are ragged, torn and missing.  Often the areas where the rotting is occurring is red and inflamed with infection.  Left to run its coarse the fins can be eaten totally away leaving the fish unable to swim properly often causing death.

Sometimes fin rot is accompanied by fungus that feeds off the dead tissue left behind by the infection.  If the cause of the fin rot is taken away the fungus should go away on its own but we do have fungus medications that can relieve the symptom quicker.

A severe infection of the caudal fin of a koi; there is extensive inflammation around the lesion extending into the body of the fish. This fish recovered and surprisingly the fin did partially re-grow, with the two halves knitting back together


Leading Edge of the Lesion 
Typical fin rot affecting the dorsal fin of a koi. On the leading edge of the lesion is an area of white necrotic tissue. Surrounding this is a large area of inflamed, infected tissue. The front fin ray has been exposed and destroyed. The infection has reached the fish's body

A extreme example of fin rot of the caudal fin. The white necrotic region of the fin edge is clearly visible. The whole of the fin is very red and inflamed. The infection has entered the body of the fish resulting in raised scales

 

Fin Rot Is Usually Caused By Sustained Stress

With very few exceptions, virtually all cases are precipitated by sustained stress, fear or poor water conditions and quality. In my opinion curing fin rot; you should change 1/3 of your aquarium water and add fresh water and aquarium salt. Directions are the aquarium salt bag or box in 3 day you will remove 1/3 of your tank water add fresh water and aquarium salt you will repeat this process for 2 weeks. Aquarium salt is a natural healing agent for fish.
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Wednesday, January 4, 2012

South America Cichlids-apistos

Apistos South American Dwarf Cichlid


A Male Apistogramma cacatuoides there is a German dwarf cichlid researcher Dr. Uwe Romer has found by studying apisto populations in the wild that these little fish live in a fairly crowded environment; with perhaps as many as a thousand fish in an area of nine square meters, with leaf litter up to one meter thick on the bottom. You can’t duplicate these conditions in a small aquarium, but you can in a large one he recommends keep your fish in tanks from no less than 40 gallon or 152 liters to 150 gallon or 658 liters aquariums

Large tanks provide many advantages; they are easier to maintain the proper pH and hardness. It is also easier to control the effects of ammonia and nitrites. Lastly, you will see the fish act in a way that more closely resembles their behavior in the wild. As an example, many as 125 of A. juruensis living in a 40 gallon aquarium and around 500 of A. cacatuoides living and doing well in a 150 gallon aquarium.



Of course, to have this many fish in a tank it must have the correct environment. To achieve this in one of two ways your aquariums have either lots of cured drift wood, rocks (i.e. granite) and live plants or live plants, cured driftwood, river rocks and leaf litter can be moss balls. Follow the usual precautions with the wood and rocks make sure they are clean (sterilizing is always required) and with rocks, (never use) use just any type of rocks that will alter the chemistry of your tank water like rocks with limestone in them use sterilized river rock or granite this requires boiling them and then placing them in large bucket of clean water for several days pour off the old water and rinse them daily add new clean water.

There are hundred of aquatic plants that can be used like Anubias- Sword plants are a good choice for the new hobbyist; since they tend to grow quite well even in less than optimal conditions. Dwarf Hairgrass. Pygmy Chain Swords, Indian Fern, Java Fern, Water Sprite, Moss Balls, Lilaeopsis brasiliensis and Dwarf Hairgrass. For spawning caves, very small plastic seeding planting pots or small ceramic pots they are available in most nurseries. They are cheaper than other sold in aquarium shops and you can get them in green which blend in with their environment. As often as not, though, the fish will spawn on a rock or log or plant leaves; but put the caves in the fish really like them caves make them feel safe and secure.

Water

The most important component for apisto aquarium is the water. There are three things about the water MUST be accurate;
1.      Hardness,
2.      pH,
3.      Cleanliness.

Is your water not quite good enough for apistos without any conditioning at all (100ppm hardness and a pH of 6.5 and run it through an R.O. (Reverse Osmosis) filter. Ion exchange is OK but if you are still not satisfied recharge them and run through again you probably won’t wear out the membrane in the R.O. filter.

The pH level in an aquarium is a measure of the tank's acidity. Most fish do best with a pH ranging from 6.5 to 7.5, but many aquarium keepers have difficulty maintaining these levels. With careful tank management, however, you can maintain the pH at a healthy level.
   
Tips & Warnings

  1. Fish can thrive in a range of pH levels. Most will do well a full point above or below their recommended "ideal." You should only use chemical pH-altering substances if the pH is several numbers away from where it should be.

  1. If you have difficulty regulating the pH in your aquarium, you may have either hard or soft water. Consider buying fish that naturally thrive in the pH level of your water.

  1. Rapid changes in pH can be dangerous to fish. If your aquarium pH is off, avoid rapidly changing it. Huge alterations in pH are far more likely to kill your fish than an incorrect pH.

Lights & Live Plants



Lights should be dim this can be attained through Ceratophyllum which floats on top of water;Hornwort is a very common feathery leaved aquarium plant that will grow well in many aquariums. Hornwort also stands up to many fish that may have tendencies to include salads in their diets.

Hornwort is unique in that it will never develop roots. You can put the plant in bunches in the back of your tank and it can look nice that way but the plant will roots just won’t ever form and if you try to place any part of hornwort under the substrate, that portion will die. 

Hornwort can grow under lower and higher light levels. In lower light it will be brighter green and thinner. In higher light the plant gets bushier and can get red tints particularly in the stem. In fact hornwort is usually very easy to grow in the aquarium and pretty much anywhere else. Though a native of North America, this plant has been introduced in many parts of the world where it’s become a problematic weed. 

The Ceratophy llaceae have their own family and its relationship to other plants is still undetermined. They seem to be confusing plants for botanists, the number of different species isn’t certain either. Earlier sources argued at 1 or 2, newer sources list 6 or 7; but over 30 have been described, though many of those are almost certainly the same highly variable plants. 

Although there are some very competent apisto keepers who use straight R.O. water for their fish, mix with tap water to achieve a desired hardness of 10ppm. Next I treat the water with Sodium Bisulfate to bring the pH down to 4.5. Also use peat in filters as well as leaves (either Oak or Birch) to bring the pH down. However, I have found that the peat and the leaves don’t get the pH as low as I like, so I supplement with Sodium Bisulfate. I like to A Female Apistogramma cacatuoides.end up with a pH of 5.0 to 5.5 for most of my fish. However, the fish in the A. pertensis and A. iniridae complex seem to like it lower, around 4.5 pH.

Water cleanliness means three things: filtration, water changes, and feeding. I prefer biological filters. Most aquarium manufacturers sponge filter media just don’t have enough surface area to keep my apisto tanks clean, or they require too much maintenance if you have a lot of tanks.

The filters I use are made up of glass partitions that separate one part of the tank from the rest and essentially turning in into a trickle filter. Next I mix peat into the bottom half layer of rock. Water changes are done once every week to nine days with my conditioned R.O. water resulting in the tanks staying nice and clean.

Feeding




The feeding part of the equation is simple. I feed only live baby brine shrimp twice a day and only as much as they can eat in five minutes or so. I know some apisto keepers who practically count the number of shrimp they put in the tank, but it is actually very important not to over feed because uneaten live shrimp breaks down quickly and apistos are very susceptible to bacterial infections caused by dirty water.

Species

Now that you have some idea as to the keeping of apistos some species of apisto are a bit more forgiving than others. Apistogramma cacatuoides, A. steindachneri, A. macmasteri, and A. sp. Schwarzsaum are all good fish for beginners. However, if given the right aquarium conditions, most apistos will adjust adequately to the aquarium environment.
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